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Crankshaft pulley moved forward
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1948 Farmall Cub #56596
1950 Farmall Cub #101608
1950 Farmall Cub #106823
1955 Farmall Cub #188789 - Location: NC, Pilot Mountain
Crankshaft pulley moved forward
Fired up the cub for a little spin around the yard and heard a clanging noise upfront when headed downhill to the tractor shed. Upon inspection this is what I found. I used a pry bar to move backwards. It moved easily, but I do not know why it moved.
Any help will be appreciated!
Thanks,
Gary
Any help will be appreciated!
Thanks,
Gary
Last edited by Clubless on Wed Apr 24, 2019 8:13 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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LT1045 Cub Cadet - Circle of Safety: Y
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Re: Crankshaft pulley moved forward
My first comment is that the front pulley should not “move easily” back to its installed position on the drive shaft. This is a press fit over a keyway and should require a good bit of force to get it to its final condition. I wonder if there could be an improper fit between the crankshaft OD and ID of the crank pulley.
Do you think the noise was due to the fan blades making contact with the fan belt?
Do you think the noise was due to the fan blades making contact with the fan belt?
Bill VanHooser
Cub 54 Blade, Cub 193 Moldboard Plow, Cub 28A Disc Harrow
Cub 54 Blade, Cub 193 Moldboard Plow, Cub 28A Disc Harrow
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- 5+ Years
- Posts: 179
- Joined: Wed Nov 04, 2015 5:43 pm
- Zip Code: 27041
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1948 Farmall Cub #56596
1950 Farmall Cub #101608
1950 Farmall Cub #106823
1955 Farmall Cub #188789 - Location: NC, Pilot Mountain
Re: Crankshaft pulley moved forward
Bill,
I will determine what is making the clanging noise tomorrow. Is there a set screw on the pulley or is it just pressed on?
Thanks,
Gary
I will determine what is making the clanging noise tomorrow. Is there a set screw on the pulley or is it just pressed on?
Thanks,
Gary
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- 10+ Years
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LT1045 Cub Cadet - Circle of Safety: Y
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Re: Crankshaft pulley moved forward
Clubless wrote:Bill,
I will determine what is making the clanging noise tomorrow. Is there a set screw on the pulley or is it just pressed on?
Thanks,
Gary
No set screw, just pressed on. Check out this post:
http://www.farmallcub.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=81462&p=662957&hilit=Crankshaft+pulley+Reinstall#p662957
Bill VanHooser
Cub 54 Blade, Cub 193 Moldboard Plow, Cub 28A Disc Harrow
Cub 54 Blade, Cub 193 Moldboard Plow, Cub 28A Disc Harrow
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- 5+ Years
- Posts: 179
- Joined: Wed Nov 04, 2015 5:43 pm
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- Tractors Owned: ---------
1948 Farmall Cub #56596
1950 Farmall Cub #101608
1950 Farmall Cub #106823
1955 Farmall Cub #188789 - Location: NC, Pilot Mountain
Re: Crankshaft pulley moved forward
Bill,
Would JB Weld hold pulley in place?
Would JB Weld hold pulley in place?
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LT1045 Cub Cadet - Circle of Safety: Y
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Re: Crankshaft pulley moved forward
Clubless wrote:Bill,
Would JB Weld hold pulley in place?
Gary,
If the fit is loose enough to need that, I do no believe JB Weld will help.
Bill VanHooser
Cub 54 Blade, Cub 193 Moldboard Plow, Cub 28A Disc Harrow
Cub 54 Blade, Cub 193 Moldboard Plow, Cub 28A Disc Harrow
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Re: Crankshaft pulley moved forward
My son's cub was taken to a machine shop with the pulley still on. They didn't realize it was a press fit, so once off, they skimmed the crankshaft to provide a slip fit. His cub also had the clanging noise, which was the timing gears behind the front cover. Realizing the from pulley had moved and was now a slip fit, I drilled and tapped the pulley for a set screw. No problems since. I strongly suggest you do the same, or else it will require a replacement crankshaft. If you don't know why it's loose, might be worth making some measurements, as maybe a new pulley would fix it.
Note, I did add a small ground flat on the crankshaft to help hold it, giving the set screw a place to bite, and insuring the pulley will still come off someday.
Note, I did add a small ground flat on the crankshaft to help hold it, giving the set screw a place to bite, and insuring the pulley will still come off someday.
