Flywheel Upgrade?

[Puffergas]

This is my second post.

Cub lo-Boy 154, old style with PTO pulley on drive shaft. Clutch needs replaced.

Would it be worth the time to replace the flywheel with the new style that has the PTO pulley on the flywheel? No need to move the engine. I have no interest in the PTO so I will be removing the PTO and PTO drive shaft. I would need to shorten the drive shaft and drill a hole on the end. Not sure if I could drill the hole straight enough to line up with the receiver.

Skidding a small log,

[BigBill]

Your replacing the pulley pto longer driveshaft with the clover leaf flywheel so the engine doesn’t move forward to replace the clutch. But reassembly with no pto shaft? I just installed a new clutch in my earlier 154 I did slide the engine forward. I’d measure the shaft from the pilot bearing end to the flywheel face where it bolts up and contact Hamilton bobscubs for a good used driveshaft then no drilling required?

It will hurt the resale value without the rear pto drive.

[Puffergas]

I have most of the parts to install a PTO in the transaxle. The PTO controlled by the clutch has it's advantages and all the M's I have spoiled me. Later I would like to do that project. I would use the clover leaf flywheel pulley to power something like an alternator (not for the starter battery) or a hydraulic pump. Not too worried about resale. The 3 point hitch is worth more than the tractor. I originally bought it as my parts tractor and the 3 PT hitch but my other tractors have a lot of issues. Seems that people never maintain their Lo-Boys.

I could buy a new drive shaft however it is always nice to recycle or use what ya got. Of course I could just keep the old flywheel setup. Just considering my options. In the near future it will be converted to run on charcoal.

I do have one Lo-Boy that I might fix up as a mower. I have most of the parts however I would fix it up to sell because I do not need any more mowers.

I mow with a trail mower plus two Cub Cadets.

[BigBill]

Measure your diameter of your orginal drive shaft. They offer couplings at the www.surpluscenter.com. You could cut your orginal drive shaft to fit the flywheel and keyhole weld the coupling connecting both halves or pin it first?

[Puffergas]

I am a customer of the Surplus Center and have thought about couplings. Maybe the sprocket and chain version. The straight couplings are less expensive but need a keyway slot in the shaft. I think the sprocket version does also. Like you said, it could be welded but that would be the last re-install for the shaft. Maybe slip a hydraulic hose over the cut drive shaft and clamp both ends. Now the pinned coupling sounds better. Food for thought.

[Puffergas]

I decided to stick with the old setup. I could install a common v-belt pulley if I ever wanted to power something off of the rear pulley. Plus the bearing helps to hold the shaft. Might be easier to move the engine than to replace the flywheel and one never knows what will be found at the next auction. Just need to get the 185 going before I start on the 154.

[outdoors4evr]

I decided to stick with the old setup.

I think this is a good move.

[BigBill]

I just changed the clutch assembly out on my early number 3 154. Had to slide the engine forward. I’m sorry at the time I didn’t put a gear on the flywheel for a geared started. I have many fcub gear starters.