154 convert to Electric PTO

[Duner]

It seems to me I found in a search at one time a good article with pictures about converting to elec. PTO
I can not find that article and have searched for a long time. Am I dreaming or was it a different site?
Thank you.

[outdoors4evr]

Not very expensive to upgrade from a 154 to a 184.
Attachments are compatible between the two tractors.

[gitractorman]

I don't think there's any easy way to convert the 154 to an electric PTO. I think you would have to get the whole PTO assembly from a 184, and even then I think the flywheels are different where the belt drives the PTO. I've not had both apart, next to each other, so I'm not sure. Either way, I don't think it's an easy project.

[Duner]

Thanks for the replies. I am sort of married to this thing. I got it last winter and have fixed the generator/starter, six new tie rod ends, new pin and steel bushing for the steering lever arm, clutch plate , working on a scheme for loose drive shaft at front
hub to rear of engine. PTO has been welded solid so am thinking about Electric PTO. Picked up a Rockford PTO and a electric clutch from a commercial Toro. Pulley on electric clutch is 1/2 inch smaller than original 154. I would have to make a new shaft from double V belt at rear of engine to rear of tractor. Electric clutch would be mounted at rear of tractor. That is the tentative plan anyway. Some where in my internet travels I did find pictures of a rear mounted elec. PTO. When I found the elec PTO pictures I was more concerned with other problems on tractor.

[gitractorman]

Ok, thinking about this a bit more, and after hearing your situation, I think there is a way to do it with the parts you have. If your PTO clutch has been welded, I think I would pull the PTO drive shaft out, and disconnect, cut, etc., whatever has been welded. It sounds like you want to run the PTO clutch right on the back of the tractor, to use that pulley? I'm not so sure that is a good idea, since it will change the PTO speed for the mower deck (if that's what you're planning to run) and would prevent you from being able to change out the PTO pulley for different implements.

There are a couple of ways to go about this, but I'm going to just go through one that I think is best. I think I would get the PTO drive shaft cut and machined down to fit the new PTO clutch that you have. That clutch probably was on a vertical shaft engine, with a 1" keyed shaft, so I'd take both parts to a machine shop and have them machine the drive shaft to allow for installation of the clutch just like it was when installed on an engine (machined to proper diameter, keyed, then drilled/tapped so that the end bolt can be used). I'd also have them weld/machine a fitting so that the pulley side of the PTO clutch will drive the original PTO shaft out the back of the tractor. This will take some precise measuring, but in the end it's probably the best way to go. They will likely have to machine or use a cup shaped adaptor, which is open on 2 sides, to allow you to install and tighten the end bolt that holds the PTO clutch pulley on the drive shaft. The last part will be a bracket you will have to fabricate to hold the PTO clutch in the correct place in the tractor, preventing it from spinning. This will probably be an L shaped bracket of sorts that will allow you to bolt the clutch to it, then bolt the bracket to the tractor frame or sheet metal somewhere. Once all of this is done, the last part is the wiring. Pretty easy, PTO clutches are grounded through the body of the clutch, so all you need is a hot 12-v wire through a switch.

With this setup, the PTO clutch should be hidden under the tinwork of the seat support, just like the old PTO clutch, and it will still utilize the factory V belts off the engine, and will still allow you to use the factory PTO splined shaft and interchangeable pulleys/attachments.

Now that I've thought this through, it's actually a project that I'd be interested in doing. I'll have to keep this in mind with the next 154 that I get, since the factory PTO clutch is a real pain in the rear.

Good luck,
Bill

[Duner]

Thank you for taking time to think about this.
What I am to say does not imply your plan will not work .
My PTO clutch is needs about 8 inches of room so space is a concern.
Bu attaching a hub, forces may be applied that the PTO bearing was not designed for, this maybe
could be overcome by adding a support bearing . I am thinking side forces .
My original plan calls for an all new shaft from pulley near engine and out the back where splined shaft is..
PTO clutch would be mounted where the splined shaft is now. I would loose the splined shaft entirely but not a problem for me
as I only need to run mower from PTO.
My Elec. clutch pulley is 1/2 inch smaller that existing pulley so I will loose about 7% blade speed. I think I can attach a larger pulley if necessary but more monkey business.

Thanks!

[frankencub185]

I'm kind of late to the party on this, but we converted our 185 to an electric pto clutch. We mow with the tractor regularly so I wanted a reliable fix and this ended up not being much more expensive. It's been two years, but I remember researching cost for the 184 clutch and decided to go straight to Warner and found cheaper, better options. Went with a heavy clutch from a commercial 60" mower. A friend fabbed a whole new shaft. It works great and seems bulletproof. The only thing I'd recommend considering is the power needed for a heavier clutch...the generator couldn't keep up. We went to a gm alternator and ignition and switched to a cub tractor ring gear starter. It was more work than planned, but I'm happy to be rid of the starter/generator set up, too.

[Duner]

Sorry I am late to replying but got tangled up with other projects.
I like the sound of what you did and will keep it in mind.
Thank you.

[BigBill]

It's easy to rebuild the orginal pto. Parts on eBay Bob's Cubs.

I needed the two bearings for the pto engagement. Easy fix.

[Duner]

Well I did get new shaft made with 50 inch Toro walk behind clutch install at the rear of tractor and for 2 hours constant mowing it works so far.
I still use a B124 main/mule drive belt that came with tractor and have plenty of adjustment left to tighten. Will this be a roaring success 10 years from now I just don't know but it is nice it at least works so far. I still have some tin work and wiring to do.

[toehead]

pictures??

[Duner]

I probably put 30-40 hours on my set up now with out problems. My starter generator keeps up fine with my electric clutch.
My battery is a U1 from small riding mower that is going on 2 years old.

[toehead]

My PTO clutch used for my FEL just went (slipping under load). Any info you have on your solution would be appreciated. (Pictures/part number of the clutch, etc)

[Landreo]

You can adjust the old PTO clutch to stop from slipping.

[Duner]

toehead, read the post by gitractorman above, That might suit your needs better than my fix. My clutch is on the extreme end of shaft so all I can do is run my mower. Mine has a one piece shaft with same bearing size front and rear. I think my shaft is 1.250 inch 50 inches long. I wanted a little wiggle room
on length. Anchor bolt is attached to rear bracket that hold rear bearing. I found a used clutch at local dealer for not much money. I was told it was from a Toro 50 inch commercial walk behind . I wish I know the part number or the model it was from.