H carb, rebuild time...

[tractorfan1]

The carb on my 48 H is in need of a rebuild, we have had the tractor since 1967 and it's never been off since we have owned it. I have never been inside an H carb (only Cub's ), so I need some help. How involved is it? Is it tricky to unhook the govenor linkage's? Any help is appreciated.


TF1

[Eugene]

Nothing to worry about. You won't have any trouble if you have worked on a Cub's carburator. The H's carb is just as simple.

Eugene

[tractorfan1]

Thank's Eugene, So what about the govenor linkage's, are they difficult to hook up? Why I ask is I have heard they are a nightmare to hook up when installing the carb. Thank's again.

[Eugene]

It's been a zillion years since I worked on an H carburator. I don't recall any specific problems. I'm thinking cotter keys.

Just checked the I&T manual. It doesn't mention any specific linkage problems.

Inserting the cotter keys can sometimes be a pain because they are located on the back side of the carburator. I usually unbolt the carburator, tilt it sideways then remove the cotter keys. Reverse for installation.

Eugene

[George Willer]

The carb on my 48 H is in need of a rebuild, we have had the tractor since 1967 and it's never been off since we have owned it. I have never been inside an H carb (only Cub's ), so I need some help. How involved is it? Is it tricky to unhook the govenor linkage's? Any help is appreciated.


TF1

TF 1,

There's nothing to take apart, other than the screws holding the telescoping tube in place. Once you have it apart, you'll see how to get it back together and in time. I have the same job to do on my '48 H soon. Last time I ran it it was a little ragged... but the gas must be 3 or 4 years old.

You'll find it nearly as simple as the Cub carb with an adjustable main jet added.

[John *.?-!.* cub owner]

I haven't worked on an H carb in a while, but you will find a few differences, one of whihc being it is cast iron, so rust forming in passages is a problem if it has set for a while. Of coulrse that also means you don't have to worry about warping. An uncle wanted em to check his a few years ago. it had set outisde during the winter with water in carb. float was crushed, but carb unharmed. As to the governor linkage, there is an ear that slips into a notch. no big deal to put back together.

[tractorfan1]

Thank's for the responce's guy's. But what about a carb kit. You guy's don't care for TISCO kit's for cub's, but what about the H?


TF1

[Eugene]

This is a simple carburator and probably the only needs a good cleaning and the needle valve and seat. I would try the local auto parts store for a kit.

Eugene

[WKPoor]

Sometimes the only part needed for carb overhaul is the bowl gasket. The rest just may need a good cleaning.

[pokitisme]

Go check out my video on YouTube I've got the full disassemble and reassemble procedure on there. I am no mechanical genius. But I did take the carburetor completely apart and reassembled it that was my first time ever disassembling any carburetor. My only experience was watching a few YouTube videos but I found all of them lacking. So I did a start to finish teardown of the carburetor. The only thing I did not cover was the governor and a few of the outside screws. The governor was fairly easy to place back it does have a little Notch that you have to make sure it's threaded up or I mean linked up properly. But as per another video on YouTube all you have to do is put that Governor together with the carburetor and then adjust the throttle a few times to see if it works. It is a fairly simple procedure. I did not replace the carburetor with a repair kit I just put it back together cuz I thought that was my problem at the time. But as I said please take a look over my video and look over other videos before you even start the procedure identify aspects that you may need to cover such as screws and other such things. I very much suggest getting one of those magnetic bowls from Harbor Freight and attach that bowl directly under the carburetor. Please take note some of the screws are brass and some of the screws are metal and the brass ones can get lost if not magnetically attached which they can't be. Also here's another thing to take note put a chart or some other item down below the carburetor to catch any following items screws pins or anything like that if you are doing this in a grassy area believe me you will lose something. I lost one of the outside screws I can't remember which one it's the one on the bottom right side and it took me 20 minutes to find that in the grass because it was Blended in with the grass color. But please look over videos make sure you have a clear plan of action for everything also get carburetor cleaner or brake cleaner they're both basically the same thing and believe me they do absolute Wonders on cleaning.



.... forgot to add this little note. The intake hose for the carburetor that was a complete bitch to reattach. You may look at that hose and think it's just a soft rubber hose but it's not at least the hose I had was extremely Stout trying to attach that to the air tube and to the carburetor was a complete bitch of a problem. It was easier to do everything else. The air intake / carburetor hose was the biggest problem of everything and I'm talking about the entire hose and pipe leading to the top air filter. Other guys may wish to chime in on this but I had a hell of a time maneuvering the hose and the pipe back onto the carburetor.