184 engine rebuild

[rednax]

I have finally got some time to put my engine together, but I ran into a few problems.

1) The cylinder 2 intake tappet only goes in all the way when it's spun a certain way. Otherwise, it stops right before the wider part that touches the bore enters into the area with the valve springs. I put the tappet in the place of other tappets and it works fine, and other tappets work in the cylinder 2 intake tappet hole. Should I switch 2 tappets around or should I try some sort of abrasive on it? I already put in main bearings and the machine shop cleaned the block, so I would be hesitant to use an abrasive on the block.

2) The center main bearings are a bit loose. When I initially put them in they were able to slide around, but even after torquing down the caps to check clearances, the bearings come out easily. The clearance between the bearing and crankshaft is .002. The service manual says to tap on the top of the bearing with a mallet to stretch it out, but I was just wondering how much to stretch it, because I don't want to wreck it. Also, I haven't seen anything about doing hitting them with a mallet anywhere else.

Now that the weather is warmer, I probably will be able to work on my tractor more. I will post some pictures here and I hope to finish the whole restoration by the end of July for the 4H fair.
Thanks!

[Eugene]

The clearance between the bearing and crankshaft is .002. The service manual says to tap on the top of the bearing with a mallet to stretch it out, but I was just wondering how much to stretch it, because I don't want to wreck it. Also, I haven't seen anything about doing hitting them with a mallet anywhere else.

Turn the bearing half upside down, gentle tap with soft mallet. See how if fits.

[Jim Becker]

The cylinder 2 intake tappet only goes in all the way when it's spun a certain way. Otherwise, it stops right before the wider part that touches the bore enters into the area with the valve springs. I put the tappet in the place of other tappets and it works fine, and other tappets work in the cylinder 2 intake tappet hole. Should I switch 2 tappets around or should I try some sort of abrasive on it? I already put in main bearings and the machine shop cleaned the block, so I would be hesitant to use an abrasive on the block.

Do NOT swap the tappets into a different position. They should be kept with the same cam lobe they were originally with.

You are probably just dealing with a burr on either the tappet or the block bore. First I would closely inspect the tappet looking for a burr. If you find it, dress it up with a file. Otherwise, I would hit each one a little bit with a fine abrasive. I might start with the tappet as it can be easily cleaned of abrasive. Then try tthe bore a little bit. You can rinse out most of the abrasive without much effort. Don't worry about perfectly cleaning it.

[outdoors4evr]

I doubt this is the case, but there is a chance of this issue:
The main bearing caps only fit well one direction. The "key" goes on the side closest to the cam. If put in the other way, the cap will not fully seat.

[rednax]

I was able to get the lifter to fit well with some 220 grit sandpaper and then some 400 grit. Tapping the bearing multiple times didn’t fix the center bearings, so I decided to call hamiltonbobs. The guy I talked to said that the bearings don’t have to be super snug, and it’s fine if they can rotate a little, however I just wanted to double check. Thanks.

[Gary Dotson]

Being able to move the bearing around a bit, before the bearing cap is installed, should not create a problem. When the bearing cap is installed and tightened, the bearing is forced tight in to the bearing bore, this is called bearing crush. The bearing is basically a press fit when properly installed. This crush fit is necessary to maintain the stability of the bearing and also as a means of cooling the bearing. Now, on the other hand, if you’re saying that the bearing can move, with the cap tightened down, stop right there, you have a serious problem.

[outdoors4evr]

.002-.003 clearance is within spec for bearing clearance per the service manual.

[rednax]

In the parts manual, it says that there are five 1/8 oil galley plugs on the engine block, but I only found 4
1) Next to the oil filter
2) Between cylinder 3 and 4 lifters
3) Underneath the valve cover
4) On the flywheel side of the block by the valve cover

Am I missing one or are there only four 1/8 plugs? Also, should I put Teflon paste on the plug threads?

I also noticed that the rear main seal retainer has grooves where the seal goes. Should I get it machined and put in a bigger seal, buy a new retainer or just put some gasket maker on it?

I was also wondering if I should put any threadlocker or anti sieze on any of the bolts or gasket sealer on the gaskets.

Thanks

[Eugene]

Oil gallery plug under the cam shaft drive gear.

Send the rear crankshaft oil seal retainer to TST.

Sealant on the head bolts.

[rednax]

The plug behind the cam gear is bigger than 1/8. I took out four 1/8 plugs so I’ll be fine with putting four in.

What does tst do to the retainers? Could a local machine shop do the same thing?

[Dale Finch]

I'm sure they could, but probably not for what he charges. He knows cubs & has been re-machining them for quite a while, so he has already surmounted the learning curve.

[Gary Dotson]

Tim has a fixture that he made to center them on his lathe so he can do them quickly and in quantity. Your local shop would have to re-invent the wheel, so to speak. Just send it to him, you won’t do any better than that.

[mastercraft]

Tim has a fixture that he made to center them on his lathe so he can do them quickly and in quantity. Your local shop would have to re-invent the wheel, so to speak. Just send it to him, you won’t do any better than that.

he did mine...not an issue since

[rednax]

Where can I get shims for the final drive? There was a thin one that was broken and I am having a hard time finding one.

[BullDAWG]

What does tst do to the retainers? Could a local machine shop do the same thing?

Y'all said tst can do it cheaper but haven't said why.
It's been a few years since I've owned a Cub but if I remember correctly he modifies it so the new one piece seal can be installed as it seals better than the old crankshaft seals did.