I recently purchased an original which needs some clutch rebuilding. I have all of the manuals and parts list but I am at a loss as to whether the fiber clutch disk is bonded to the rear Pressure plate or to the rear of the V belt pulley.
The fiber disk has been removed, or worn off and I cannot tell where the disk was bonded. Are these disks available for self bonding, and if so where can they be purchased. Can bulk fiber sheets be purchased and the disks be cut to size?
The rear pressure plate is NLA from IH according to the parts list.
Original Clutch
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Original Clutch
'50 Super A, '58 Cub, 1 Original Cub Cadet, 1 Model 70 Cub Cadet, 2 Model 100 Cub Cadets, 1 Model 105 Cub Cadet, 1 Model 2185 Cub Cadet, 1 Model 1864, and 2 small green ones.
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Th fiber clutch disc is bonded to both sides of the drive pulley, and was not very thick to start with, about 1/8". It is a fiber "ring" about 4-1/2" in diameter and an 1" or so wide, that is glued to the pulley faces. You can buy clutch lining from McMaster-Carr, http://www.mcmaster.com , in different widths by the foot , or by pre sized sheets. It can be bonded with Liquid nails or epoxy. Look on page 3254 or under Raw Materials & Springs, and then under Brake & Clutch Lining.
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- 10+ Years
- Posts: 51
- Joined: Tue Mar 04, 2003 7:23 pm
- Zip Code: 21222
- eBay ID: YEVCM
- Circle of Safety: Y
- Location: South Eastern Baltimore County, Maryland 21222/South East York County, Pennsylvania 17314
Thanks for the info Paul. I found exactly what I needed and the order is on its way
My rear pressure plate was rusted fast to the V belt pulley and the clutch wouldnt disengage. There was no evidence of fiber at all and this was my first experience with a clutch of this type.
Thanks also for the info about bonding. I had read that brake linings were being bonded with Liquid nails so based on your coaching, I'll use it for the clutch also.
Mac
My rear pressure plate was rusted fast to the V belt pulley and the clutch wouldnt disengage. There was no evidence of fiber at all and this was my first experience with a clutch of this type.
Thanks also for the info about bonding. I had read that brake linings were being bonded with Liquid nails so based on your coaching, I'll use it for the clutch also.
Mac
'50 Super A, '58 Cub, 1 Original Cub Cadet, 1 Model 70 Cub Cadet, 2 Model 100 Cub Cadets, 1 Model 105 Cub Cadet, 1 Model 2185 Cub Cadet, 1 Model 1864, and 2 small green ones.
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- 10+ Years
- Posts: 2338
- Joined: Sat Apr 10, 2004 6:12 pm
- Zip Code: 40218
- Circle of Safety: Y
- Location: KY, Louisville
The problem of the pressure plates, front and rear, rusting to the drive pulley is not at all uncommon on an Original. They can stick from setting out overnight in the dew. Clean them up good and you may find that the lining is still on the pulley. I have owned somewhere between 15-20 Originals, including a prototype, and have only seen one that the lining was messed up on, and that was because someone tried to glue a clutch disc from a later model on the pulley because the clutch was out of adjustment and was slipping.
While you have it all apart to replace the lining, reface both pressure plates, either by sanding or in a lathe, and check the driveshaft for wear in the area that the drive pulley spins on. They will wear under the pulley bushing and contribute to the clutch sticking problem. You can try to weld it up and turn it down, or replace the driveshaft (which is still available). Put a bit of white grease in this area when it goes back together, and with the pressure plates refaced, it should about stop the sticking clutch. Notice I said "about stop" it from sticking. I always park an original with the tractor out of gear and the clutch pedal locked down. And if it sets ahile between use, make sure the clutch/pressure plates are free before you start the tractor. If you start it and the plates are stuck, I can almost guarantee you will run it into something, when it starts, before you can get it stopped. BTDT
While you have it all apart to replace the lining, reface both pressure plates, either by sanding or in a lathe, and check the driveshaft for wear in the area that the drive pulley spins on. They will wear under the pulley bushing and contribute to the clutch sticking problem. You can try to weld it up and turn it down, or replace the driveshaft (which is still available). Put a bit of white grease in this area when it goes back together, and with the pressure plates refaced, it should about stop the sticking clutch. Notice I said "about stop" it from sticking. I always park an original with the tractor out of gear and the clutch pedal locked down. And if it sets ahile between use, make sure the clutch/pressure plates are free before you start the tractor. If you start it and the plates are stuck, I can almost guarantee you will run it into something, when it starts, before you can get it stopped. BTDT

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- 10+ Years
- Posts: 51
- Joined: Tue Mar 04, 2003 7:23 pm
- Zip Code: 21222
- eBay ID: YEVCM
- Circle of Safety: Y
- Location: South Eastern Baltimore County, Maryland 21222/South East York County, Pennsylvania 17314
Great service from McMaster - Carr. Ordered about 4 pm EST on Monday and UPS delivered to my door by 6 pm on Tuesday. What a class act.
'50 Super A, '58 Cub, 1 Original Cub Cadet, 1 Model 70 Cub Cadet, 2 Model 100 Cub Cadets, 1 Model 105 Cub Cadet, 1 Model 2185 Cub Cadet, 1 Model 1864, and 2 small green ones.
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