New owner of broken down 184.

[1CavRoohauler]

Howdy everybody. I recently purchased a new to me 184 thinking that is the perfect size tractor for my property. Well, before I could even get a first mow or anything out of my investment, I’m already tossing more money into it.

I need a new clutch, no more adjustment is possible. Also, while looking at the clutch, the component that the PTO belts pulley are on, the driveshaft goes through the center of it. There are these cups with springs that are pushed up against the pressure plate of the clutch. Well the casing that holds the springs in is cracked on that part. I do not know the name of it, nor can I find it in the part manual.

Where is a decent place to get parts for these? I would rather go ahead and spend more now and not have to worry about junk parts, heck that OE clutch lasted this long..

Also, from doing a part search it seems that places on the internet have the 184 and 154 using the same clutch in their descriptions, but in the part manual it clearly states a different part number for each model. Am I missing something?

I really do appreciate your time, and if all of this has been answered before, please just direct me to the proper posting. I could not find it. Thank you very much and I look forward to learning from you all.

[tst]

look at Hamilton Bobs site, they are a sponsor here also

[Stanton]

Welcome to the Forum!

Take some time and read through a few threads to acquaint yourself with the Forum:

• Welcome Wagon
• How to Upload Pictures to a Post
• Forum Picture Posting And Other Interesting Things You Can Do
• Using the Forum

After your 2nd post on the Forum, you'll have access to the all the PDF Manuals on this site. There’s a few ways to do that:

• From a desktop or laptop, go to "Quick Links" in the upper left corner of your screen. Hit that and a pull-down appears where you'll find "PDF Manuals".
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We’d encourage you to take the Safety Test located in the Safety Forum: http://farmallcub.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?f=33&t=68084

Glad you joined us.

[Gary Dotson]

Hamilton Bob can fix you up, you might call him to explain your needs.

[1CavRoohauler]

Welcome to the Forum!

Take some time and read through a few threads to acquaint yourself with the Forum:

• Welcome Wagon
• How to Upload Pictures to a Post
• Forum Picture Posting And Other Interesting Things You Can Do
• Using the Forum

After your 2nd post on the Forum, you'll have access to the all the PDF Manuals on this site. There’s a few ways to do that:

• From a desktop or laptop, go to "Quick Links" in the upper left corner of your screen. Hit that and a pull-down appears where you'll find "PDF Manuals".
• You can also go to “Cub Info” in the upper toolbar, then hit “Rudi’s Manuals”. From there, you can access a variety of information.
• If you're using a phone, go to the "Links Directory" (second category down the main page). Once in "Links Directory" , scroll down to the second section "Tractor Parts & Manuals" and you'll find them there.

We’d encourage you to take the Safety Test located in the Safety Forum: http://farmallcub.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?f=33&t=68084

Glad you joined us.

Ok, I sure will do that. Thank you very much. I really do appreciate the reply and help.

[1CavRoohauler]

Hamilton Bob can fix you up, you might call him to explain your needs.

Ok will do. It seems I would rather explain my issues to a person that knows the equipment than go fumbling around chasing a greased pig.

[outdoors4evr]

I have a HamiltonBobs clutch, pressure plate, and throw-out bearing in my 184. While you are there, this is a very good time to replace the PTO belts. They are a matched set and very stiff belt material. I purchased these from a caseIH dealer. I'm certain HamiltonBobs also have these.

Also, inspect the driveshaft - looking for worn splines. The splines should be square shape and where the clutch rides, the driveshaft splines wear to look like triangles.

[1CavRoohauler]

I have a HamiltonBobs clutch, pressure plate, and throw-out bearing in my 184. While you are there, this is a very good time to replace the PTO belts. They are a matched set and very stiff belt material. I purchased these from a caseIH dealer. I'm certain HamiltonBobs also have these.

Also, inspect the driveshaft - looking for worn splines. The splines should be square shape and where the clutch rides, the driveshaft splines wear to look like triangles.

Ok will do. Hopefully that is not worn out. The driveshafts wear out often?

[outdoors4evr]

No, just machines with a lot of hours that also got no grease love.
Yes, grease the driveshaft splines when you put in your new clutch plate. Use heavy axle grease.

Unfortunately, this also brings a great opportunity to replace the rear main seal and pilot bearing. Does your tractor drip oil near the rear of the engine? Four bolts to remove the flywheel and 16 easy bolts to remove the oil pan gain access to the rear main retainer. Send the rear main retainer and a little cash to TST and he will machine it to fit a new updated seal.
http://www.farmallcub.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?f=223&t=110755
Make sure that the pilot bearing is in good condition and still spins.
https://hamiltonbobs.com/cart/product/driveshaft-pilot-bearing-p5529/drive-train-c63/ih-m13/184-cub-lo-boy-mm5
If the pilot bearing needs to be replaced, the new ones often need reamed to fit the driveshaft.

