check it out before.....

Farmall H, HV & Super H, 300 & 350, 1939-1958
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John *.?-!.* cub owner
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check it out before.....

Postby John *.?-!.* cub owner » Thu Jun 15, 2017 11:02 am

Thanks to members of this forum I have my father's Farmall H he farmed with for 45 years, I learned to drive on, etc. I only drive it once a year for our Moses Austin Festival (yes, the same Moses Austin that founded Austin Texas founded Potosi before Austin, Texas). I keep a battery maintainer on it, and start it along with my stand by generators and run them all for about 30 minutes once a month, so I do not worry about whether it will start. The governor has been turned up a little and it will run 20mph, and is equipped with an SMV marker, and I add a rear mount strobe light and drive it the 5 miles to town, in the parade, and after all the festivities, drive it back home. Being a person that does NOT like surprises, I always get it out a couple days early and drive it around locally some before the trip. Yesterday I drove it up the county road to the highway, back down to the farm we used to own, down the hill and across the creek and a ways up into a field on the other side of the creek. When I gave the steering wheel a spin to turn around, it just kept going straight ahead. :x

The steering shaft going into the hood was turning, and the only tools I had with me were my Gerber multiplier, so I unlocked the brakes and headed for home using the brakes to steer. Of course I used 2nd gear for a while , through the creek, across the rocky creek bed, and up the road that is cut into the side of the hill. Once I got back to the road I used 4th (stayed out of 5th), but still kept the throttle low, I wanted to have time to correct in case a front wheel hit a rock and decided to go a different direction. It took a while, but all went well, and made it home and into the shed with no problems. Aftet it cooled I pulled the hood and found the Woodruff key where the universal couples the rear half and front half of the steering shaft had come out. I loosened the collars at the steering wheel support, put the key back and slid the shaft further forward so the key would not come out quite so easily and clamped everything back together and was ready to go again.
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Re: check it out before.....

Postby Eugene » Thu Jun 15, 2017 11:31 am

John: You lucked out on the repair and not having the tractor in the ditch.
I have an excuse. CRS.

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Re: check it out before.....

Postby T-Mo » Thu Jun 15, 2017 11:55 am

That must have been an interesting trip, for sure. I always enjoy trips without incident, myself.

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Re: check it out before.....

Postby Mr E » Thu Jun 15, 2017 10:00 pm

Er, John, how did you turn the governor up?
In the middle of every difficulty lies opportunity. - Albert Einstein

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John *.?-!.* cub owner
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Tractors Owned: 47, 48, 49 cub plus Wagner loader & other attachments. 41 Farmall H.
Location: Mo, Potosi

Re: check it out before.....

Postby John *.?-!.* cub owner » Fri Jun 16, 2017 10:10 am

In the small box above the governor where the shaft going to the carburetor connects is a clevis. By moving that clevis up and down on the threaded part of the rod you can adjust the rpm quite a bit. don't get too carried away though, most of the old H tractors have a lot of wear in the steering and at full throttle in 5th it can get interesting. The steering on mine has been rebuilt and is in pretty good shape, and since it does not carry a load on the front anymore I keep my front tires at minimum pressure, with one a couple pounds lower than the other to reduce tendency to shimmy. In my case I keep the right one a little low. That gives it a slight tendency to pull to the right if you tunr loose of the wheel, but I figured that was better than pulling towards the left and oncoming traffic.
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Re: check it out before.....

Postby Jim Becker » Sun Jun 18, 2017 6:55 pm

John *.?-!.* cub owner wrote:In the small box above the governor where the shaft going to the carburetor connects is a clevis. By moving that clevis up and down on the threaded part of the rod . . .

No, that isn't the way to do it. Changing the position of the linkage inside the small box is the same as changing the length of the rod between the governor and the carburetor on a Cub. The high speed adjustment is found by removing the cover from the side of the governor. The upper bolt with the jam nut in the low idle speed adjustment. The lower one adjusts the maximum engine speed. Adjustment procedure is spelled out in IH-8, which should be in the manuals accessible at the top of this page.

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John *.?-!.* cub owner
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Posts: 23701
Joined: Sun Feb 02, 2003 2:09 pm
Zip Code: 63664
Tractors Owned: 47, 48, 49 cub plus Wagner loader & other attachments. 41 Farmall H.
Location: Mo, Potosi

Re: check it out before.....

Postby John *.?-!.* cub owner » Sun Jun 18, 2017 9:26 pm

Thanks Jim , it has been several years since that one was done, and my memory is not worth a ?? What was I going to say, I forgot. Had to replace that clevis due to it being broken a year or two ago, and I guess that is why it came to my mind.
If you are not part of the solution,
you are part of the problem!!!


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