184 engine rebuild

[Jim Becker]

What does tst do to the retainers? Could a local machine shop do the same thing?

Y'all said tst can do it cheaper but haven't said why.
It's been a few years since I've owned a Cub but if I remember correctly he modifies it so the new one piece seal can be installed as it seals better than the old crankshaft seals did.

He machines the retainer for a good press fit of a new seal with a larger OD than the original seal. The new seal and old seal are the same type.

[BullDAWG]

Thanks Jim.

But now I gotta ask, if they are both the same type of seals why change? Just use old type seal in old seal retainer and newer type seal in newer seal retainer.

[Bob McCarty]

There isn't an "old" seal available that fits the old retainer. It's too small and is loose. No one could find one the right size for a press fit off the shelf, so the fix was to enlarge the bore to accept a larger od seal. The two seals are both lip seals but different od's.

[Jim Becker]

There isn't an "old" seal available that fits the old retainer. It's too small and is loose. No one could find one the right size for a press fit off the shelf, so the fix was to enlarge the bore to accept a larger od seal. The two seals are both lip seals but different od's.

The loose fit is bacause the retainers eventually warp and loosen their grip on the seal. While Tim is reworking them, he also flattens the other two machined surfaces of the retainer and fixes the threads if needed.

[BullDAWG]

Ah, I sea,
Said the ex-NAVYmen.
I remember now. Before tst started doing that the fix was to put loctite red or green on seal. But that's been almost if not over a decade. I'm lucky if I can remember what I ate 3 days ago lol

[rednax]

I got my retainer back and I'm going to get the shims from the case dealer tomorrow. The guy at the dealer said that only 7 were available. Also, where should I get head bolts? I don't see them at hamiltonbobs anymore and they are way too expensive through the dealer. Would grade 8 bolts work fine?
I also started painting the frame last night, however I made the mistake of not covering the threads on nuts welded to the frame. I was told that I should prime the threads but not paint them. How can I do it if I put the paint on while the primer is wet?
Thanks!

[outdoors4evr]

I'd just paint the threads. Any good nut will peel that paint right off when removed.

[Gary Dotson]

Grade 8 bolts will generally work but torque spec is a little more than grade 8 is rated for. Many have stepped up to grade 9. MaMaster Carr Carrie’s them. You won’t find the exact length of the old ones, you’ll have to do a little grinding. Sometimes I just use a thick, hardened washer, instead.

[rednax]

I just got the grade 8 bolts from tractor supply, and from what I read online it looks like I'll only be able to tighten them to 44 ft-lbs but it's fine because they are supposed to be 45 ft-lbs. Should I tighten them a little less to keep them below the rating or will they be fine at 44?

[Gary Dotson]

44 should be close enough.

[rednax]

Is the ignition drive oil seal supposed to be a really tight fit? I'm having a hard time getting it in. I put a piece of wood on the seal and some thick steel bar on the other side of the block and used all thread to tighten it up, but the seal will barely move.

[rednax]

I got the whole tractor together and am ready to start it. since the hydraulic lines are dry, I am worried about running the hydraulic pump without any oil in it. Is there a way to prime the hydraulic pump before starting it? I’m saw that some people were saying to lift and lower the hydraulics but I’m worried about doing that when I haven’t broken the engine in yet. What should I do?

Here’s a picture of the tractor so far

[outdoors4evr]

No worries about priming the hydraulic pump. It will not be dry for long. If you want, you can pour some Hytran into the lines to prime it, but it isn't required.
Also, the hydraulic pump doesn't load the engine significantly. Cycling the hydraulics won't hurt the engine break-in.