102 clutch reassembly order

[Chris Jones]

Is this the correct order to reassemble the clutch?
In specific is the washer in the picture supposed to go between the clutch plate and the teaser spring or where?

[Paul B]

The washers go on either end of the main (long) spring. The parts are installed on the shaft in the following order according to the manual : flat washer, loading (long) spring, flat washer, release bearing (long sleeve end forward), release lever (channel flanges toward rear) and the teaser spring. Then the coiled spring in the second hole from the front end of the shaft, rear pressure plate, clutch disc, front pressure plate with coiled pin. Lubricate the shaft area where the release bearing and teaser spring will be (that is the area that is worn in the shaft you pictured) and then compress the main spring and install the rear coiled pin.

[Chris Jones]

Paul, Thanks. It's been quite awhile since I disassembled it--I couldn't remember where the washer went. The bearing is new as the old one had gotten cut open by the release lever. But you know, until you mentioned it I never really thought about the shaft being worn. I'm not sure it'll be a problem but perhaps I can turning it end for end and drilling new holes for the pins. The release lever is worn as well. While it does catch both sides of the bearing it does bother me some because the hole is so big. I've put a few more pics at http://home.triad.rr.com/jonesc if you want to take a look and let me know what you think. (I will not put them in the msg this time to keep the msg loading fast).

Got to go get some sleep.

Thanks,
Chris

[Paul B]

Even though the clutch disc has been redrilled, it should work OK as long as there are not any cracks, but I would sand it a bit to flatten, or true it up, and to knock the glaze off. That is an original solid fiber disc. The new ones have a metal core with a fiber lining on both sides, and the holes don't wear/elongate as bad.

I would also try to find a better drive shaft and release lever, because both will cause you some problems. The lever will end up damaging the bearing, and the bearing cost more than the lever does. The worn shaft will cause the bearing to cock/twist on the shaft, and break the teaser spring, and that is probably what wore the hole in the lever out of shape, and damaged the original bearing. Both are available new if you can't find good used ones

[Dave (69 lo-boy)]

Check out Brian Miller's page on Cadet clutches, lots of good info and diagrams:
http://members.aol.com/pullingtractor/clutch.htm

['Country' Elliott]

WOW...I LOVE Brian's motorized Garden Tractor Sled !!! Hey "Cubfesters" CHECK THIS OUT!!!

[Chris Jones]

Paul the clutch disk isn't really what I was asking about. I was talking of the shaft being refreshed by turning it end for end putting the working on the other end. I also mentioned the hole in my release lever being worn.

But never mind that stuff now. I've gotten a piece of rod to make a new drive shaft from and I am going to get a new release lever and the yoke that the lever fits into.

But I see you did notice my fix for badly worn holes in the clutch disk. It does have a center metal layer. Should work just fine.

[beaconlight]

Don't want to sound like a party pooper but is that shaft hardened?

Bill