Governor to Carburetor Linkage

[outdoors4evr]

While replacing the throttle cable on my 184, I realized there was a good amount of slop between the actuation of the throttle cable (input to the governor) and the input provided to the carburetor butterfly.
I figured it was time to do the old JB Weld Repair at the governor rockshaft. (can't find the How-To or I'd post a link)

When I pulled the rockshaft, I found the woodruff key just barely stuck up above the shaft. (less than 1/64")
The key appears unworn and was still doing the job - although with minimal contact area.

I think I'll try to find a "taller" woodruff key before applying JB Weld. Perhaps the lack of contact area has significantly worn the governor socket where this key contacts.

[Bill Hudson]

… I figured it was time to do the old JB Weld Repair at the governor rockshaft. (can't find the How-To or I'd post a link) ...

This may be the one you're looking for: http://farmallcub.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?f=139&t=100217&p=791756&hilit=governor+rockshaft+weld#p791756 Under "Fuel" in the How To forum.

Bill

[outdoors4evr]

Thank you for posting the How To. That is exactly the right link.

I failed to find a "taller" woodruff key as to get taller, ya also have to get a larger diameter. I did find another key of the same size at Ace Hardware.
I cleaned the rockshaft thoroughly and then mixed up a small bit of JB Weld. The Epoxy was used to fill in space at the bottom of the keyway. I seated the woodruff key in the slot so that it sticks up higher from the rockshaft (approx 1/8"). Cleaned off all excess epoxy.

When I inserted the shaft into the governor, the key now extended to the top of the keyway and the slop I had noted before was gone. Mounted the rockshaft and attached the carburetor link. Checked for play in the shaft and found it to be acceptable (very little).

Started up the tractor and gave it a little throttle. The governor opened the throttle plate with a yank and almost instantly pulled it right back to a medium throttle setting. This is looking good! Pulled it back to an idle and within an instant it was idling nice and low.
- Used to need to goose it (throttle up, then down) to get it to a low idle.

At this point, the tractor itself is ready for another mowing season. Now to start working on the mower deck.

[Gary Dotson]

That is good observation, on your part. I haven't fooled with one of these, for a while, but wonder if that isn't often the real problem. I like your approach to fix it, too. I'll keep this one in mind!

[John *.?-!.* cub owner]

I have used Loctite on several of them. Never saw ones condition like you described

[BigBill]

Is the key way worn in the shaft or lever? Either way I prefer making a step key from a larger key. I file will make it fit. Even the key slot can be filed to clean it up. Keep it orginal as much as possibly even replace the worn parts with used parts.

Being a machine repair man in a manufacturing company I replaced many nails used as cotter pins in my first week on the job. The punch press operators would pull the nails so they didn’t work. I bent that bigger cotter pin good. I was like the Maytag man after that. I had many different jobs in my lifetime? I wore many hats.

[outdoors4evr]

The woodruff key wasn't worn much and was identical in size with its replacement. My best guess is that the key should have been the next size bigger in diameter without changing the thickness. I failed to find such a size as the only ones found were a larger diameter and a larger thickness.
I think the slop was due to the low engagement surface area. (The key only stuck up above the shaft a slight bit) I think the socket wore rather than the key.
I backfilled the keyway slot in the shaft with epoxy which forced the woodruff key to stick up higher. This engaged unworn metal in the socket and the slop is now gone.
I rolled the back yard this weekend. Was able to just idle along in 3rd gear and the governor responded quickly to the changes in load. I've never had a fast reacting governor before! Loving it!