1974 Cub 154 Loboy no spark after installing 1442 electronic ignition

[boomer632]

Drove the 154 to the garage to do the install. This 154 is bone stock. Marked the distributor and block with sharpie. Marked the rotor position to the distributor with sharpie. Pulled distributor out and went to the bench. Removing the points and installing the module went really smooth. Installed the distributor and rotor back to the marks I made. Everything lined up as it was upon take down. Wire the black to the neg side of coil and red to positive side along with the switch wire that was there upon disassembly. Turn the key and no fire. Re check my marks all good. Pulled cap off and checked the rotor and magnet..all seated properly. Pull a plug and check for spark.. none. What am I missing here?
I did search the site for help but maybe someone may have had this issue. Got the module from hamiltonbobs
Thank in adavance for any help.

[outdoors4evr]

I can only guess, but the likely issue is the magnet not lined up with the hall sensor at TDC.
Also, make sure the power provided to the unit is 12v. If you had an external resistor, it must be in series with the coil, but not in series with the Pertronix.

[boomer632]

I can only guess, but the likely issue is the magnet not lined up with the hall sensor at TDC.
Also, make sure the power provided to the unit is 12v. If you had an external resistor, it must be in series with the coil, but not in series with the Pertronix.

When I installed the unit I didnt bother putting at TDC. I just marked the dist and rotor position and then pulled the dist. I put it back together in the exact position. Should I rotate motor to TDC on timing mark (compression stroke) and pull the dist again and make sure rotor is pointing at #1 on cap tower? I have 12v to the coil on red side. No resistor present.
The #1 plug hole is closest to the radiator.. then follow that to the cap tower and that will be #1 on dist cap?

[Jim Becker]

. . . Should I rotate motor to TDC on timing mark (compression stroke) and pull the dist again and make sure rotor is pointing at #1 on cap tower? . . .

Your current problem is no spark, not a timing problem. Don't start messing with the timing until you have solved the no spark problem. There is no value in turning what is probably only one problem into two problems.

[aparnell572]

Bad unit? Bad ground?

[Eugene]

Bad unit? Bad ground?

Perhaps a faulty installation. Double and tripple check your installation.

What was wrong with the original points and condenser? And why go to the expense and agrivation of an electronic ignition system?

[Larry B]

There should be the power wire and the red wire from the module on the + side if the coil. At key on do you have battery voltage at the terminal? The black wire from the module goes to the - side if the coil. Double check the rotor is seated properly and the plate the module is mounted on is grounded. Check voltage from ground to the - side of the coil with the black wire and crank the engine. Does voltage fluctuate? If so module is working. If not then either a bad module or something with the install.

[mozer71]

Awesome info. Really great minds and memory.
but we need go back to the basics. There was a reason the tried and true ignition didn't work.
JIm B's post above requires another read.
Everything following that is grand and engine candy to me. Really important procedures came from this one post. end, there is so much information and members assisting, there is no way that this problem isn't solved.

[outdoors4evr]

Many reasons for using electronic ignition. I have moved my 184 to a pertronix ignition.
a) reliability - Starts quickly every turn of the key.
b) removal of wear components that cause failure - Points failed while mowing. (adding to reliability)
c) power - dyno tests have shown that electronic ignition increases horsepower.

[Slim140]

Many reasons for using electronic ignition. I have moved my 184 to a pertronix ignition.
a) reliability - Starts quickly every turn of the key.
b) removal of wear components that cause failure - Points failed while mowing. (adding to reliability)
c) power - dyno tests have shown that electronic ignition increases horsepower.

How much HP does electronic ignition add to a Cub?

[BIGHOSS]

Rick Prentice might know the HP difference. At a Cubfest several years ago a before and after dyno test did show an increase in HP with no other changes.

I can personally attest that both my 1974 cub and my 3000 Ford start and run much better with electronic ignition.

[aparnell572]

I check the points once a year and it runs just fine

[wrink3]

I've had the electronic ignition on my 1984 for about 4 years now. Works like a champ! Only problem encountered was earlier this summer when tractor cut out a few times but always started back up...the center coil wire had vibrated loose over time. Pushed it in snugly and all is good in my world. Larry B is right on target--do a careful methodical check on everything you changed on the install and you'll probably find the problem.

[wrink3]

That should have read 184 not 1984--see how easy it is to make a little error!!!

[boomer632]

After scratching my head and pulling the dist in and out numerous times.. I decided to put the old point set back in. Touched the key and it fired right up and ran like a champ. I have determined that the most likely culprit is the module itself.
With that said.. I am going to return the part and get the Pertronix 1442 and 40611 coil. For those of you following this.. that coil is 3 OHM and has epoxy internal which is necessary for horizontally mounted coils such as in the 154's