Pay a LOT of attention to the clutch fork when you remove it.
https://hamiltonbobs.com/cart/product/creeper-throw-out-bearing-yoke-p6747/drive-train-c63/ih-m13/184-cub-lo-boy-mm5
These only go in one way and can go in backward, but don't work properly. Might want to put a dob of paint or tape one side of the fork and label it (front). Look at the fork where the throwout carrier contacts the fork. These wear and need to be welded up and ground back to shape (rectangular). The forks also have a habit of spreading out. Bend them back into shape with a vice so they just touch both sides of the throwout carrier.

[1CavRoohauler]

No, just machines with a lot of hours that also got no grease love.
Yes, grease the driveshaft splines when you put in your new clutch plate. Use heavy axle grease.

Unfortunately, this also brings a great opportunity to replace the rear main seal and pilot bearing. Does your tractor drip oil near the rear of the engine? Four bolts to remove the flywheel and 16 easy bolts to remove the oil pan gain access to the rear main retainer. Send the rear main retainer and a little cash to TST and he will machine it to fit a new updated seal.
http://www.farmallcub.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?f=223&t=110755
Make sure that the pilot bearing is in good condition and still spins.
https://hamiltonbobs.com/cart/product/driveshaft-pilot-bearing-p5529/drive-train-c63/ih-m13/184-cub-lo-boy-mm5
If the pilot bearing needs to be replaced, the new ones often need reamed to fit the driveshaft.

Pay a LOT of attention to the clutch fork when you remove it.
https://hamiltonbobs.com/cart/product/creeper-throw-out-bearing-yoke-p6747/drive-train-c63/ih-m13/184-cub-lo-boy-mm5
These only go in one way and can go in backward, but don't work properly. Might want to put a dob of paint or tape one side of the fork and label it (front). Look at the fork where the throwout carrier contacts the fork. These wear and need to be welded up and ground back to shape (rectangular). The forks also have a habit of spreading out. Bend them back into shape with a vice so they just touch both sides of the throwout carrier.

I always love how one fix can lead into another one, then another one and another one. Next thing you know you got yourself a new piece of equipment.

Heck This tractor will/may be down longer than I am anticipating, or wanting. I would love to get all that done but that will have to wait, having the rear main replaced that is.

[1CavRoohauler]

No, just machines with a lot of hours that also got no grease love.
Yes, grease the driveshaft splines when you put in your new clutch plate. Use heavy axle grease.

Unfortunately, this also brings a great opportunity to replace the rear main seal and pilot bearing. Does your tractor drip oil near the rear of the engine? Four bolts to remove the flywheel and 16 easy bolts to remove the oil pan gain access to the rear main retainer. Send the rear main retainer and a little cash to TST and he will machine it to fit a new updated seal.
http://www.farmallcub.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?f=223&t=110755
Make sure that the pilot bearing is in good condition and still spins.
https://hamiltonbobs.com/cart/product/driveshaft-pilot-bearing-p5529/drive-train-c63/ih-m13/184-cub-lo-boy-mm5
If the pilot bearing needs to be replaced, the new ones often need reamed to fit the driveshaft.

Pay a LOT of attention to the clutch fork when you remove it.
https://hamiltonbobs.com/cart/product/creeper-throw-out-bearing-yoke-p6747/drive-train-c63/ih-m13/184-cub-lo-boy-mm5
These only go in one way and can go in backward, but don't work properly. Might want to put a dob of paint or tape one side of the fork and label it (front). Look at the fork where the throwout carrier contacts the fork. These wear and need to be welded up and ground back to shape (rectangular). The forks also have a habit of spreading out. Bend them back into shape with a vice so they just touch both sides of the throwout carrier.

Thank you for posting those parts. They led me right to some that I actually need! I was on able to better explain what I needed. Thank you. That fork on mine is worn out, I have not torn into it just yet and I can tell by your description it needs to be addressed. The holes for the clevis pin is wollered out, so I will just replace it.

[1CavRoohauler]

Thank you everybody. After a nice long confusing conversation, I got to talking to Jr and have a nice list of parts on order. I also was able to talk to Bob himself and after babbling for a minute or two I sent him some pictures and he set me straight. I am glad he had the parts I need also. Now the fun begins. I get to either drag the tractor where it broke down, or do the work in the field. That is the life.

