to buy or not to buy

[outdoors4evr]

There were changes to the block along the way. There were some changes to the 154 (early vs. late serial numbers) that changed the intake and moved to a zenith carb. (I think the dipstick and dipstick tube were lengthened as well) When the 185 came, not much changed with the block, but most of the guts to the engine were updated. The governor springs increased the RPM range, pop up pistons, wider connecting rods, and some crankshaft updates happened.
When the 184 came along, there was a block (and frame) update to make room for the starter. The starter-generator was replaced with an alternator and a separate starter. The crankshaft was drilled for a pilot bushing. The big changes happened behind the engine. Clutch was moved to the engine flywheel. PTO clutch was changed to electric and moved up to the left side cover.

[outdoors4evr]

Regarding that 184 pictured, there are some extra handles shown on the right side of the tractor. Maybe it is an auxiliary hydraulic block?
Those 3-point lift arms are from another type of tractor. Those are longer in length than the factory ones.

[Gary Dotson]

All the number series share the same basic C-60 engine. Evolution made for minor changes and increased the RPM and horsepower. The 184 has an electric PTO clutch which has proved to be more reliable than the mechanical unit. On the 184, they also move the drive clutch back to the engine flywheel, similar to the standard Cub, also more reliable. For my money, the 184 is a far better machine!

[outdoors4evr]

You might want to watch this one being auctioned. Its a 185 with 3-point hitch, hydraulic selector valve, and a mower deck. Looks like the mower deck has a home-made skid on one side and a missing skid (ski) on the other. Also missing left side panel. The description describes needing to be choked when mower deck is engaged. This is probably a carb adjustment that is needed (idle-air adjustment).

https://bid.basicequipmentmi.com/auction/59/item/international-cub-lowboy-185-2989
It just might end up being a running machine with a mower deck under the $1500 price.

[Stevos_loboy]

Thank you for the explanation of factory changes to the lo-boy @ the motor! Too bad they never upgraded to a hydro transaxle before discontinuing the model. Good to know stuff like this. And yes indeed there is a remote hydraulic control block mounted on the right - see pic. I'm sure I don't know what I'm talking about at this point concerning this hydraulic remote but it appears to have 2 levers that would control 2 different cylinders, one for the rear hitch and the other for the mid deck? But the tractor should have the ability to control raising and lowering the deck through other pre-existing controls …. could this be a dual function valve box for other cylinders, 3 point hitch and ? I would love to have dual remotes mounted at the front of the tractor with raise and tilt functions for a front blade to push snow in the winter. Those lift arms look completely out of sorts, probably for cat1.

[outdoors4evr]

Those lift arms look completely out of sorts, probably for cat1.

The factory 3-point unit is cat1. Those arms are just really long, effectively reducing the lifting capacity of the 3-point.

[Stevos_loboy]

Sooooooo, I ended buying a 154 from a younger fellow. It came with a 3 point hitch, 3260 mower deck and 54" snow/plow blade. The kid said he bought some stuff for it like ignition parts and fuel system components, but could not get it running. I brought it home to find out the timing at the distributor was off 90 degrees and the fuel lines needed to be re-installed correctly from the tank to the carb. Runs great and purrs like a kitten, BUT we have an oil leak from the rear main seal. BUMMER - so that task is next on the agenda. Now I'm following another post on this forum to read about the events needed to get that job done. Bottom line on this 1969 Lo-boy 154 = I feel it was worth the coin that I spent for the attachments and tractor together as a whole, since I can take care of most repairs needed to get this thing field ready. If you can't or are unable to make repairs on a project like this, don't bother. It can be worse than a high maintenance wife that says she went to a movie Saturday night when a parking ticket shows up in the mail the next day putting her parked in front of the Hilton! Just wanted to post an update on my progress regarding to "buy or not to buy"!

[Eugene]

You just need to play with the hydraulics to see how they function. Install the mower deck before doing so. The hydraulic system is one way. You need implement weight to return, retract, the mid tractor cylinder. The 3-point will probably return by itself.

If you haven't done so, down load the manuals for the numbered Cubs.

Be sure to read the section in the operators manual on the hydraulics.

Nice looking tractor.

[Stevos_loboy]

Eugene, the unit pictured above is not the one I purchased. It was on my list of potential tractors to purchase but concluded it was way too far away from my location to consider! It is a nice looking tractor! Thanks for the suggestions concerning manuals.

I haven't had much time to mess around with it since we brought her home and she's still sitting on the trailer. Yesterday was a gorgeous day in Wisconsin so I decided to find some time to see if it would fire up without the assistance of a battery boost. So, after cracking the sediment bowl valve open, kicking the throttle up just a tad and engaging the choke ……….. hit the starter and botta bing botta bang … fired right up. Unfortunately that oil leak is a real spoiler of fun.

I did want to check the some other stuff out while it was running, such as hydraulics and coolant fluid (water at this point). No indications of leaks anywhere! So that was a pleasant surprise. However, when engaging the hydraulic lever the motor bogged down as if under major load. So with the mower deck NOT installed and the mid rockshaft cylinder fully extended I'm assuming I need down weight at the shaft to retract the cylinder, but how much weight is required to do this?



Also, the 3 point hitch should respond to hydraulic commands, but come to find out there is a stay bar installed just to the right of the rear hydraulic cylinder preventing actuation of the 3ph. This bar seems to wedged in tightly and could not be removed easily and I'm not sticking my fingers in there! I couldn't find a large screw driver or crowbar at the time so maybe today if it doesn't rain I'll try to get that bar out of there and check the system again. How much weight is required to have the 3ph lower under its own gravitational pull? There is a draw bar mounted to the hitch presently.

I noticed in the picture of the mid cylinder that the steering rod has a slight bend in it ….. is this normal?

I realize how long winded I get when posting some of these comments so I apologize!

[Eugene]

One way hydraulic system. Pressure only when the system is in the lift or hold position. It doesn't take a lot of weight or pressure to retract the mid tractor cylinder or the 3-point.

Set and hold the hydraulic control lever in the down position. This will remove the fluid pressure on the cylinders.

Remove the 3-point locking bar and the 3 point should slowly drop on it's own.

To retract the center tractor cylinder. Hydraulic control lever in the down position, large wrench on one of the levers/arms lifting the mower. I use a very large Crescent style wrench when removing or installing the mower deck.

[outdoors4evr]

The steering rod is supposed to be straight. Once straightened, slide a piece of 1/2" black pipe over it.

[Stevos_loboy]

OK, thanks outdoors, I'll add that to the list!

[Stevos_loboy]

Eugene, is this procedure to be done while the motor is NOT running or does it matter?

"Set and hold the hydraulic control lever in the down position. This will remove the fluid pressure on the cylinders."

[outdoors4evr]

The engine must be running for the hydraulics to move. (up or down) If they do move without the engine running, then there is an issue with the system.

[Stevos_loboy]

There is a problem with the hydraulics! The hydraulic control with move back when pulled, but all it does is bogs the motor and doesn't create any action - mid and rear cylinders will not budge. I haven't had time to check the fluid level yet but did buy transmission/hydraulic fluid on my way home. The 1/2" pipe plug located on the rear plate of the transaxle is source to fill the level of the fluid, correct?