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Restoration of a work Cub
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- 5+ Years
- Posts: 543
- Joined: Wed Nov 02, 2016 7:25 pm
- Zip Code: 24151
- Tractors Owned: 53 Cub
59 cub - Circle of Safety: Y
- Location: Rocky Mount VA
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- 10+ Years
- Posts: 6157
- Joined: Mon Mar 19, 2012 7:33 pm
- Zip Code: 00000
- Tractors Owned: 1956 Farmall Cub with Fast Hitch, F-11 plow, Disc, Cultivator, Cub-22 mower
- Circle of Safety: Y
- Location: Wa.
Re: Restoration of a work Cub
Hi,
The Cub looks really good in your pics.
There are 2 bearings on the long clutch shaft, in the transmission. They commonly wear and get noisy, and you hear the noise when the engine is running, and it is in neutral with the shaft turning.
The front bearing is a ball bearing, pressed onto the shaft, it is usually tight on the shaft.
The rear bearing is a roller bearing, and is tight in the case, the shaft slides out of it. The shaft goes out forward from the transmission to remove it.
Below are listings for the bearings at TM Tractor.
http://www.tmtractor.com/new/tr/521fp.htm
http://www.tmtractor.com/new/tr/128fp.htm
There is an oil seal and seal retainer at the front of the trans on the clutch shaft. The newer ones are made together. Be sure to put it on with the bulged side facing to the rear, or into the trans, it holds the front bearing, and shaft, to the rear.
People have had problems with the PTO slipping out of engagement because the retainer was put on backwards by someone.
Below is a listing for a new retainer, you can see the bulge in the bottom pic.
http://www.tmtractor.com/new/tr/431fp.htm
Below is a recent post where I wrote about removing the final drives, and repairing the brakes, and replacing the oil seals, my post is part way down the page.
viewtopic.php?f=1&t=103038&p=815640
The Cub looks really good in your pics.
There are 2 bearings on the long clutch shaft, in the transmission. They commonly wear and get noisy, and you hear the noise when the engine is running, and it is in neutral with the shaft turning.
The front bearing is a ball bearing, pressed onto the shaft, it is usually tight on the shaft.
The rear bearing is a roller bearing, and is tight in the case, the shaft slides out of it. The shaft goes out forward from the transmission to remove it.
Below are listings for the bearings at TM Tractor.
http://www.tmtractor.com/new/tr/521fp.htm
http://www.tmtractor.com/new/tr/128fp.htm
There is an oil seal and seal retainer at the front of the trans on the clutch shaft. The newer ones are made together. Be sure to put it on with the bulged side facing to the rear, or into the trans, it holds the front bearing, and shaft, to the rear.
People have had problems with the PTO slipping out of engagement because the retainer was put on backwards by someone.
Below is a listing for a new retainer, you can see the bulge in the bottom pic.
http://www.tmtractor.com/new/tr/431fp.htm
Below is a recent post where I wrote about removing the final drives, and repairing the brakes, and replacing the oil seals, my post is part way down the page.
viewtopic.php?f=1&t=103038&p=815640
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- 5+ Years
- Posts: 27
- Joined: Thu Jul 05, 2018 10:22 am
- Zip Code: 53224
- Tractors Owned: 1947 Cub
John Deer 450C Dozer
Kubota SVL 90-2 Skid Steer
Re: Restoration of a work Cub
Super A,
The jack I use is the Curt Manufacturing 28258 that I got from Amazon ($50), but it comes with a flat bottom pad that I cut off and replace with the Dual Wheel assembly you see in the pictures. The dual wheel assembly is a Libra 26038 also off amazon. I have access to a CNC plasma table and I drew up the mount, but I only had 3/16" steel for the first one I made. that is why you see that it is edge welded together. I made a second one out of 5/8' steel that I put on the other side, along with the one from the pictures above, to keep the tractor from flipping over on me with the back end jacked up.
The jack I use is the Curt Manufacturing 28258 that I got from Amazon ($50), but it comes with a flat bottom pad that I cut off and replace with the Dual Wheel assembly you see in the pictures. The dual wheel assembly is a Libra 26038 also off amazon. I have access to a CNC plasma table and I drew up the mount, but I only had 3/16" steel for the first one I made. that is why you see that it is edge welded together. I made a second one out of 5/8' steel that I put on the other side, along with the one from the pictures above, to keep the tractor from flipping over on me with the back end jacked up.
If it ain't broke....give me a minute.
-
- 5+ Years
- Posts: 27
- Joined: Thu Jul 05, 2018 10:22 am
- Zip Code: 53224
- Tractors Owned: 1947 Cub
John Deer 450C Dozer
Kubota SVL 90-2 Skid Steer
Re: Restoration of a work Cub
Pictures with the back end jacked up.
If it ain't broke....give me a minute.
