Block Clean Up

[arlen]

So I've finally got my engine stripped down to the block. What's a good way to get it all cleaned up? There is probably a gallon of heavy sludge in the cooling passages (more like caverns)!
Do I just wash it in hot water and use a degreaser and brush? Do I use a wire brush to clean up the sleeve O-ring grooves?
I thought about taking it off the engine stand, putting it on a pallet, and taking it to a car wash, but that seems like a bother.

[Eugene]

Dip tank at machine shop.

[Bill Hudson]

Dip tank at machine shop.

You betcha. Just my opinion, worth what you paid for it.

Bill

[ricky racer]

Dip tank at machine shop.

[SamsFarm]

Around here they call it hot tanking.

If I remember right, usually as part of the service, they magnaflux and check for cracks too.

Been a long time since I had anything hot tanked!

[Gary Dotson]

Most shops don't use hot tanks, anymore. They now use a cabinet that the block, or whatever is being cleaned, is set in on a grate. The cabinet is closed up and cleaning cycle is started. With OSHA restrictions being ever stricter, they now use water based solvents sprayed hot and at high pressure to get the job done. I too think it's money well spent to have a shop do that for you.

[tst]

Yes Gary, same in my area, the old hot tank worked great but the Feds made it expensive to get rid of the used chemicals so most have done away with it

[arlen]

I will ask around here for a place. I’ve heard it’s about 100 bucks to get it done. Kind of a pain to haul it there, but it would also be a pain to clean it up myself! Would most of those processes take off what paint is left? My wife doesn’t want it repainted, and likes the look of rusty metal and faded paint.

[SamsFarm]

Wow.......

100 bucks seems expensive to clean 1 block! I hope thats not the case!

I used to have access to a decent sized sonic cleaning tank that was heated too.

We used crystal cleaner by simple green in it with tap water.

I remember doing a Farmall BN pto / belt pulley in it, and was surprised how well it worked, not only did it take the gunk off, but much of the paint also!

[Gary Dotson]

I think the last one I had done was $100 for the cleaning portion of the bill. Keep in mind, though, that generally includes removing and replacing any plugs and such. There's nothing like starting the build-up process with a nice, clean hunk of iron.
One thing I would like to stress is the importance of properly cleaning the o-ring grooves at the lower end where the sleeves register. They will generally have rust scale build-up in them and it absolutely must be removed. Use some sort of small scraper to remove the big stuff, then folded sand paper, 80 grit, followed by 180 grit til you have nice clean, smooth grooves. Use a good slippery assembly lube when installing the new sleeves and they should push in without a lot of effort. If they are very difficult, refer back to the instructions above.

[arlen]

For now, I decided to start cleaning up the gasket surfaces, and the sleeve seal seal grooves. I’m also chasing all of the threaded holes. It’s too cold to want to haul it anywhere right now. I might just power wash it when it warms up and see how it turns out, then I can always haul it somewhere if I’m not happy with it.

[ricky racer]

Make sure you pull out all of the cross port plugs and get the oil passages clean too! Don't forget to reinstall the plugs once everything is clean!!!

[Eugene]

Wow...100 bucks seems expensive to clean 1 block! I hope thats not the case!

The local shop rates are more than $100- per hour. And this is in rural Missouri.

Rifle bore brush and clean out the oil gallery. The ones you can get to. You won't be able to scrub all of them.

My opinion, again. Commercial block cleaning is well worth the cost.

[arlen]

Wow...100 bucks seems expensive to clean 1 block! I hope thats not the case!

The local shop rates are more than $100- per hour. And this is in rural Missouri.

Rifle bore brush and clean out the oil gallery. The ones you can get to. You won't be able to scrub all of them.

My opinion, again. Commercial block cleaning is well worth the cost.

I might still do it, but my obstacle now is I talked to a couple guys here locally that do allot of engine work on antique tractors, and neither one was satisfied with the results. I’m guessing it’s a change in chemicals.
So I Figured I would just get started on the intricate cleaning of the grooves and gasket surfaces, and keep asking questions and try to find it decent spot to get it done.

[SamsFarm]

Get yourself a metal 55 gallon drum, 3 or 4 cement blocks, a turkey fryer burner with propane, a pint of crystal cleaner from simple green and some clean rain water!

Make shift hot tank!

Keep the fire going in the simmer range!

Crystal cleaner is pretty safe. Non toxic if I remember right!

(If the block would fit, that is!) I have not checked yet!