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Just bought my first USA cub cadet 124
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- 10+ Years
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These sure can get heavy when there not running....for sure...
My neighbors 123 quit running on sunday during a octoberfest/halloween party for the adults/children. They were pulling hay wagons with the ford 8n and cadet 123 besides horse and buggy rides too. They had plenty of food and drinks there and a big bonfire at the ending.
Ok on to more important things the 123 engine ran but the hydro had no pulling power at all. I finally looked at it today and the roll pin at the engines flywheel was missing so the engine was not driving the hydraulic pump at all. I tried to put in a new roll pin but the hole was messed up. I did get a 1/4" bolt to drive in while we order a new pin just to see if it runs ok. The 123 runs great now.
My neighbors 123 quit running on sunday during a octoberfest/halloween party for the adults/children. They were pulling hay wagons with the ford 8n and cadet 123 besides horse and buggy rides too. They had plenty of food and drinks there and a big bonfire at the ending.
Ok on to more important things the 123 engine ran but the hydro had no pulling power at all. I finally looked at it today and the roll pin at the engines flywheel was missing so the engine was not driving the hydraulic pump at all. I tried to put in a new roll pin but the hole was messed up. I did get a 1/4" bolt to drive in while we order a new pin just to see if it runs ok. The 123 runs great now.
I'm technically misunderstood at times i guess its been this way my whole life so why should it change now.
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BigBill,
Are you sure it is supposed to be a roll pin. I just replaced one on my 149 and it was a solid pin, not a rolled pin. A rolled pin would probably work though. Got it from the dealer. This is where the drive shaft meets the engine. The 123 is older, so maybe the older ones had a rolled pin.
Are you sure it is supposed to be a roll pin. I just replaced one on my 149 and it was a solid pin, not a rolled pin. A rolled pin would probably work though. Got it from the dealer. This is where the drive shaft meets the engine. The 123 is older, so maybe the older ones had a rolled pin.
Tractors in the stable: '62 560D Cub Cadets in the stable: 782D, 1572 SGT, 1772 SGT, 1782 SGT
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It is not recommended to use ether on a Kohler. Gas is all you need. If it has gas, spark, and compression, and all at the right time it will run. If one is missing, that needs to be fixed. The ether can damage the engine and can/will wash down the cylinder walls causing the loss of compression. From the discription of the spark at the plug, I would say the points need to be cleaned, because they will oxidize, even new ones, or the condenser may be bad or not have a good ground. If it starts and runs long enough to get warm before it quits, then the exhaust valve could be sticking, but that will normally cause it to stumble and or backfire before it quits. Point gap is .020 and plug gap is .025
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GILLES wrote:say what??? I dont see the conection whith the strarting of my 124
Sorry Gilles,
Didn't mean to get off the subject. As long as it is loaded, it doesn't have to be running. Then once you get her home, it will give you something to work on! A couple of guys can easily push these around. Good luck getting it running.
Tractors in the stable: '62 560D Cub Cadets in the stable: 782D, 1572 SGT, 1772 SGT, 1782 SGT
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Thanks Paul.. should I put some oil or marvel mystery oil in the plug hole?? BTW we met by the peanut/broom guy at RPRU, still chuckle about the trick that guy played!
I can't get it to run... and other than I can see the condenser, coil and the carb I really am only the messenger.
I could call the seller and ask for advise, but it would be tough to get it over there again in the daylight. (borrowed a ramp to get it off the truck, my ramp is 200 miles away).
It was sold as a running machine and I think the seller will make good on it one way or another.
I can't get it to run... and other than I can see the condenser, coil and the carb I really am only the messenger.
I could call the seller and ask for advise, but it would be tough to get it over there again in the daylight. (borrowed a ramp to get it off the truck, my ramp is 200 miles away).
It was sold as a running machine and I think the seller will make good on it one way or another.
1971 Cub (Rufus) 1950 Cub (Cathy) 1965 Lo Boy Fast Hitch (Nameless III) 1970 Cub 1000 Loader & Fast Hitch (Lee)
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Gilles and Gil:
Congrats on getting another mon amis To get it across the border, all Gil has to do is declare it as his and he is showing it to a friend etc... the fact that it won't be going back isn't germane at that point... once off the truck.. oh well.. nice to be here ain't it???