Rick Spivey
'52 Cub ("Great Personality") 148xxx
'48 Cub with FH ("Gunny Cub") 38xxx
'57 Lambretta (a slow work in progress)
'74 Triumph TR6 (Mama's toy)
'52 Cub ("Great Personality") 148xxx
'48 Cub with FH ("Gunny Cub") 38xxx
'57 Lambretta (a slow work in progress)
'74 Triumph TR6 (Mama's toy)
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- 5+ Years
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- Joined: Wed Nov 04, 2015 5:43 pm
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- Tractors Owned: ---------
1948 Farmall Cub #56596
1950 Farmall Cub #101608
1950 Farmall Cub #106823
1955 Farmall Cub #188789 - Location: NC, Pilot Mountain
Re: Crankshaft pulley moved forward
Rick,
I had read your post on this issue earlier this evening and was considering your fix as a possible fix for my issue. As for the clanging noise I suspect you are correct. I could not see fan hitting shroud or anything else with engine running.
Were you able to remove pulley off without removing radiator?
Gary
I had read your post on this issue earlier this evening and was considering your fix as a possible fix for my issue. As for the clanging noise I suspect you are correct. I could not see fan hitting shroud or anything else with engine running.
Were you able to remove pulley off without removing radiator?
Gary
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Re: Crankshaft pulley moved forward
Clubless wrote:Rick,
I had read your post on this issue earlier this evening and was considering your fix as a possible fix for my issue. As for the clanging noise I suspect you are correct. I could not see fan hitting shroud or anything else with engine running.
Were you able to remove pulley off without removing radiator?
Gary
I did not attempt the fix without removing the front end of the tractor at the bolster. I wanted good access considering the repair required a bit of care. I think I drilled and tapped the pulley, slid it on, and used the set screw to make a light mark on the crank, then slid it all off and ground the flat spot. Splitting at the bolster is easier than removing just the radiator, and the bolster would remain in your way somewhat; that may have been what you meant in your question when you said radiator......
Rick Spivey
'52 Cub ("Great Personality") 148xxx
'48 Cub with FH ("Gunny Cub") 38xxx
'57 Lambretta (a slow work in progress)
'74 Triumph TR6 (Mama's toy)
'52 Cub ("Great Personality") 148xxx
'48 Cub with FH ("Gunny Cub") 38xxx
'57 Lambretta (a slow work in progress)
'74 Triumph TR6 (Mama's toy)
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- 5+ Years
- Posts: 179
- Joined: Wed Nov 04, 2015 5:43 pm
- Zip Code: 27041
- Tractors Owned: ---------
1948 Farmall Cub #56596
1950 Farmall Cub #101608
1950 Farmall Cub #106823
1955 Farmall Cub #188789 - Location: NC, Pilot Mountain
Re: Crankshaft pulley moved forward
Rick,
Yes, I meant to say “without removing front end”. On the positive side, I need to replace gaskets and seals on bolster to stop gear oil leaking from steering box. I will search for a good thread on “how to” remove bolster and replace seals and order parts.
Thanks,
Gary
Yes, I meant to say “without removing front end”. On the positive side, I need to replace gaskets and seals on bolster to stop gear oil leaking from steering box. I will search for a good thread on “how to” remove bolster and replace seals and order parts.
Thanks,
Gary
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Re: Crankshaft pulley moved forward
Does the pulley appear to have a speedy sleeve on it? I question if the pulley has cracked along the keyway slot to loosen the interference fit?
Frank
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1948 Farmall Cub #56596
1950 Farmall Cub #101608
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1955 Farmall Cub #188789 - Location: NC, Pilot Mountain
Re: Crankshaft pulley moved forward
Frank thanks for your suggestion I will check for a crack and let you know what I find
Gary
Gary
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- 5+ Years
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1948 Farmall Cub #56596
1950 Farmall Cub #101608
1950 Farmall Cub #106823
1955 Farmall Cub #188789 - Location: NC, Pilot Mountain
Re: Crankshaft pulley moved forward
I removed fan and fan shroud this morning to see if the pulley would slide off crankshaft without removing bolster and I was able to do that.
Here are couple of things I noticed when doing this:
(1) The fan assembly was replaced by PO as it is new in appearance.
(2) There were 2 thick washers and 2 thin washers in between the dog-ears and front nut on fan shaft, which had the fan/generator pulleys further out than what I think would be normal. (My other cubs have no washers or just 1 thick washer). Could the fan pulley being so much forward caused the pulley to work loose and move forward?
