184 with loader

[fordyford]

My second PITA is a 184 with a FEL and a three point. Guess I'm a glutton for punishment.

What was the engineering thinking behind using this platform for a FEL? Almost impossible to steer at slow speeds with the bucket loaded. A small clutch that is the weak link in doing any bucket loading. And turf tires that spin with the least resistance.

Can anyone PLEASE help me with some experience so I can use this thing for something other than a lifting device? Thanks!

[Eugene]

They do make great lawn mowers.

[BigBill]

I disassembled one of my three int154’s to add a fel and backhoe. I found the orginal frame very weak. I got the two uprites and front subframe built. I double walled the front frame rails. There was missing verticle welds under the radiator frame. I guess so the frame would flex if the axle stops were hit. My plans are to tie in the finals to the 3pt hitch subframe. W quick disconnect for the backhoe and weight box. I have a complete creeper drive to add too. I think any power steering box should be adaptable with the pump.

The orginal 154 with a fel is probably better over the one arm cyclops fel on the fcub

I figured I can build what I want rather than spend $50k on a tractor loaded. I didn’t plan on getting sick.

[outdoors4evr]

You definitely have the wrong tires for this type of work.
Need AG tires on the rear (use 154 or cub rims and ctr's) (Chains and wheel spacers will work in a pinch)
Need skinny 3-rib tires on the front (Cub) to help with the steering.
Take a look at this brochure.


Toehead found a way to add power steering. Maybe something like this would help?
http://farmallcub.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?f=31&t=102865

As for the clutch, I think the first thing I'd do is replace and harden the end of the driveshaft. That way when the clutch goes, you are just replacing the clutch plate rather than the plate and the driveshaft. I don't really think the clutch is undersized for the tractor (It is only 18 horses). I haven't really ever had my clutch slip when engaged and pulling.
I definitely don't love the spline interaction between the clutch plate and the driveshaft. The splines seem to wear out well before the clutch material.

[fordyford]

One of my concerns was that if you added ag tires that wouldn't spin, then you would increase the load on the clutch.
I tried loading gravel from a pile, and that didn't go well. Could only load about 1/4 bucket before the tire spin. Of course, that was all it would steer and stop with.
Tried moving some packed dirt with no results except a hot clutch and spinning tires.
BTW, this tractor also has a creeper, so had use of all the gear ratios.
Maybe I just need some more practice with it.
Thanks for the suggestions, especially that brochure.

[outdoors4evr]

Sounds like you need more weight on the rear to keep those back tires on the ground.
- Be careful though. The frame is easily compromised near the rear axle.

Some people talk about the loader for a cub or numbered lowboy like it is a wheelbarrow. I don't own a loader for a cub or numbered lowboy and have never used one. I don't know if it will haul leaves and grass or a teaspoon of loose dirt. I have seen a few front (and rear) tires changed using the loader like a jack. (don't do this - unsafe work practice)
The loader manual should indicate the safe load lifting capability.

[BigBill]

What convinced me to build my int154 is I borrowed a cc 147 with a fel. You can laugh but I moved dirt with this little guy. If you think cub cadets can’t work I took my 70 cc with the plow and leveled off three yards of dirt everytime the dump truck dumped it. That little machine proved its worth. I’m sure the number series can work hard too.