[outdoors4evr]

It is probably worth dragging it back to the shop. You will need 20 tools and every one will be a walk back to the shop. The majority of the work is done from underneath the tractor. The only covers that need removed are the right hand side panel (access to the PTO Belt and tensioner) and the flywheel cover. Don't bother removing the tunnel cover.

[outdoors4evr]

I put this together earlier and thought it would be useful to others as well. This is a 184 clutch replacement procedure.

1) Remove Mower deck
2) Remove side covers and flywheel cover. Tunnel cover can be removed as well, but is not required.
3) Unhook steering shaft at rear and rotate out of way
4) Unhook clutch fork adjustment rod at and remove the clutch fork (PAY ATTENTION TO WHICH SIDE IS FRONT)
5) Use a 3/4" open end to move the belt tensioner in and slip the PTO belts off toward the front of tractor (unloading tensioner spring)
6) Remove the rockshaft and tensioner spring - A floor jack helps lower it without injury (This is greasy, need lots of towels)
7) Use Snap Ring Pliers to move snap ring forward on the driveshaft (by the U-Joint carrier)
Loosen 4 allen head set screws on U-Joint and slide it forward off the transmission
9) Slide the driveshaft down, back, and out. (Easiest done from underneath the tractor)
10) Relocate PTO belts off the pulley and slide them back, up, and from the top pull them out of the way. This is a good opportunity to replace these but these MUST be a matched pair. Recommend purchasing FROM IH.
11) Remove screws from the clutch pressure plate and PTO Belt Drive (Easiest done from underneath the tractor)
You can get to 3 screws at a time, rotate engine by hand to access the next 3.
12) Push PTO Belt Drive upward and back to let the clutch and pressure plate fall out the bottom between the PTO Belt Drive Mounts. Then wiggle the PTO Belt drive out the bottom.
13) Remove the flywheel if needed to reface flywheel or to replace the pilot bearing.
--------------------------------------------------

If changing the PTO Belts, you will need to partially disassemble the electric PTO clutch.
Count the exposed bolt threads on the electric PTO and take a picture of it before you disassemble. That way you can thread the bolts back to the same place as it is currently. These are not bolts that you "tighten." Too tight and your PTO won't disconnect. Too loose and your PTO won't stay engaged.
--------------------------------------------------
The reassembly procedure:
Install the pilot bearing and mount the flywheel to the crankshaft and torque to spec. Verify the driveshaft slides into the pilot bearing. Ream the pilot bearing to fit the driveshaft if needed.

Mount the pressure plate loosely to the flywheel with the clutch trapped loosely inside. Install the PTO drive pulley to the flywheel and torque to spec.
Install the PTO belts loosely. Slide the throwout bearing carrier and the u-joint carrier onto the driveshaft. Install the driveshaft making certain that it is fully inserted in the pilot bearing - This takes a bit of time to line up the clutch and pilot bearing as it is impossible to see what you are doing.

The driveshaft with the u-joint carrier should clear the transmission by 1/4" before you slide the u-joint carrier back onto the transmission input shaft. If you have less space, then it probably isn't all the way in the pilot bearing.
Once you have the driveshaft mounted (u-Joint carrier is on the transmission input shaft) push the driveshaft forward into the pilot bearing and tighten the allen head screws on the u-Joint carrier (all 4).

Now go back and tighten down the pressure plate bolts to spec.
Rotate the throwout bearing carrier so that the zerk is on the left side of the tractor (looking forward from the seat) and install the clutch fork.
Adjust fork so that when clutch released, there is a hairs width of space between the throwout and the fingers. The throwout should be able to turn freely when the clutch is released.
I typically connect steering rod and start the tractor, drive it around a bit and adjust the clutch at this point - before putting all the rockshaft parts and the PTO Belt Tensioner back on. If satisfied with the clutch, then button it up.

[1CavRoohauler]

It is probably worth dragging it back to the shop. You will need 20 tools and every one will be a walk back to the shop. The majority of the work is done from underneath the tractor. The only covers that need removed are the right hand side panel (access to the PTO Belt and tensioner) and the flywheel cover. Don't bother removing the tunnel cover.

Ok thanks. For some reason the tractor now does not want to start. No power what so ever. It has a good battery, the lights are not even coming on now either, so that is a tell. I am figuring something behind the dash.

I have the steering wheel soaking in 10w, I cut up milk jug to have that spline sitting in the oil. I tried pulling it off and that was a NOGO. That sucker is stuck on there good.

I’m going to let it soak then hit it with some heat. I already have a replacement steering wheel heading my way.