New-To-Me "H"

[AgTires4295]

Hey all! I haven't been here in awhile but wanted to check back in and gather as much as I can about this 1947 H that the wife just bought me.

Here's the background:

This '47 H has been sitting for several years on a farm, owned by a widow. The widow apparently died and the family sold everything, leading her to the purchase. It's evident that it sat for several years as the gas was old, rusty, deep yellow, etc. It ran when purchased but upon bringing it home, I noticed the water pump was leaking and there was TONS of rust in the fuel bowl, causing it to start, sputter, die.

So far I've done the following:

-Had a new/used rim replace the old rusted out rim in the right/rear.
-New exhaust manifold (original manifold had huge holes in the upper elbows)
-New water pump.
-New belts
-New fuel bowl
-Rebuilt carburator

As many times as the tank has been cleaned out (dismantled from tractor, beaten around, filled with nuts/bolts, beaten around again, emptied, repeat, repeat, etc.), it will forever pour rust it seems. I can't get it all out.

The tractor runs and drives well now except when full throttle. It's choking for fuel seemingly and I can't figure out how to manipulate the carb for the best results. There isnt any rust getting to the carb as I've installed an in-line filter (which has been replaced at least 5x now). Is there a diagram somewhere that I'm not seeing that illustrates the carb?

Also, the front wheels are a little wobbly. Just curious as to what is acceptable and not (everything appears tight).

Looking forward to getting responses.

[Urbish]

You could have a flake of rust blocking the fuel outlet from the tank. Pull the fuel line off at the carb and check for flow. If it is slow or non-existent, remove the fuel bowl and see if it runs out of there. If not, you're clogged at the outlet.

Either way, I recommend removing the tank and cleaning/sealing it. Lots of posts on here on that topic if you search for "tank sealer". I used POR-15 on my H's gas tank about 6 years ago and it worked great. No more rust, no more blocked fuel flow, no more frustration.

[Stanton]

Congrats on the H.

First of all, your wife is a very special person to buy you a tractor (I speak from experience).

Secondly, the advice on lining the gas tank may be your best course of action to prevent rust. If you've tried all the things you've mentioned, you might not have any other option.

I noticed after I adjusted the carb this last time, my H is running smooth on lower RPMs, but wants to surge at higher throttle. I believe the float is suspect; starving gas flow. Need to adjust it to allow more gas into the carb. You can use a brass fitting that accepts a plastic tube at the drain plug on the carb, mark the tubing with a couple inch marks at 1/8" intervals, then place it alongside the carb to measure the gas level. Consult your Owner's Manual and/or Serivce Manual for dimensions pertaining to your carb type. You can check around on here or do a general search on the internet.

[AgTires4295]

You could have a flake of rust blocking the fuel outlet from the tank. Pull the fuel line off at the carb and check for flow. If it is slow or non-existent, remove the fuel bowl and see if it runs out of there. If not, you're clogged at the outlet.

Either way, I recommend removing the tank and cleaning/sealing it. Lots of posts on here on that topic if you search for "tank sealer". I used POR-15 on my H's gas tank about 6 years ago and it worked great. No more rust, no more blocked fuel flow, no more frustration.

Congrats on the H.

Thanks! I have great flow to the carb as long as no large flakes block anything (haven't had one of those in a few days). I'll consider the POR-15. I hadn't thought of that and have a lot of question on how that works but I should be able to search for that.

First of all, your wife is a very special person to buy you a tractor (I speak from experience).

Secondly, the advice on lining the gas tank may be your best course of action to prevent rust. If you've tried all the things you've mentioned, you might not have any other option.

I noticed after I adjusted the carb this last time, my H is running smooth on lower RPMs, but wants to surge at higher throttle. I believe the float is suspect; starving gas flow. Need to adjust it to allow more gas into the carb. You can use a brass fitting that accepts a plastic tube at the drain plug on the carb, mark the tubing with a couple inch marks at 1/8" intervals, then place it alongside the carb to measure the gas level. Consult your Owner's Manual and/or Serivce Manual for dimensions pertaining to your carb type. You can check around on here or do a general search on the internet.

Thanks for the comment about the wife (I think I lucked out). She's a stay-at-home who tends to the kids and animals so she has no income. She had been saving for awhile in doing little side jobs on the internet, making nothing. I was thoroughly surprised when it happened. I'll have to see about digging deeper and finding a graphic on adjusting the carb because I have no clue between the multiple screws (not as easy as the CUB). I'm wondering if I have to adjust the float. Definitely worth a shot and look forward to tinkering with it to see if that's the culprit.

Any ideas on the front wobbling? I know the rims are ever so slightly bent and it looks almost comical from the driver's view. It's not noticeable from any other angles but is there anything to consider in the front wheels aside from the rims? I haven't taken one minute to examine the front end to see if there's anything to adjust. As always, I'm stuck at work and just had a moment to check in.

[Scrivet]

Is the inline fuel filter for a gravity flow system? If not you might be self inflicting a fuel starvation problem.

[Stanton]

Is the inline fuel filter for a gravity flow system? If not you might be self inflicting a fuel starvation problem.

Agree with Scrivet. The IH gravity fuel system was designed for an in-tank screen (at top of fuel bowl), a screen in the fuel bowl, and one at the carb inlet. Just screens, no filters.

Here is some info and NAPA numbers I have:
• Breaker point gap: .013”
• Spark plug gap: .025”
• Spark plug type: Autolite 3116
• Condenser: P/N 373892R1 or Napa # IH201
• Points: P/N 353171R91 or Napa # CS1601
• Rotor Napa # IH301
• Distributor Cap: 47413DX, Napa # IH351
• Coil: 361 114 R1 or Napa # IH1851

Do you have the Owner's Manual for the H?

[AgTires4295]

As far as I know it's for a gravity flow. I took the fuel bowl screen out to minimize restriction since the in-line filter ultimately filters everything. It flows really well into the carb so there's little to no issue there. I wonder if I can take the small screen out to the carb inlet to assist with flow. Thanks for the codes! I'll easily be able to refer back to them when needed.

I'll post photos eventually but does anyone have a clue why there would be random welds on the underside of the gearbox?? I know there's likely no way of knowing without seeing the pattern. Wondering if a previous owner ran over or struck something. The welds are embarrassing and I JUST noticed them for the first time. I am wanting to pull with this tractor but feel hesitant, wondering if the rear has been tampered with or weakened in some way.

[AgTires4295]

[Jim Becker]

Axle bearing blew out and the loose balls got between the bull gear and the housing. I see they managed to mess up both sides.

[AgTires4295]

Geeze. Okay so from what we're seeing here, is it anyone's opinion that the structural integrity is gone for tractor pulls? Those welds look horrible. No idea on the history of the rear.

[Jim Becker]

Not a particularly unusual place to see welds, at least on the M series. No firsthand experience, but I get the impression it generally isn't considered a structural problem.

[AgTires4295]

Forgot to post a photo of the whole tractor (probably should have done that in the beginning). I'm not sure why the photo transfers with the nose cut off when it clearly shows on Photobucket the entire tractor as I took the photo.

[Bob McCarty]

I can see the whole tractor with the exception of 2-3 inches of the front tires.

Bob

[AgTires4295]

Must be the device I'm using. Well can someone explain why the one wheel is pulled tightly toward the center vs the other? I'm going to be committed to other projects for about 30 minutes or so before I start taking the hub apart. The one DOES feel loose afterall when placing each tire up separately. What would cause this? Wear/tear and or age? Hoping I when I go in, I dont see shot bearings or worse...

[Denny Clayton]

One wheel is mounted turned in, the other turned out. Or possibly they are not matched rims.