Governor question

[Jack]

Thank you, I have that manual downloaded, and I have an IH manual on hand

[Glen]

Hi,
Below are pics from TM Tractor of the timing marks on the gears.

The 1st pic shows the governor gear timing mark, on the left side of the pic.
The 2nd pic shows the idler gear timing mark, on the right side of the pic. The idler gear mark is on the rear facing side of the gear.

Here is some info for installing the seal.
Clean the surface on the governor gear that the oil seal runs on, sand it with fine sandpaper if it is rough.
If it has a groove worn in it, try to position the seal slightly differently, so it runs on an unworn place on the gear surface.

Use something round, slightly smaller than the outside of the seal to put on the seal to hammer it into position. Don't hammer directly on a new oil seal.

Be sure the seal lip is facing ahead when you put it in.
Oil the gear surface, and seal lip before putting the gear surface through the seal.
Be sure the seal lip does not turn backwards when putting the gear surface through it.

[Jack]

Hi,
Below are pics from TM Tractor of the timing marks on the gears.

The 1st pic shows the governor gear timing mark, on the left side of the pic.
The 2nd pic shows the idler gear timing mark, on the right side of the pic. The idler gear mark is on the rear facing side of the gear.

Here is some info for installing the seal.
Clean the surface on the governor gear that the oil seal runs on, sand it with fine sandpaper if it is rough.
If it has a groove worn in it, try to position the seal slightly differently, so it runs on an unworn place on the gear surface.

Use something round, slightly smaller than the outside of the seal to put on the seal to hammer it into position. Don't hammer directly on a new oil seal.

Be sure the seal lip is facing ahead when you put it in.
Oil the gear surface, and seal lip before putting the gear surface through the seal.
Be sure the seal lip does not turn backwards when putting the gear surface through it.

Thank you glen

[Jack]

I had bought a governor spring lever from hamiltonbobs, th didn't have it. But anyways I put it on the cover attached the spring, then I put the cover on . Has I was attaching the throttle linkage to the governor I noticed when I put it through the hole. In the arm I wasn't able to get a sitter pin in.
Then when I was attempting to adjust the carb to governor linkage, the throttle spring lever was up against the fan pulley.

Has anyone else had this issure?
Or is there something I need to do to the aftermarket lever
Thanks
Jack

[Jack]

I figured out , I need the short lever #465R2 any ideas where I can find one

[Glen]

Hi,
Yes, a 1955 Cub uses the shorter throttle arm.
Some companies sell them with 2 holes for the throttle rod from the throttle lever, so the same arm works for the long or short arm.
You didn't say if yours has 2 holes, or 1 hole.

If you have clearance problems with the arm and the generator pulley, on the fan hub, it could be the length of fan belt you are using.

The new fan belts I buy at Case IH make the fan shaft a little less than half way up the slot in the engine front cover that the fan mounts on, when the belt is tightened the right amount.
They don't use the bottom area of the slot, except to slide the fan down to loosen the belt, to remove it, or replace it.
It could be something else is causing the problem, hard to say without being there, or seeing a pic.

[Jack]

The throttle lever has just one hole, it is definitely smaller than the one I bought with two holes
I didn't have any problems before, I didn't remove any of the belts or pulleys

[Glen]

Hi,
The pic of the new arm at Hamilton Bob's website shows the new arm has 2 holes for the rod.
If yours looks the same as the pic, if necessary you could cut off the top hole area of the new arm, and grind it smooth, and shape it like the original arm, with 1 hole, if you think that will help.
I don't know what is hitting, without a pic.

I would lube the arm and shaft it turns on, they can get tight turning from no lube.

Below is a pic from TM Tractor of how the arm with 1 hole looks.

[Jack]

Hi,
The pic of the new arm at Hamilton Bob's website shows the new arm has 2 holes for the rod.
If yours looks the same as the pic, if necessary you could cut off the top hole area of the new arm, and grind it smooth, and shape it like the original arm, with 1 hole, if you think that will help.
I don't know what is hitting, without a pic.

I would lube the arm and shaft it turns on, they can get tight turning from no lube.

Below is a pic from TM Tractor of how the arm with 1 hole looks.

Mine looks like the one in the pic.
It is hitting the belt pulley

[Jack]

This is the lever I bought which is to big . It hits into the belt pulley

This is the lever I need to fit properly

[Glen]

Hi,
I'm not sure if you said what is wrong with the original arm.
If it's not broken, maybe you can use it more.

[Jack]

Hi,
I'm not sure if you said what is wrong with the original arm.
If it's not broken, maybe you can use it more.

It broke while trying to get it off the shaft. I found another another one,
Waiting for it to arrive.

[Jack]

Update
I got everything back on the cub,
thanks to TM, and tst, and everyone that had given me advice.
I also used lurker carl rock shaft repair, in the how to section.
Now the cub runs like it was meant to run.
It purrs like a kitten, I can't wait to put it to work in the field,
Thank you all

[Stanton]

...I also used lurker girls rock shaft repair, in the how to section...

Did you mean Lurker Carl instead? He has a few How To's on rockshafts:
http://farmallcub.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?f=139&t=100217&p=791756&hilit=governor#p791756
http://farmallcub.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?f=141&t=100235

[Jack]

...I also used lurker girls rock shaft repair, in the how to section...

Did you mean Lurker Carl instead? He has a few How To's on rockshafts:
http://farmallcub.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?f=139&t=100217&p=791756&hilit=governor#p791756
http://farmallcub.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?f=141&t=100235

Yes that's who I meant