154 Governor issues

[cadencewildbeast]

Greetings gents.

I purchased a 154 2 years back and unfortunately had to let it set outside under a tarp untill my new home was completed. That time is now, and I am getting it running. I have rebuilt Carb, went through the distributor due to corrosion, new coil & plugs, and got it running for the most part.

I believe what i am dealing with now is the governor sticking on me. the linkage to the throttle cable is loose and moving, but when I watch the linkage from Gov to Carb when i adjust throttle I get nothing nothing nothing then huge jump at the carb, and it stutters and dies. if i manually help the Gov/ carb rod it idles up fine.

Is that a something that I can deal with without removing the gov? Also at throttle cable completely on the low side I have no tension on the spring that connect the throttle to the Gov rod. is that correct?

Another thing I would like your opinion on is I am getting no visible smoke when tractor is running at any speed until I engage the mower deck. When the mower deck is engaged I get what I feel is a lot of smoke out of the oil dipstick area. What could that be a sing of? I have checked the oil level several times and it is full.

thanks for the help,
Nathan

[Eugene]

The governor on my 154 gums up if it sits for a long time, such as over winter.

Remove the hood. Loosen the throttle cable from the governor arm. Spray can of solvent. Spray all locations on the governor where moving parts enter the governor.

Spray several times a day. Wait. Gently move the throttle cable arm and the cross shaft. Don't pry with any tools, just gently move the parts by hand. Spray some more. The process may take several days.

Solve the governor issue first. Operate the tractor for several days, then check the compression. Smoke for dipstick breather could be condensation.

[cadencewildbeast]

Thanks for the reply. I have been doing exactly what you recommended so far. Did spend about 2/3 hours mowing with it just now. Ran fairly well, but was still a nightmare to get PTO to engage without puttering out.

[Eugene]

Complete the 100% engine tune up; valve tappets, timing, compression tests.

[Gary Dotson]

Where the governor rockshaft crosses the front of the engine, it passes through a stand off on the carb. side of the engine. That location can rust and cause a very erratic governor function, lube it well! You say you've been through the distributor, how did you set the timing? You're stumble while trying to start the mower could be late timing, it's best to set it with a timing light.

[cadencewildbeast]

Where the governor rockshaft crosses the front of the engine, it passes through a stand off on the carb. side of the engine. That location can rust and cause a very erratic governor function, lube it well! You say you've been through the distributor, how did you set the timing? You're stumble while trying to start the mower could be late timing, it's best to set it with a timing light.

Your very likely correct. The timing is basically set to ear right now. Got it running then just adjusted to what sounded the best. I am trying to find someone close that has a timing light to check it. I don't want to have to but one and probably never use it again.


Ill check the pivot point on the carb side and see if that is free.

[Don McCombs]

Many auto parts stores will lend or rent diagnostics tools.

[Jim Becker]

If you don't have a timing light, static time it.

[cadencewildbeast]

Well guys, thanks for all of the suggestions and though. I went out this weekend and bought me a compression tester and a timing light. Got the timing at what I though it needs to be. The compression comes back at cylinders 1, 2, 3 are all 60/70 PSI, and number 4 was 65/75psi. I am not sure what the compression should be, but that is where I am at.

[Eugene]

I am not sure what the compression should be, but that is where I am at.

My guess that was the dry test results. Wet test and then report back.

Wet test will indicate possible problem areas; valves, rings, rings and valves.

60/70 psi dry test is very very low. You would like to see 115 to 120 psi.

[cadencewildbeast]

Will do. I read some posts about compression tests after posting this and seen where people were saying to do wet tests. Will report back with those numbers

[cadencewildbeast]

So after a short delay lol. Sorry it was running and mowing so I just let it ride but here are my results. #1cylinder (front of tractor) and #2 are both at 105 psi. #3 is at 73 and #4 is at 90 psi wet. What was on a cold Jan afternoon without warming engine or anything and putting 1 tablespoon of SAE30 weight oil in each spark plug hole as I checked them. I have not checked valves or anything yet because I find it had to believe they would be stuck if the tractor is running and doesn’t seem to be missing any. What would everyone suggest next other than check for stuck valves?

[Eugene]

Not stuck valves. You can check for valve/tappet clearance.

It's due for an engine overhaul.

[cadencewildbeast]

It's due for an engine overhaul.

. That’s what I was afraid someone was going to say. Is it even worth looking farther to check valves or just not the bullet and head to the machine shop?

[Jim Becker]

You still should check the valve adjustments if you never have. One that is too far off can affect the compression reading.