154 Governor issues

[cadencewildbeast]

Well after some more time off I checked the valves, and couldn't find an issue there. Went ahead and took the head off and Measured the boars. First question is can you measure the boars form the top of the pistons @ BDC?

If so that is what I did and here are the results:

#1 Cylinder
Inline with crankshaft Top: 2.640" Bottom: 2.627 Difference = .013"
90 Deg to crankshaft Top: 2.637" Bottom: 2.629 Difference = .008"

#2 Cylinder
Inline with crankshaft Top: 2.639" Bottom: 2.623" Difference = .016"
90 Deg to crankshaft Top: 2.637" Bottom: 2.627" Difference = .010"

#3 Cylinder
Inline with crankshaft Top: 2.641" Bottom: 2.630" Difference = .011"
90 Deg to crankshaft Top: 2.639" Bottom: 2.627" Difference = .012"

#4 Cylinder
Inline with crankshaft Top: 2.635" Bottom: 2.628" Difference = .007"
90 Deg to crankshaft Top: 2.634" Bottom: 2.625" Difference = .009"


With that being stated. I seen in the manual that if your cylinder is more that .005 then you need to reboar the cylinders. Is that the actual real world practice?

thanks!!

[Eugene]

The .005 difference is from the standard bore diameter. In this case 2 5/8 = 2.625

The top of the bores are .010 to .015 over. Bottom of the bores are slightly over.

Before I made any decissions I would disassemble the engine, clean, measure and record the measurements.

[Bbading1989]

Definitely out of spec but IMHO you opened a can of worms by taking the head off! Since the head is off you might as well finish the surgery With that compression you should not have any problem revving up to proper speed.

My 184 won't Rev up to the normal 2500rpm with the throttle linkage but it I push on the governor linkage I can make that thing sing.

[outdoors4evr]

Being the non-mowing season - and the fact that the head is already off, I would definitely have the work done on the bores so you can go into the mowing season with a fresh engine.

[cadencewildbeast]

Being the non-mowing season - and the fact that the head is already off, I would definitely have the work done on the bores so you can go into the mowing season with a fresh engine.

That was my general thoughts but new to engine rebuilds and not sure what all I am getting into. Other than the cylinders boarded and probably valve seats checked / touched up. Is there anything else that you would suggest doing while it’s apart and makes since doing now?

Thanks,

[outdoors4evr]

If bored, you would need new pistons and rings - sized to fit the new cylinder size. Consider letting the machine shop procure the proper pistons and rings. Since you already have the rods out, might as well replace the rod bearings and main bearings on the crank.

[Eugene]

A thought, you can or should be able to purchase a numbered Cub Loboy in work ready condition for what a machine shop engine rebuild will cost.

[outdoors4evr]

This company is not a forum sponsor, but I haven't seen a better price on an overhaul kit where you get to select the sizes of the parts received.
https://www.agkits.com/international-60 ... BFJS-hKiUk
Have the block bored to the next size at a machine shop and order your rebuild kit.

[Gary Dotson]

Since you're new to major engine work, you'll need to have an experienced person inspect and measure all components: cylinders, valves and valve seats, crankshaft main and rod journals, cam, lifters etc. Only then can you determine what parts and machine work is needed. A full rebuild will be pretty costly but it should last the rest of your life.

[cadencewildbeast]

Since you're new to major engine work, you'll need to have an experienced person inspect and measure all components: cylinders, valves and valve seats, crankshaft main and rod journals, cam, lifters etc. Only then can you determine what parts and machine work is needed. A full rebuild will be pretty costly but it should last the rest of your life.

Thanks for the input Gary on what I should take a look at. I have a friend that is coming over later this week to take a look with me. I believe he has a decent amount of engine work under his belt. I can manage to measure everything but the valves, that is where my knowledge falls flat. Everything else I think I can handle doe to my profession being a CAD designer at a major medical implant company. I have the tools to measure it all, its just know what truly needs looked at to do the job right.

I am still hopeful that only thing needs touched is the cylinders needing boarded over and shove some new oversize pistons in and on down the road we go. Unfortunately I an never that lucky.

I did get the engine pulled out this morning, and fell short of getting it on the engine stand due to the extra thick flywheel. Hoping that comes off fairly easy after work and can get it on a stand and get the rods pulled out of her.

[cadencewildbeast]

Well the engine is now at the machine shop awaiting the works there. My question now is I cannot recall what temperature it was operating at when I was testing it last summer. Can anyone tell me what the average running temp is for the C-60? I was thinking about using Cerakote to paint the engine if they have a yellow close enough. Most of their yellow are color stable to 350F. Has anyone tried this before and if so what color did you use. Thanks.

[Eugene]

Can anyone tell me what the average running temp is for the C-60?

Ball park, 200 deg F on a hot/warm day, after an hour or two operation.

[Jim Becker]

Use the same paint you use on the rest of the tractor. The only thing hot enough to hurt the paint is the exhaust manifold.

[cadencewildbeast]

Hey everyone. Just want to say thanks to all of those who have helped me through this so far. I have another question for everyone. I am thinking about adding an oil pressure and water temp gage in the dash of my tractor during this overhaul. Know I know that I can just remove the oil pressure sender from the filter house and run a line to the dash for oil, but for the water I seen a plug in the water out elbow. I was wondering if I could add a water temp probe in there to pickup a good water temp?

thanks.

[outdoors4evr]

I used a Tee in the oil pressure so that I could have both the gauge and the idiot light. I just mounted them on a flat plate.

Regarding the water temp, there isn't a great location on the stock machine to put a gauge. A temp probe could be added to the bottom radiator inlet drain plug area, but that would always be the coldest water in the system. I've contemplated adding something like this to the upper radiator hose There is a lot of room to work on a numbered lowboy because the upper hose is long. Just cut the hose and clamp this in (not certain on the size).

https://www.amazon.com/Dewhel-Aluminum-Temperature-Radiator-Adaptor/dp/B00LVTU5HW/ref=asc_df_B00LVTU5CW/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=312190333361&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=15533434211561999597&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9058203&hvtargid=pla-570953590988&th=1