Cub 154 Will Not Move - Need Help with this, video attached

[AL Farmall Boy]

Got a bit of an issue with a 154 LoBoy. Never have really worked on these tractor except for a 184 one time, which is a totally different animal, so I don't really know what is going on here. Watch the video, as I need help with what is wrong and how to repair it. It was pulling well under its own power but with alot of noise in the driveline. All of a sudden while idling one day, it made a loud BANG, and I noticed after that it will not pull under its own power. Something is going on in the clutch/driveline area. I have seen sparks in there and you can see where the pressure plate is hitting something. Not sure why it isn't pulling. Please help, the grass is growing!!

https://youtu.be/Sh2lubwbzXc

[Eugene]

Sheared pin/bolt holding the flywheel to the transmission input shaft.

[Jim Becker]

Eugene has identified the most likely reason for it not driving. It is obvious that the pressure plate is hitting something that is causing some if not all the noise. As much as it has been hitting, the place it has hit must have some visible marks. It looks to me like it is the clutch brake linkage directly above the pressure plate. That linkage looks like it is sagging down. Straightening that linkage will probably fix it. If not, that needs doing anyway. The two springs obviously need replacing. Good springs should take a lot of the sag out. Maybe the long bolt is bent adding to the problem. The rest of the pins etc. may be loose and need replacing and/or the wear needs to be taken out of the pin holes.

[AL Farmall Boy]

Ok. Sounds like I need to remove the fenders and seat to see the problem areas better, and also look at a parts breakdown to get an idea of what I'm up against. Doesn't sound as bad as I thought.

[Eugene]

Service manual has outstanding pictorals of the 154's main clutch drive line.

Agree with Jim. Viewed the Youtube link before my initial post. Thought it would take a bit of work to get the main clutch back into decent shape.

Service and parts manual needed.

[AL Farmall Boy]

The owner told me he replaced the clutch 2 years ago. I'll dig deeper and see what is hitting and go from there. It did sound like something had sheared or broken so that part makes sense.

[Eugene]

Also check the installation of the pressure plate to the flywheel. Lock washers installed between the pressure plate and flywheel.

[AL Farmall Boy]

Also check the installation of the pressure plate to the flywheel. Lock washers installed between the pressure plate and flywheel.

This setup has the clutch and pressure plate installed under the operator. There is a flywheel/counterweight bolted to the rear of the engine and the driveshaft is bolted to that via a cross flange. I'm still needing to remove the seat surround and fenders so I can get a better look at everything, so maybe I'm missing something. ?

[Eugene]

I'm still needing to remove the seat surround and fenders so I can get a better look at everything.

This is going to be a might as well while you are there.

Jacked up the rear of my 154. Removed the balloon tires to get to the bolts to remove the sheet metal. Pulled the finals to check the brakes and change gear oil in the finals. Repaired the creeper. Repaired the PTO and moved the battery ground cable from sheet metal to the transmission. Repaired the engine clutch.

Out of pocket cost was minimal, lot of no cost labor.

[AL Farmall Boy]

I was looking at the manual but can't really tell what could be sheared causing it not to move. Would it be the bolt on the shaft that is directly behind the flywheel/counterweight off the back of the engine?

[Jim Becker]

Yes, the bolt you just described is likely sheared.

I believe the part you are calling "flywheel/counterweight" is listed in the parts catalog as a pressure plate. That is a bit confusing as the part on the other side of the clutch disk is also called a pressure plate. In any case, the pressure plate that is to the rear of the clutch disk is mounted directly on the transmission input shaft. It is held on the shaft by a 5/16 bolt. I think easrly tractors used a 5/16 pin. Either way, it is probably sheared.

[Duner]

If your 5/16" pin bolt that attaches the real flywheel is missing, broken or other. When you replace and tighten the pinch bolt pay attention to the rear flywheel run out. .004 inch works quite good, .010 some clutch chatter. .030 lots of shatter. That is the way it works for me anyway. I have been down this road with my 154. If you have a pin and not a pinch bolt I am not familiar with that set up. If you need a new rear flywheel due to wear spinning on shaft and run loose, I think there are flywheels wheels made of cast iron and cast steel. I choose the cast steel hoping It had enough give to tighten the pinch bolt.

[AL Farmall Boy]

Working on getting the sheetmetal off during lunch break today and I grabbed the driveshaft and there is a ton of play on the rear end. I'm thinking the bushing in the rear clutch flywheel is missing. You can move driveshaft up and down about 1/2 inch.

[AL Farmall Boy]

Are my eyes fooling me or am I looking at a broken driveshaft? Unless there’s something that splits into a coupling , it’s hard to see. I do see the bolt in there.

[Eugene]

Engine off, put tractor in 3rd gear and see if you can roll the tractor a couple of feet. Checking for transmission locked in two gears.

From photo, appears shaft is broken. That's really strange.