That is how a lot of stuff gets here safely. Also, it can be declared as a used parts tractor with low value.. say 50 to 100. No duty...
Most of the time stuff like that isn't even a problem. Art brought his Cub up and back easily. Larry you already know the Kroil story along with the C-2 and bed.....
Congrats on getting another mon amis To get it across the border, all Gil has to do is declare it as his and he is showing it to a friend etc... the fact that it won't be going back isn't germane at that point... once off the truck.. oh well.. nice to be here ain't it???
That is how a lot of stuff gets here safely. Also, it can be declared as a used parts tractor with low value.. say 50 to 100. No duty...
Most of the time stuff like that isn't even a problem. Art brought his Cub up and back easily. Larry you already know the Kroil story along with the C-2 and bed.....
Confusion breeds Discussion which breeds Knowledge which breeds Confidence which breeds Friendship
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Buzzard Wing
No, don't pour any oil in the plug hole. Until more is known about what is wrong, it may not be needed. MMO will clear up a stuck/sticking valve after it is running, but probably won't do much just pouring it in. I think I would leave it alone and just let Gilles find out what is wrong with it.
No, don't pour any oil in the plug hole. Until more is known about what is wrong, it may not be needed. MMO will clear up a stuck/sticking valve after it is running, but probably won't do much just pouring it in. I think I would leave it alone and just let Gilles find out what is wrong with it.
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BD, I would appreciate if you called the PO and let him know what's happening. So, I can refer to that later.
Thanks for trying. I know it's not easy to push, so thanks again.
I think Paul is right, it will be taken apart and rebuilt. So I will find out what's wrong with it once she's home.
Make sure to write on a paper what you did so far and how much I.O.U.
By the way, I did not want to hurt anybody's feeling by bringing things back to the issue. SORRY.
Thanks for trying. I know it's not easy to push, so thanks again.
I think Paul is right, it will be taken apart and rebuilt. So I will find out what's wrong with it once she's home.
Make sure to write on a paper what you did so far and how much I.O.U.
By the way, I did not want to hurt anybody's feeling by bringing things back to the issue. SORRY.
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I can push it around OK, but a Cub seems to be easier with ag tires. Sure wouldn't want to push it uphill too far!
I will give the guy a call tonight and see what he says.
One thing I thought was odd is that the fuel flows fine with the bowl off the strainer... but stops when you put it on?? I suppose it is OK cause it does fill up when you crank it. I suppose that means the float on the carb/needle works and the air has nowhere to go till you crank it?
I will give the guy a call tonight and see what he says.
One thing I thought was odd is that the fuel flows fine with the bowl off the strainer... but stops when you put it on?? I suppose it is OK cause it does fill up when you crank it. I suppose that means the float on the carb/needle works and the air has nowhere to go till you crank it?
1971 Cub (Rufus) 1950 Cub (Cathy) 1965 Lo Boy Fast Hitch (Nameless III) 1970 Cub 1000 Loader & Fast Hitch (Lee)
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Buzzard Wing,
Does the fuel flow at the carb with the bowl on? I remember once on an M, my Dad and I had a heck of a time getting the fuel to run into the glass fuel bowl. We loosened the bowl, and it poured out. We tightened it again, and no fuel. We took the line loose at the carb and loosened to fuel bowl again. The fuel now flowed to the carb. We had put on a new gasket at the fuel bowl. It had gotten air locked. You may have already tried, but pull off the line at the carb, then loosen the bowl and make sure you have fuel to the carb. The tank cap does have a vent hole, but loosen the cap also. Good luck.
Does the fuel flow at the carb with the bowl on? I remember once on an M, my Dad and I had a heck of a time getting the fuel to run into the glass fuel bowl. We loosened the bowl, and it poured out. We tightened it again, and no fuel. We took the line loose at the carb and loosened to fuel bowl again. The fuel now flowed to the carb. We had put on a new gasket at the fuel bowl. It had gotten air locked. You may have already tried, but pull off the line at the carb, then loosen the bowl and make sure you have fuel to the carb. The tank cap does have a vent hole, but loosen the cap also. Good luck.
Tractors in the stable: '62 560D Cub Cadets in the stable: 782D, 1572 SGT, 1772 SGT, 1782 SGT
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