Splitting a B (Sort Of) - Need guidance

[Urbish]

I'm planning to replace the 3rd and 4th gear pairs on my B this winter as mine are badly chipped and worn. I ordered good used gears from Rusty Acres Ranch. Can anyone share the proper way to support the front and rear halves to facilitate transmission removal? I've never split a tricycle tractor before.

Note that I flushed this transmission out with kerosene last year when I discovered the extent of the wear. Magnet fishing yielded about a tablespoon or two of metal chunks and filings. All of the oil troughs and passages to the bearings were plugged with debris. I suspect that once I get this out on the bench, I'll end up doing a complete rebuild as it was clear the bearings weren't getting much lubrication.

Jim

[AL Farmall Boy]

should be "easier" than a Cub or A since there is no axle for the weight to pivot on. I would bolt a splitting stand/jack to the implement mounting holes like you would a Cub to support the back of the front half. If you have an overhead hoist, that is the best. For the rear jackstands should work.

[AL Farmall Boy]

Post your journey of the transmission rebuild on here for others to enjoy and benefit from!

[Urbish]

should be "easier" than a Cub or A since there is no axle for the weight to pivot on. I would bolt a splitting stand/jack to the implement mounting holes like you would a Cub to support the back of the front half. If you have an overhead hoist, that is the best. For the rear jackstands should work.

The problem is that since there's no wide front axle, there's nothing to keep it from tipping over. I repurposed my wooden splitting stands from my Cub to use on this. I added a long 2x4 on edge underneath and some triangulating braces. I used heavy cabinet screws for attaching all since drywall screws and construction screws are prone to shearing.

At this point, I tested my rig by lowering the jack stands out at the finals by two notches each, and then lowered the floor jack to see how the tractor was balanced. The front wheels started to unload and I was sure they would come off the ground. So I jacked it back up and set my stands so that the front wheels, splitting stand, and jack stands were all sharing some of the load.

I carefully removed the rear axle extensions & final drives with a cherry picker while fully supporting them as well as the transmission so I wouldn't overload my janky splitting stand and nothing sudden could happen. Once the extensions and final drives were off, I lowered the floor jack under the transmission and all was well. I grabbed hold of the hood and tried to wiggle it side to side and the whole setup is very stable.

I then used the cherry picker to support the transmission and remove it from the clutch housing. All is well and the partially disassembled transmission is on the bench for the next steps. I will detail my findings there in another thread (http://farmallcub.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?f=177&t=99798).

Note that you cannot remove the left side final drive without taking the axle extension with it. The brake drum is on the transmission side of the extension and prevents disassembly in parts. I ended up taking both finals and extensions off without separating them from each other first.

Jim