IH 1050A loader leaking down

[SONNY]

I would suspect the control valves myself. I had an old IH loader on a 2504 that did the same thing. This thing was totally worn out. I needed the loader at the time, so I rigged a cross brand 2-way valve in place of the IH valve. Problem solved.---This could be your problem also.---If yours is that worn, it could need cylinder and valve work.
Check in your area for hydraulic cylinder builders. They can help.--We have one 20 miles away from here that makes new, or repairs old ones.--- Had them make a new rod for my Case 580 loader. thanks; sonny

[toehead]

These things are super easy to pull apart... about 5 mins to get off and apart! I used the piston as a slide hammer to pull out the gland as it is just in place with a snap ring, not threaded.

Looks like it is a 2" bore, O-ring piston seal with 2 PTFE backing rings.

[John *.?-!.* cub owner]

I'm for sure not extremely experienced with hydraulics, so I appreciate the feedback and I am certainly learning from you folks.


This cub has had a pretty hard life, and these loaders are as rare as hens teeth.
I am hoping that once I pull this thing apart it is a relatively standard bore, etc so that I can scrounge up the parts to repair.

Baum Hydraulics is a good place to go for parts and help. Once you have the lift pistons apart, call them and describe what you need and they will be of lots of help.

[toehead]

Thanks for the tip! I'll give them a go if nothing pops up locally.

It looks like the way to go with be to retrofit with a t-style piston seal (Edit: If I do this I need a wide gland t-seal since my o-ring already has 2 backup rings, looks like special order and $$). Looks to be about 6 bucks each, not bad at all. I've got a local Parker dealer and I'll see if they can order it all for me. While I am at it I will replace some of the hoses .. most have been replaced and are pretty good, but two are original and the braiding is showing.

Edit: Do you think it makes sense to replace the backup rings? If not, all the seals are o-rings in standard sizes.. I could buy enough on McMaster to rebuild all the cylinders for about 15$.

[toehead]

Took one of the lift cylinders apart: It looks to be exactly the same as far as seals and backing rings. The only difference appears to be the overall travel length of the cylinder. I should be able to rebuild all 4 with the same components.

I also found a damaged o-ring and backing ring on this lift cylinder, see below. This could't be helping the situation.


I'll take the seals to my local o-ring supply company and spec the all out. My measurements indicate that they are all standard dash sized o-rings. One i've confirmed fitment and tried them I will post a parts list.

My current thinking is that there is no need to upgrade to a t-seal when the current o-ring and backing rings have worked fine for 30 years. Tell me I am wrong if you disagree

[BigBill]

sounds like the valves need rebuilding. New o rings. I’d put new o rings in everything.

[outdoors4evr]

O-Rings are not expensive and have worked for many years. I see no reason to use another technology when this design may outlive me.

[toehead]

Agreed.

There is a local hydraulic place that I will be visiting on Thursday to buy the o-rings and backing rings. I've got all the orings already sized out and will let you know how it turns out.

[wagonmaster]

I would like to here more about how you did the power steering.

[toehead]

I really need to start a thread on this. I've got pictures and can likely make a quick summary. I's a highly recommended mod. I can steer with one finger !

[ibdilbert]

"I really need to start a thread on this. I've got pictures and can likely make a quick summary. I's a highly recommended mod. I can steer with one finger !"

I would love to see a thread on this, I'm getting ready to do the same conversion this winter on one of mine, would love to see in detail how you did yours.

[toehead]

viewtopic.php?f=31&t=102865

[toehead]

Quick update:

All is back together. I did end up upgrading to piston-style seals on pistons. All parts were about 20 USD/cylinder.


It seems to hold fine now (but I haven't tested under higher load as my ground is too soggy to drive on right now).

[toehead]

O-ring list:
326: Main piston o-ring: Needs 2 backing rings.
224: Gland to cylinder seal: Need one backing ring
215: Gland to rod seal: Needs one backing ring.
211: Rod to piston seal: No backing rings.

Confirmed that all cylinders use the same parts.

[BigBill]

Time to rebuild all the valves, clean and inspect the spools and install new o rings. And cylinders.

Do you have a 3pt hitch with a selector valve?