184 ground breaking

[outdoors4evr]

FINALLY! PICTURES! Great 184 you have there! Order a free new gas cap and eliminate that fire hazard.
https://www.ihgascap.com/index.aspx

I've been looking for the IH-310 plow for years and haven't found one. In the absense of an IH-310 plow, I've been eyeballing this at TSC. It is adjustable so I could move it to the right on the 3-point to fit my wheel spacing.
https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/produ ... ottom-plow

Currently, I use a junky old 3-point single bottom plow from a sears garden tractor. It is small, and the 184 pulls it with ease. I wish it were adjustable left to right because like you I have wheel spacers on my 184 and the tires don't run in the previous furrow. It also is only an 8" plow so it doesn't dig very deep. Again, wishing for something better.

If I need more traction, I'll use the chains.

[outdoors4evr]

Oh yea, I also have the IH Model 15 tiller and the breaking plow does a MUCH better job at opening up new ground.
The tiller works best after your garden is established, and only digs about 5" - 6" deep. I started a new garden plot last year and since I do not have a disc, I plowed, let it sit for a month, then tilled. The plowing did a good job at killing the grass.

I also amended the soil with aged horse manure. I spread the manure with a rear blade, then repeated the plowing and tilling. This was all done last year in preparation for plants this year.

[hoythunter25]

FINALLY! PICTURES! Great 184 you have there! Order a free new gas cap and eliminate that fire hazard.
https://www.ihgascap.com/index.aspx

I've been looking for the IH-310 plow for years and haven't found one. In the absense of an IH-310 plow, I've been eyeballing this at TSC. It is adjustable so I could move it to the right on the 3-point to fit my wheel spacing.
https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/produ ... ottom-plow

Currently, I use a junky old 3-point single bottom plow from a sears garden tractor. It is small, and the 184 pulls it with ease. I wish it were adjustable left to right because like you I have wheel spacers on my 184 and the tires don't run in the previous furrow. It also is only an 8" plow so it doesn't dig very deep. Again, wishing for something better.

If I need more traction, I'll use the chains.

Thanks I will have to get a free gas cap!
I have also looked at that county line from TSC but didn't want to spend $600+....
Do you have any pictures of your sears setup? How did you convert it to use with your 3pt because it is originally for veey small 3pt.

[outdoors4evr]

First of all, let me say that the Sears plow does not do a great job. It is 3-point, so there isn't much converting to do. I use a cat0 to cat1 bushings from TSC. https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/countyline-category-1-to-0-lift-arm-bushing
It looks like this, but no way I'd pay this price.
https://www.letgo.com/en-us/i/1968-sears-roebuck-and-co-10-inch-moldboard-plow_8ae69975-0ac6-4abe-a2b7-28b5df85e82f

As you can see the Sears plow is not adjustable. The plow is centered on the tractor. This works great on a sears suburban lawn tractor, but for the 184, it needs to sit closer to the right tire. I ran a tie-down strap to the frame to pull the 3-point over to the right as far as possible, but it wasn't enough to get the tire running in the furrow.

If I were making the purchase again, I'd buy a used farmall cub 193 plow (drawbar mount style).

Then I'd adapt it to the 3-point with this.
https://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200519382_200519382
https://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200342832_200342832
Mount the plow toward the right side of the drawbar.

Just to finish out the usefulness, I'd probably add one of these to the drawbar.
https://www.harborfreight.com/3500-lb-step-bumper-receiver-69673.html

[hoythunter25]

I didn't realize they made those adapter bushings. That is awesome to know, I will be picking up a set for sure.

Your post was very inspirational. I have available to me a small two bottom plow from a Power King tractor. I will be adapting it for todays shop class lesson since we are learning from home these days.

This is basically what I am thinking, what do you guys think?
I will hopefully be able to adjust it side to side on the drawbar to get the spacing correct like you mentioned.

[MiCarl]

Those plow bottoms look like they were for a walk behind tractor because the adjusting crank points rearward. I suspect they were previously combined into the rig you started with.

They're probably 8 or 10" bottoms. I'd think a pair of 8s would pull fine but 10s might be a challenge. If they're 12" plows you're probably going to need to separate and just use a single bottom on your tractor.

Some thoughts for you:

The cranks are to set how deep the plows run. You'll be able to accomplish the same thing in the rig you're attempting by adjusting the top link. I'd get both bottoms to run the same and do all my future adjustments with the top link.