(3) Pulley is not cracked.
(4) Keyway not wallowed out.
(5) It appears to me that the pulley has a speedy-sleeve on it. (perhaps some of you can confirm that from the pictures below.
(6) I measured the depth of the pulley from front to the inside shoulder of the pulley. It appears to be 2 inches.
As aside note, I have owned this cub for 4 years and have used it sparingly to mow (first year), then afterwards to plow my wife's flower bed. I don't anticipate doing much more than that in the future.
With that said, I would like to make a solid repair but not to the extent of replacing crankshaft. I am leaning towards Rick's repair method using setscrew(s) and maybe some Loctite for good measure.
Hope you guys chine in on what you would do to fix this issue.
Thanks,
Gary
Here are couple of things I noticed when doing this:
(1) The fan assembly was replaced by PO as it is new in appearance.
(2) There were 2 thick washers and 2 thin washers in between the dog-ears and front nut on fan shaft, which had the fan/generator pulleys further out than what I think would be normal. (My other cubs have no washers or just 1 thick washer). Could the fan pulley being so much forward caused the pulley to work loose and move forward?
(3) Pulley is not cracked.
(4) Keyway not wallowed out.
(5) It appears to me that the pulley has a speedy-sleeve on it. (perhaps some of you can confirm that from the pictures below.
(6) I measured the depth of the pulley from front to the inside shoulder of the pulley. It appears to be 2 inches.
As aside note, I have owned this cub for 4 years and have used it sparingly to mow (first year), then afterwards to plow my wife's flower bed. I don't anticipate doing much more than that in the future.
With that said, I would like to make a solid repair but not to the extent of replacing crankshaft. I am leaning towards Rick's repair method using setscrew(s) and maybe some Loctite for good measure.
Hope you guys chine in on what you would do to fix this issue.
Thanks,
Gary
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Re: Crankshaft pulley moved forward
That's the same problem that I have on my A! ---Somewhere along it's life, it had a set screw put in, That didn't hold, so I drilled a bigger set screw 180 degrees from the small one, that didn't hold either, so I came to the conclusion that the end of crankshaft is worn off too much.
You might get by with the setscrew idea on yours along with grinding a flat for the setscrew to grab behind.---- not a real fix, but short of installing a good crankshaft , it's worth a try.
Another idea I had was to drill/thread a 5/8 bolt into the end of the crank and put big washers to help along with the setscrews. I can't drill the A without taking the front axle/steering unit off to be able to get a drill in there.
My neighbor said to weld the pulley on and advertise the tractor!!!!--- NEVER would I do that. The A is one of my fav. tractors, and I want to be able to use it again!
I can't think of any other ideas, so good luck on the cub! sonny
You might get by with the setscrew idea on yours along with grinding a flat for the setscrew to grab behind.---- not a real fix, but short of installing a good crankshaft , it's worth a try.
Another idea I had was to drill/thread a 5/8 bolt into the end of the crank and put big washers to help along with the setscrews. I can't drill the A without taking the front axle/steering unit off to be able to get a drill in there.
My neighbor said to weld the pulley on and advertise the tractor!!!!--- NEVER would I do that. The A is one of my fav. tractors, and I want to be able to use it again!
I can't think of any other ideas, so good luck on the cub! sonny
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Re: Crankshaft pulley moved forward
I doubt that misalignment of the pulleys caused it to move. More likely it was already that much out of line and the PO added washers to get the pulleys in line. It does have a wear sleeve. I wonder if the pulley was never put completely in place when it was last installed. I might try a test fitting to see if it tightens up reasonably well if installed all the way.
Deciding how to successfully reuse parts that are out of spec is always a challenge and the results can be a crap shoot. However, I'm thinking this direction:
There is a version of lock-tite that is intended for use on press fits that aren't tight enough. I would probably use that. Additionally, I might consider adding a setscrew positioned to come down on top of the key.
I'm sure others will have some suggestions as good or better than mine.
Deciding how to successfully reuse parts that are out of spec is always a challenge and the results can be a crap shoot. However, I'm thinking this direction:
There is a version of lock-tite that is intended for use on press fits that aren't tight enough. I would probably use that. Additionally, I might consider adding a setscrew positioned to come down on top of the key.
I'm sure others will have some suggestions as good or better than mine.
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