It might, and I thought about it, but figured it would be harder to mount than a ram .
The double ended hydraulic cylinder would work for sure, and even with the same orbital valve I am using.
I think this is a must for a FEL on one of these things. Using the FEL before this project was just frustrating.
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Power steering conversion: How-to guide
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- Zip Code: 01756
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Re: Power steering conversion: How-to guide
I hashed this around so much.
I want to use the double end ram. Attach the tie rods to the end of the shafts. Fab a new front axle. Using verticle thrust bearings and needle bearings on the king pins. New spindles with tapered roller bearing hubs.
A steering column with a egg shaped cam, between two cam followers, will pull the control valve in and out.
Make it the way it should be done.
I want to use the double end ram. Attach the tie rods to the end of the shafts. Fab a new front axle. Using verticle thrust bearings and needle bearings on the king pins. New spindles with tapered roller bearing hubs.
A steering column with a egg shaped cam, between two cam followers, will pull the control valve in and out.
Make it the way it should be done.
I'm technically misunderstood at times i guess its been this way my whole life so why should it change now.
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- Joined: Tue Apr 10, 2018 11:56 am
- Zip Code: 01756
Re: Power steering conversion: How-to guide
Looking forward to seeing it. I especially am interested in how you will do the wheel hubs and spindles.
The bearings in my hubs are toast (They were like that before the power steering ) I was debating on machining new bearing holders.
This guy replaced the ball bearings (with really poor thrust loading performance) with sleeve bearings. I think that would work really well but it makes it super critical to make sure it is well lubricated. Thoughts? Ideally you would go with tapered rollers though.
https://www.yesterdaystractors.com/cgi- ... th=1040949
Thoughts on the control valve: Doing it that way , I think, will make the rate of steering dependent on RPM and there won't be any force feedback into the wheel. Also, keeping the wheel in one position it will continue to steer since the control valve will be in a fixed position. Maybe I thinking about that incorrectly?
The orbital valves are a fixed fluid volume per revolution and already have force feedback. You get a repeatable number of wheel turns to go lock to lock.
The bearings in my hubs are toast (They were like that before the power steering ) I was debating on machining new bearing holders.
This guy replaced the ball bearings (with really poor thrust loading performance) with sleeve bearings. I think that would work really well but it makes it super critical to make sure it is well lubricated. Thoughts? Ideally you would go with tapered rollers though.
https://www.yesterdaystractors.com/cgi- ... th=1040949
Thoughts on the control valve: Doing it that way , I think, will make the rate of steering dependent on RPM and there won't be any force feedback into the wheel. Also, keeping the wheel in one position it will continue to steer since the control valve will be in a fixed position. Maybe I thinking about that incorrectly?
The orbital valves are a fixed fluid volume per revolution and already have force feedback. You get a repeatable number of wheel turns to go lock to lock.
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- 5+ Years
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- Joined: Tue Apr 10, 2018 11:56 am
- Zip Code: 01756
Re: Power steering conversion: How-to guide
I ordered some stock to make the new bearing holders and will give that a go. I'll comment back on bearing life once I get some hours on them .
Load capacity will be much higher than with the ball bearings but it will need regreasing much more often.
Load capacity will be much higher than with the ball bearings but it will need regreasing much more often.
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Re: Power steering conversion: How-to guide
Figure on installing zerk fittings on all moving parts were we can.
My health laid me up for years now it should be better soon. In a way I’m glad, more time to think about it.
My health laid me up for years now it should be better soon. In a way I’m glad, more time to think about it.
I'm technically misunderstood at times i guess its been this way my whole life so why should it change now.
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- 5+ Years
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- Joined: Tue Apr 10, 2018 11:56 am
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Re: Power steering conversion: How-to guide
Got a chance to finish my new hubs. I machined the spindle slightly undersize, created a center grease passage, and welded it all together.
One image below is a partially-welded example.
I hope these are a lot stronger than the wimpy stamped-steel ball bearings.
One image below is a partially-welded example.
I hope these are a lot stronger than the wimpy stamped-steel ball bearings.
Last edited by toehead on Sun Feb 03, 2019 8:12 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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- 5+ Years
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- Joined: Tue Apr 10, 2018 11:56 am
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Re: Power steering conversion: How-to guide
Grease passages work!
Wheels are on and spin nicely with no play.
I also replaced the pivot bushing while it was all apart.
Wheels are on and spin nicely with no play.
I also replaced the pivot bushing while it was all apart.
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