-
- 5+ Years
- Posts: 27
- Joined: Thu Jul 05, 2018 10:22 am
- Zip Code: 53224
- Tractors Owned: 1947 Cub
John Deer 450C Dozer
Kubota SVL 90-2 Skid Steer
Re: Restoration of a work Cub
Thanks for all the recommendations for tearing the backend apart. I am flipping through the parts break down to see what I am going to see (or supposed to see) once I get the finals off. sounds like I may have to separate the tractor again to replace the front shaft support bearing. I also have some seepage from the bottom cover of the touch control reservoir. I didn't put any silicone on that part, but did put in a new gasket when I rebuilt the unit and torqued it to spec. I was worried that some silicone may come loose and end up blocking a port.
If it ain't broke....give me a minute.
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- 10+ Years
- Posts: 6688
- Joined: Tue Apr 27, 2010 11:34 am
- Zip Code: 27517
- Tractors Owned: '51 Cub #140966 "Bruno" with Woods 59 mower
'55 Cub #187541 "Betty" with Fast Hitch
'55 Cub #190482 "Ben" with Woods 42 mower
'55 Cub #191739 "Bertha" with Woods 42 mower
'56 Cub #194370 "Boris" with Mott Flail mower - Circle of Safety: Y
- Location: NC, Chapel Hill
Re: Restoration of a work Cub
As for the TC Block, check first to make sure the 3/8" square socket pipe plug (horizontal in that lower bulge on the back of the head) is good and tight. The last one I rebuilt, leaked a little and that was where it was coming from. Just a possibility, and the simplest!
-
- 5+ Years
- Posts: 27
- Joined: Thu Jul 05, 2018 10:22 am
- Zip Code: 53224
- Tractors Owned: 1947 Cub
John Deer 450C Dozer
Kubota SVL 90-2 Skid Steer
-
- 5+ Years
- Posts: 27
- Joined: Thu Jul 05, 2018 10:22 am
- Zip Code: 53224
- Tractors Owned: 1947 Cub
John Deer 450C Dozer
Kubota SVL 90-2 Skid Steer
Re: Restoration of a work Cub
Stupid squirrels! That's sunflower seeds and bedding in the axel tube in the pictures above. Any one ever find a way to keep them out of there?
Last edited by Ahab01 on Mon Feb 11, 2019 9:45 am, edited 1 time in total.
If it ain't broke....give me a minute.
-
- 5+ Years
- Posts: 27
- Joined: Thu Jul 05, 2018 10:22 am
- Zip Code: 53224
- Tractors Owned: 1947 Cub
John Deer 450C Dozer
Kubota SVL 90-2 Skid Steer
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- 5+ Years
- Posts: 4908
- Joined: Wed Nov 22, 2017 6:24 am
- Zip Code: 00000
- Tractors Owned: .
1970 International 140
1972 International 140
1949 John Deere A
1993 Ford 4630 W/Loader
1965 John Deere 110
1961 Cub Cadet Original - Circle of Safety: Y
Re: Restoration of a work Cub
Ahab01 wrote:Stupid squirrels! That's sunflower seeds and bedding in the axel tube.
Mice, squirrels wouldn't fit through the brake hole. They are bad about getting in the clutch area as well if the inspection cover is missing.
Every home is a school, what are you teaching?
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- Team Cub Mentor
- Posts: 17498
- Joined: Mon Feb 03, 2003 6:45 am
- Zip Code: 21550
- Tractors Owned: "1950 Something" Farmall Cub
1957 Farmall Cub w/FH
1977 International Cub w/FH
1978 International Cub
1948 Farmall Super A - Circle of Safety: Y
- Location: MD, Deep Creek Lake
Re: Restoration of a work Cub
I'm hoping that front axle is wedged.
-
- 5+ Years
- Posts: 27
- Joined: Thu Jul 05, 2018 10:22 am
- Zip Code: 53224
- Tractors Owned: 1947 Cub
John Deer 450C Dozer
Kubota SVL 90-2 Skid Steer
Re: Restoration of a work Cub
I'm hoping that front axle is wedged.
Don,
The two 5000# trailer jacks attached to either side of the bell housing implement mount pads are acting like out riggers. Both have pressure on them to keep it from flipping and are also holding up the backend. I also added one of the wheel weights to the front end to keep it more stable. I have read several precautionary threads on this forum and this was my devised plan to keep from having my own "flipping event". Thanks for looking out for me though and please let me know if you see anything else I may be missing!
If it ain't broke....give me a minute.
-
- 10+ Years
- Posts: 6157
- Joined: Mon Mar 19, 2012 7:33 pm
- Zip Code: 00000
- Tractors Owned: 1956 Farmall Cub with Fast Hitch, F-11 plow, Disc, Cultivator, Cub-22 mower
- Circle of Safety: Y
- Location: Wa.
Re: Restoration of a work Cub
Hi,
Below is a pic of how the experts on here recommend wedging the front axle pivot.
Below is a pic of how the experts on here recommend wedging the front axle pivot.
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