newbie would appreciate help

[mozer71]

edit : Pic #1 shows block with #1 at top. Pic #2 is head with #1 at bottom. Lots of clues here. There was invasion of water and traveled to some valves.

[mozer71]

We can see some corrosion around some water jacket holes.

[Slim140]

Look under these 4 valves (the seat side) where they meet the block (seat) and see if they are rusted/pitted. There looks like there may be some pitting between them where the head would meet it. If it’s pitted between them it may can be machined out. I’m on my phone and can’t see it that good.

[mozer71]

I think its going to be all right. You got on this quickly, didn't dog it when running poor. Pretty sturdy even with a little water in the wrong places. I see one of our mentors is helping now so , it is good.

[Eugene]

What does both sides of the head gasket look like? Photos.

I would opt for an in tractor overhaul, at least start there. See how things look during the tear down and measurements.

[mozer71]

Oh heck. Before I leave, notice Shane's circle of suspicion about those valves and seats. At center right is a bolt hole. There are prick marks around it. May be it couldn't be torqued to spec. Loose, it could allow this to happen.

[Eugene]

There was invasion of water and traveled to some valves.

I'm not so sure of the coolant in the valve, cylinder head area. Look in the coolant passages, coolant is a bit below the surface of the engine block.

My guess is that the present coolant drained or dripped out of the head when it was removed.

[kentrx1]

You are correct about coolant. Did not drain enough out before I pulled head. My mistake. Was going to change oil anyway.

[mozer71]

Hi. I wasn't talking about some wet area but evidence of what already happened. Btw, the interior looks very clean. The compression of #1 and #4 were fine .iirc

[outdoors4evr]

I'd also look really closely at that block for cracks. Use a can of brake cleaner and a pile of rags to clean this up so you can tell the difference between crud and corrosion. A toothbrush can help clean around the bottom edge of the valves.

If it were mine, I would pull the valves and have the block surface machined flat. (decked) Then I'd have the valve seats ground.
The head, I would just check for flatness. Replace the head gasket, clean everything (head bolts too) apply sealant to bolts, copper coat the head gasket and put it together.
At this point, you are deep enough into this thing that it is VERY difficult to resist the "since the hood is off" I should replace everything.

[Jim Becker]

The area I thought looked suspect is dead center between cylinders 2 and 3. Inspect that area of both the block and head for evidence of a gasket failure. Also, look at both sides of the gasket itself. Often, the gasket shows more evidence than either of the other parts. Use a straight edge and feeler gauges to look for an uneven surface of both parts. If the block is near flat, it is probably OK as is. The head is easier and cheaper to have machined flat. Inspect both the head and block for evidence of any cracks, if any it is time to replan. Otherwise:

Check the top of each cylinder bore for a ridge. Crank each piston down and see if there is any damage to a cylinder bore. If there is only a slight ridge and no other evident problem, don't bother with any machining or parts replacement in the cylinders or at the crankshaft.

Remove the valves and inspect the condition of the valve seats and the part of the valve that contacts the seats. It will probably be fairly inexpensive to get them refaced (depends on who you find locally).

With the above done, I'd put it back together with a new head gasket and see where I end up. If this doesn't fix it, you have basically only thrown away the price of a head gasket. Then if it still has a compression problem or burns a lot of oil you can go back in for cylinder/piston work.

[kentrx1]

Look under these 4 valves (the seat side) where they meet the block (seat) and see if they are rusted/pitted. There looks like there may be some pitting between them where the head would meet it. If it’s pitted between them it may can be machined out. I’m on my phone and can’t see it that good.

I have done as you suggested. There is pitting between valves on both second and third pistons. Also some pitting on valve seat. Is this a must pull and get machined sceanario now? It was not skipping or hard to crank. Much chance on slapping gasket on it and getting some hours out of it?

[kentrx1]

One more question Head shows about 9 thousands gap between second and third cylinder. Is that too much for a new head gasket to handle?

[Slim140]

Look under these 4 valves (the seat side) where they meet the block (seat) and see if they are rusted/pitted. There looks like there may be some pitting between them where the head would meet it. If it’s pitted between them it may can be machined out. I’m on my phone and can’t see it that good.

I have done as you suggested. There is pitting between valves on both second and third pistons. Also some pitting on valve seat. Is this a must pull and get machined sceanario now? It was not skipping or hard to crank. Much chance on slapping gasket on it and getting some hours out of it?

If you can find someone with a small engine valve seat grinder you can do it where it’s at or load it on a trailer and take it to them. You can take the valves and have them ground in a machine shop, that is if neither are beyond grinding specs.

You can have new hardened seats installed in your block if they are to far gone.

I’m not sure what the max warpage is on the head to get it to seal.

[SONNY]

You can hand lap the valves, BUT it takes forever to do it. If you don't have a valve machine, you could take the valves to a shop, BUT that don't get the seats done. ---- See if you can rent a valve seat grinder.--- they look like an angle grinder and are about that size. they have all sizes of stones for them. I have an old one that I've use forever, also have the big machine that does the valves.
Some of the valves may be too far gone to grind, that won't be known til you do them.
IF you have a lot of time and elbow grease, --- try hand laping them first and see where you stand. ---might get lucky and they clean up easy! Also check the stems for wear in the guides! ---- Guides can make a new rebuild go bad if they are not checked!--seen this happen a time or two! lol!!