The farthest right corner of the share on the right bottom needs to line up with the inside sidewalls of the right tires. Hard to know without the tractor but I suspect the set up in you're second picture will place the plow too far to the left.

You want to make sure the bottoms are parallel and set up so they run at the same depth. If the plow is fighting with itself it'll be much more difficult to pull.

[ibdilbert]

I'll add pictures of the tiller that fits our cubs.

I actually just picked that up from Hamilton Bobs a few weeks ago. I'm always pleasantly surprised how well these tractors run! Mine doesn't even bog down when you drop the tiller into the ground.

[BigBill]

That tiller looks awesome these numbered machines do have the power. Very underestimated.

I was doing chicken manure in the fall and horse manure in the spring. Don’t forget the lime in the fall. The seeds pop right up.


I’d buy it and look for a cub cadet with a creeper they make awesome riding tillers. I have some 1” x 1” cultivator tines I made to fab a 3 pt mount on my 154. My garden is very soft and won’t take much to spin it.

The IH tiller doesn’t go as deep as my gravely L8 with the rotary plow does. My point is a lot of the nutrients that seeps into the soil doesn’t get tilled back up with a shallower tiller.

[hoythunter25]

I'll add pictures of the tiller that fits our cubs.

R_IMG_20200430_153426.jpg
R_IMG_20200418_160754.jpg
R_IMG_20200418_160541.jpg

I actually just picked that up from Hamilton Bobs a few weeks ago. I'm always pleasantly surprised how well these tractors run! Mine doesn't even bog down when you drop the tiller into the ground.

May I ask how much you paid?

[outdoors4evr]

10 years ago I purchased one in similar condition (maybe a little more wear than ibdilberts) for roughly $700.

The creeper is mandatory because the tractor must be running high RPM's while tilling. A creeper will cost about $800. Need a shorter driveshaft for the 184. HamiltonBobs has new aftermarket driveshafts available.
https://hamiltonbobs.com/cart/product/1 ... lo-boy-mm5

[outdoors4evr]

The creeper cost is the biggest reason to go with the plow and disc method.

I would definitely give the plow a try. Try it out (start shallow) adjust it deeper until the tractor labors. Measure how deep you are digging and see if that meets your requirements. 6" would be deeper than a tiller.
Perhaps if you can't pull it deep enough, remove the plow share nearest the middle of the tractor. The first time you break the ground will be the worst case scenario and hardest to pull.

[gitractorman]

Those are two, 10-inch plows from an Economy, Power King tractor. The lo-boy shouldn't have any trouble with them, as long as you can keep the wheels from spinning. The Power King was roughly the same horsepower, and really, just about the same size tractor as a Cub.
With the cranks on the back of each plow, you can really fine-tune the depth of cut, which you often lose with the 3-point hitch setup because you're fighting between draft height (lift) and angle of cut. Since you're just gardening, you shouldn't need to plow up more than those 10-inch plows will turn. Honestly, that should work as a pretty nice setup!

[hoythunter25]

I believe they are 7" or 8" plows if I am measuring correctly? So I was hoping it would pull them pretty easily.

I am trying to understand where I should position them....I didnt quite follow the previous attempt to educate. Is the "right" side of the plow and tractor as if I am looking from the front of the tractor I am assuming?

[gitractorman]

I'll bet they were originally 10-inch plows that someone cut down to 8". My guess is they were not notched like that originally, but the tractor couldn't pull them very easily so they were cut down. They'll still work fine, and pull easier than the 10-inch plows. Basically, you want a furrow wide enough for your tire to run in. The Ag tires on a Cub are 8.3 or 9.5 x 24, so an 8-inch or 10-inch plow will work fine.

Yes, if sitting on the tractor, facing forward, the back of the front plow wing should line up with the inside of the right, rear tire. You can see how it should line up by standing behind your plow and looking at how the 2nd plow wing lines up with the left side of the front plow. Similarly, you want the front plow wing to line up with the inside (left side) of your right rear tire. That way, when you're plowing and the right tire is in the previously cut furrow, the plow you're pulling should be cutting a new furrow and rolling the material into the furrow that the right tire is traveling in, behind the tire.

[hoythunter25]

Here are a couple pictures of what I built today. The primer is drying overnight in the shop and I will mount tomorrow.