How do you remove the rear PTO pulley?

[BigBill]

One of my three 154’s has a bolt and nut stopping it from sliding off, I think I heated it to remove it when I rebuilt my pto. I think the browning split sheave is the way to go for a replacement.

[MikeEyre74]

By that, you mean the style that woods uses on their pulleys? I have a woods mower on my other machine, and yes, it is nice.

[mozer71]

I'm certain its the same. Much better pulley than the 3260 has but its taller. Every inch counts up front.

[MikeEyre74]

Hey guys, thanks again for the help! I just wanted to let you know that, with the help of my slide hammer, the pulley came off without too much fuss after all. I need to get a proper pin for it now, but I got it all cleaned up and put some anti-seize on it so it should be good to go for a while. It definitely had slid forward about a half an inch too far, because now it sits back kind of towards the end of the PTO shaft, as opposed to way up in the front… With the belt dangerously close to some metal parts.

[mozer71]

Sounds good, Mike. Since your splines aren't all wore out, a large cotter key, cut short, could suspend it. I mentioned something about concave drifts/ punches. It seems we don't have to fuss with roll pin removal too much. There are all kinds of drifts and hand presses to make it easier.
It is interesting because once it was a bear.

[MikeEyre74]

There was no roll pin in sight. It was just “on there”.

[BigBill]

On my three 154’s the pulleys are tight on the pto splines. On my fcub the pto splines were destroyed. It makes me wonder why there’s a difference between the two pto shafts wear wise. Is the 154 pto shaft made from a different steel.? Maybe the fcub shaft is softer.? Both pto drive mowers. Maybe it’s the fcub missing the pto clutch that gets more abuse?

[mozer71]

I think you are right. One cannot just slam into the inertia of heavy implements. Something has to give, belt or clutch keyways/ splines.
Almost every time I raise the PTO lever slowly and hear things coming up to speed, I am thankful. Then it is locked positively and all is good.

[outdoors4evr]

There is a big difference between the numbered series and the fcub when it comes to the PTO. The numbered series has a belt driven live pto and the f-cub is direct drive from the transmission and is not a live PTO. The fcub pto spends a lot of its mowing time accelerating and decelerating the pto implement every time the clutch is depressed and the tractor is slowed to a stop. The numbered series only decelerates the implement when the operator intentionally acts on the PTO (not due to use of the clutch). The numbered series belt drive also provides some slippage if the implement suddenly stops rotating.

[MikeEyre74]

With that in mind, I try to minimize the times that I have to stop or back up with my fCub. It just makes more sense to make a loop and come back around for a piece of grass I've missed, than it does to stop and back up.

[mozer71]

I back up for small patches all the time. It is different, you see. I mow cross ways due to the slope. It resembles a Confederate battle flag for a while . Within that pattern, we can turn to mow the border and access the diagonal cut, with the deck spilling at the previous cut section. Sure it is clawing its way uphill but not so much that you have to disengage the deck. It works well that way as sections are mowed but eventually, there are triangle patches. I admit that sometimes I hit a gear because it wasn't slowed down enough.

[mozer71]

Everybody knows this but on flat land, mow through the center. Tractor be gasping at first. You have established a path. That way, you come around and mow what what you see about the exit of the grass/weeds. That way, come around either side and go around it once because there is a balance of the two. It becomes cool because the deck is expelling into previous cut avenue. The wider it gets is more when you need to concentrate about the outer because at that point could be a large gap in the middle. It is just cool because you figure ways to do what really would cost a pile.
The major thing about this that you switch back between two or more sections. Mowing the side of one, then climbing to the other one. I have a belly deck which exits at the right. So when a pass is done, it does the other edge of another, continues as a figure 8 pattern.
Not exactly fig 8 because I'm mowing down the left edge first. That's when go around the bottom of that section. The gap is wider and 154 is nimble. It turns between the gap and continues in opposite direction.

[MikeEyre74]

On both of my Tractors with either style of deck, the IH or the Woods, I have the block off plates installed on the sides. That's what they recommend for a often mowed lawn.. The grass is trapped and gets cut more times, sort of like a mulching deck. That way, I don’t have to deal with grass flying out one side or the other making rows. I much prefer the decks with the block off plates installed.

[mozer71]

I just don't have the hp for mulching or blocked decks. Man, I want it to vomit what I cut and go back to nature.