Not much progress since the last post except that I have painted a bunch of small parts. The completed motor is sitting on my workbench right now, the tin is all back on, sanded and is ready to paint. Do I hit the motor with the Rustoleum, sandable primer too? That head looks so nice I really want to mask it off, but I know it came from the factory painted. Hit that with primer first too before the Federal Yellow? What do you suggest for the muffler? It has to look nice too if it is going to go back on.
One more question. Will regular teflon tape work when reinstalling the fuel sediment trap?
Thanks,
S.H.A.F.T.
127 Rebuild V
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127 Rebuild V
"Son, you can do it right, or you can do it again."
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If you're going to use the tape, get the petroleum resistant. The liquid is best.
Bigdog
If you can't fix it with a hammer, you've got an electrical problem.
My wife says I don't listen to her. - - - - - - - - Or something like that!

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If you can't fix it with a hammer, you've got an electrical problem.
My wife says I don't listen to her. - - - - - - - - Or something like that!

http://www.cubtug.com
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As far as Cub Cadets go, IH did not prime anything before it was painted, except for some of the early prototypes and test units. You will find a red "primer" on the cast iron parts, but it is really a sealer and not a primer. I paint engines without priming them (I prime the engine sheet metal), but if you want to prime it, do so, just keep in mind it is an air cooled engine and will cool better if it does not have a big build up of paint on the cooling fins. The muffler originally had a galvanized or plated finish. The current new replacements are painted black, but then so are new replacement engines. You can paint it with a high temp silver paint, but it may not stay on it. I use a white, liquid pipe dope, that contains teflon and is suitable for water/gas/oil pipe connections, rather than teflon tape, for sealing the sediment bowl connections. I find it seals better. It came from Lowes or Home Depot.
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