Purchased my first Farmall M 1944

[MacGyver33]

Hello all, new member here.
I've just been inspired by a long topic on restoring an M just like mine. I've been working on a 1975 IH 3400a backhoe and now I'm going to have a go at the Farmall M. Just purchased a 1944 model. Starts and run nicely. Gears all seem good. It's been updated to 12v and alternator. A few leaks here and there. I will need some grease in a few spots.
Issues:
Rear PTO has a lot of muck around it. I'll pressure wash it off first. Is it a big deal to seal that up?
Hydraulic lift cylinder for the 3point hitch was bleeding out the top until I lowered it all the way down. Normal??
Some play in the steering. Any way to tighten that up short of shaft and gear replacement?
Left brake pedal moves when the clutch is pressed, could just be friction as the share the same pivot pin.
Clutch seems very heavy. I'm hoping it just needs some lubrication.

I'll start by changing the major fluids, new plugs and radiator hoses. Any other thing I should look for would be most welcomed.

[Matt Kirsch]

The PTO is likely leaking around the shaft. That seal can be replaced without removing anything from the tractor, but it can be challenging to get the old seal out especially if it has not been replaced before. It is a double-thick leather seal originally. The new seal will be a single-thickness modern lip seal. Just install it flush with the outside of the housing.

The leaking hydraulic cylinder is clearly not normal. It also needs a new seal, provided the rod is not scored or pitted. If the rod is scored or pitted, a new seal will not last long. The cylinder should be replaced in that case. It is a standard 8" stroke cylinder. BTW, the 3pt is aftermarket.

Steering play is a combination of several things in the front end being worn. Bushings, shafts, gears. New shafts and gears are extremely expensive and not worth it, as they will not fix the problem. Gear wear is usually only a minor contributor to steering play, and there is a trick of grinding and shimming the front steering shaft bearing to the left .030" to take up gear slop.

All three pedals are mounted on the same shaft. The clutch should pivot on the shaft, the left brake pedal should actually turn the shaft, and the right brake pedal should again pivot on the shaft. The shaft and pedals are certainly worn egg-shaped, and the clutch pedal is binding on the shaft. You might be able to improve function by removing the clutch pedal and doing some cleaning and smoothing work on the shaft and in the pedal hole. If it's bad enough you would need to have the pedal machined and a bushing installed, and either replace the shaft with new or have a machine shop build it back up and turn it round again.

On the clutch, it depends on what you consider heavy. Compared to larger tractors it is very light. Compared to smaller tractors it can seem heavy.

[MacGyver33]

Thanks for the tips. I oiled a lot of places and pumped all the grease fittings. She seems happier. The clutch has eased up (or my knee is getting stronger).
I've changed the engine oil and added plugs, wires and distributor cap. Topped up all the other fluids. I did a quick pressure test on the cylinders and they all topped 100psi. It starts easily and has plenty of power running a 6' brush-hog mower. I have discovered a couple of radiator leaks so I'll have to take that out and to a shop to be fixed.
It's great to drive. I have the single front tire.

[Scrivet]

If the M radiator is mounted like an H radiator you may decide the leaks aren't so bad after all. It's not the easiest thing to remove. 100 psi sounds pretty good to me. Not a fan of the single fronts, but then I've only seen a few at tractor shows, never used one.

[MacGyver33]

I've noticed that the hydraulic cylinder only leaks when it is fully extended??
Also my PTO seems to have a mind of its own. It disengages at random intervals. I've added a PTO overrun clutch so the mower doesn't drive me forward when the clutch is in. Could thus have something to do with it??

[Scrivet]

If it's a modern two way cylinder used as a one way cylinder (hydraulics up and weight of the implement forces it back) and most likely is on a M there's usually a breather vent that would be the return stroke hose on a two way system. If the cylinder piston cups leak a little and fluid gets past them, when you extend the cylinder the only place the fluid can go is out the breather.

Overrunning clutch properly installed should have no affect on PTO operation. Where do you notice the disengagement? Asked another way, what's turning and what's not when it "disengages". PTO on tractor is but shaft to cutter isn't? PTO drive shaft is but blades aren't? By the way does it have a slip clutch? Slip Clutch is different from an overunning clutch. A slip clutch is usually installed on the front of the gearbox. It allows the tractor PTO and drive shaft to keep spinning even though you ran over a stump and stopped the blades dead in their tracks. Adjusted incorrectly it could cause the blades to stop on heavy grass and weeds.

[LincTex]

Not a fan of the single fronts, but then I've only seen a few at tractor shows, never used one.

I have a Super C with a single front tire.

It steers so easy, you'd think the tractor had power steering!!