New pin for the rear flywheel

[BigBill]

I’m working on a new replacement pin for the rear flywheel where the heavy duty roll pin once was that everyone seems to put a bolt in its place. If your hearing a rattle coming from this area it’s the flywheel rattling on the shaft. I ordered all types of fasteners to see which one is the best option. The shear strength is very strong for this application but I’ll have my engineer double check my findings. All the info is in the machinists handbook. In the machine shop we picked up 25 ton parts with four 5/8” grade 90 chains with four 5/16” dowels in shear in the hammer lock chain connectors that attached the hooks to the chain.
There’s a large margin of safety factor. So a 8 mm diameter in a pin should be ok. The only other option is to fit a hitch pin. I been also thinking if there’s room to fit a split collar over the hub and pin so the pin is captured. I like to fix things once and forget about it.

I seen some bolts put in the hole replacing the hd roll pin actually wear into the threads of the bolt. We need to use a longer bolt so no threads are in the hole or fit a shoulder bolt that’s solid in the width of the flywheel. It has to last longer and take the abuse. We do have options. Now to wait till my assortment of fasteners gets here.

[mozer71]

Good read BigBill. When this comes together, I'll have a better idea of what to do.

[BigBill]

The split collars and hardware showed up today. The 8 mm bolts. fits the bores a very small amount loose. But when tightened on the shaft with a split collar fitted over it everything should be held tight. The split collar acts as a clamp and secured the bolt inplace besides the bolt being torqued too. No more flywheel rattle. Now next step to see if there’s room for the split collar with the flywheel brake assembly.
These are hardened, actually fit the bolt to the width of the hub then thread the end of the 8 mm shoulder to 8 mm then use a locknut to torque it.

https://www.boltdepot.com/Metric_should ... inish.aspx

Lock nut

https://www.boltdepot.com/Product-Detai ... oduct=8804

Split collars to go around the flywheel hub over the bolt.

https://www.surpluscenter.com/Power-Tra ... t-Collars/

[BigBill]

Btw, I see some PO install a bolt with the threads exposed in the hole. One bolt was almost worn through halfway. I will use a longer bolt with the threads on the outside. Since the bolt is hardened it should last.

[mozer71]

I sure agree. I used to work on old cars all the time. There was always someplace where the PO put in a full threaded bolt. It may have been grade #8 but that is even worse. During vibration and slight looseness, the threads act as a round file.

[BigBill]

If the split collar fits and clears the puck brake assembly the flywheel needs to be machined for the collar. Because the hub on the flywheel is slightly tapered. I’m thinking the bolt to clamp the shaft to the flywheel, then use the split collar to add more clamping pressure, plus capture the bolt.

[mozer71]

There is much I don't know but the process seems sound. I have this overriding intuition that you wouldn't use it unless it was right.

[BigBill]

I’m thinking out loud, take a longer 8mm metric shoulder bolt and fit it in the flywheel hole so the end sticking out can be 8 mm threaded. The shoulder bolt in shear is very strong.
They also offer Allen head cap screws which are hardened too. I’m very fussy when it comes to fixing things.
So far,

1. Int154 lobby rattle at the clutch area. It has a 3 pt hitch and selector valve. It seems to leak down slowly. I purchased the 9/16” square o rings. The PO rebuilt the c60, I rebuilt the manual pto.

2. Int154 lowboy. Project tractor. I have a creeper assembly for it.

3. Int154 lowboy, installed a new clutch assembly. Has a IH plow and creeper.

[BigBill]

Just so some will understand, cut off the 8 mm smooth end so enough of the bolt can be threaded in 8 mm. I purchased the lock nuts from bolt depot also.

https://www.boltdepot.com/Metric_shoulder_bolts.aspx

[outdoors4evr]

I like the Allen head cap screws. The cap is about the same weight as a nut and balances well.

[BigBill]

I like the Allen head cap screws. The cap is about the same weight as a nut and balances well.

I like the idea of tightening the bolt so the flywheel clamps on the tranny shaft. The hub on the rear of the flywheel is a cast taper on the outside. A collar can be machined to fit this area if it clears the puck brackets.

[BigBill]

I’m working on this, pics to follow. The shoulder bolt with a locking nut appears the way to go. Buy a longer 8 mm shoulder bolt so it can be cut off and threaded 8 mm on the shoulder.
We might have to grind a radious in the puck brackets to clear this bolt if it’s close I haven’t got that far. The 8mm shoulder is completely in the hole there’s no threads to wear into the hub or shaft so it should last longer. What do you think? A shorter shoulder bolt can be used with a flatwasher to space the 6 mm threads more in the hole so it clamps with a 6 mm loc nut. No cutting or threading required. But is the 6 mm thread strong enough. If it is the 8 mm gives us a safety factor. I only fix things once I don’t do things twice.
Info and pics to follow. This shoulder bolt 8 mm in shear is very strong.

[mozer71]

I let this stand a few days but I agree about the 8mm socket head cap bolt and locking nut. I've "fretted" or slipped my clutch so often (since I don't have creeper gearing) that I may need new parts. Hamilton Bob is selling "solid billet" plates with proper taper,on eBay again. Pucks too.

[BigBill]

I didn’t look yet but I think the brackets for the flywheel pucks is right near this shoulder bolt. Grind a radious in the puck bracket if it’s hitting the shoulder bolt.

My number 3 int154 had a bolt with threads wearing in the hole. My number 1 int154 has a rattle in the flywheel area I’m betting it’s another bolt the PO installed. We’re going to run some of these shoulder bolts.

[BigBill]

Another way is a metric Allen cap screw cut the threaded the same way so the threads are out of the hole.