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(Lack of?) power questions
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- Cub Pro
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The recommended timing was determined on a sample engine and the timing light is a way to duplicate that setting. Without a timing light the distributor or mag can be rotated on a running engine to find the sweet spot with maximum RPM. A later test with a light will probably find it's very close to specs, or very slightly advanced. Static timing as recommended in the manual will be the safest thing for an engine that will be hand cranked. This is because there could be some variation in the centrifugal advance causing it to fire advanced when cranking.
We checked Rambo's timing on the dyno at CubTug, intending to set timing for maximum power. We found it was already at the best setting.
We checked Rambo's timing on the dyno at CubTug, intending to set timing for maximum power. We found it was already at the best setting.
George Willer
http://gwill.net
The most affectionate creature in the world is a wet dog. Ambrose Bierce
http://gwill.net
The most affectionate creature in the world is a wet dog. Ambrose Bierce
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That's about the right position for #1 on a distributor. I suggest a complete tune up, there may be several things that need adjusting or replacing.
You can static time a distributor by rotating the engine to #1 TDC compression, remove the distributor cap, loosen the distributor so it rotates and pull the kill switch (not remove it but pull on the knob). Rotate the distributor slowly until the point arc and tighten down the distributor.
You can static time a distributor by rotating the engine to #1 TDC compression, remove the distributor cap, loosen the distributor so it rotates and pull the kill switch (not remove it but pull on the knob). Rotate the distributor slowly until the point arc and tighten down the distributor.
"Chance favors the prepared mind."
- Louis Pasteur
"In character, in manners, in style, in all things, the supreme excellence is simplicity."
- Henry Wadsworth Longfellow
- Louis Pasteur
"In character, in manners, in style, in all things, the supreme excellence is simplicity."
- Henry Wadsworth Longfellow
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- Team Cub Mentor
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Yes as Jim Becker states.My cub has a distributer on, and it is hard to start with the hand crank. Is it possible to get a cub with a distributer to start easy with the hand crank.
Hand cranking only revolves the engine at a few RPMs per minute. Battery/starter cranking will revolve the engine at approximately 150 RPMs.
As is being discussed in this topic. A complete tune up. Use the timing light to set the timing at TDC when hand cranking. This should solve your hard starting problem.
It takes a bit of practice to get the hand cranking procedure down for a particular engine. Example for my Allis Chalmers engine - cold. Safety checks. Throttle set 1/2. Choke full on. Rotate engine until I hear choke sucking fuel - usually one of two cranks. Choke full open. Ignition switch on. Engine should start on next crank turn.
I have an excuse. CRS.
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- 10+ Years
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Trent do a complete tune up and a valve adjustment , you may get a very nice surprise in the increased performance ......... I have 2 Cubs and alays did points, plugs , and timing and called it a tune up but then I found farmallcub.com and learned about adjusting the valves ,so I did the valves on the LoBoy and WOW what a differance it made in performance especially with the Woods 59 engaged. I bet my valves had not been adjusted in 25 years they were all tight.......
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- Cub Pro
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OK, had some time to do a little with the Cub today. I turned the distributor, but didn't find higher RPMs. I also turned the idle adjusting screw on the carb to see. No improvements there either. I started to remove the the air cleaner, to clean it up, but it was cold out. I turned my attention to getting the heater installed in the shop, which I obviously put off for too long.
New plugs last year are D16s, I'm pretty sure the valves were adjusted at last year's rebuild also, I know the valves were ground and everything. I just had the TC off for a rebuild, is it convenient to take the cover off to check with the manifold tubes still on?
Somethings zapping the power, just gotta find it!!
New plugs last year are D16s, I'm pretty sure the valves were adjusted at last year's rebuild also, I know the valves were ground and everything. I just had the TC off for a rebuild, is it convenient to take the cover off to check with the manifold tubes still on?
Somethings zapping the power, just gotta find it!!
Trent McPeak
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- Cub Pro
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Trent, don't assume anything. For instance, have you retorqued the head since installing it? Recheck the valve clearances, timing, ignition, leaky gaskets, fuel system - everything. When you're having a problem, it all needs to be looked at again.
Those hydraulic lines won't be a problem but remove the carburetor so it won't be in your way.
Those hydraulic lines won't be a problem but remove the carburetor so it won't be in your way.
"Chance favors the prepared mind."
- Louis Pasteur
"In character, in manners, in style, in all things, the supreme excellence is simplicity."
- Henry Wadsworth Longfellow
- Louis Pasteur
"In character, in manners, in style, in all things, the supreme excellence is simplicity."
- Henry Wadsworth Longfellow
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- Cub Pro
- Posts: 3337
- Joined: Wed Aug 09, 2006 6:21 pm
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Revisiting this topic- I haven't had a chance to work on the Cub lately, too much going on. I'm gonna get into it soon. I'm replacing the Zenith with the original IH carb (after a Rick P. workover ) and I'll try adjusting the valves when I make the swap. New set of D21s to go in it, too.
One thing I notice is that the oil pressure gauge is always pegged high. I always thought it was probably a faulty gauge and it shows pressure, so I thought I was OK. Now I'm not so sure. While I'm changing the plugs would be as good a time as any to clean up the air cleaner. If that little tube connected to the block was plugged, could that cause high oil pressure? Also, retorque the head.
And while the hood is off, I might as well...
One thing I notice is that the oil pressure gauge is always pegged high. I always thought it was probably a faulty gauge and it shows pressure, so I thought I was OK. Now I'm not so sure. While I'm changing the plugs would be as good a time as any to clean up the air cleaner. If that little tube connected to the block was plugged, could that cause high oil pressure? Also, retorque the head.
And while the hood is off, I might as well...
Trent McPeak
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- Team Cub Mentor
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Trent - the plugged vent line will not cause high oil pressure.
Bigdog
If you can't fix it with a hammer, you've got an electrical problem.
My wife says I don't listen to her. - - - - - - - - Or something like that!
http://www.cubtug.com
If you can't fix it with a hammer, you've got an electrical problem.
My wife says I don't listen to her. - - - - - - - - Or something like that!
http://www.cubtug.com
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Re: (Lack of?) power questions
Ahhhhhh ... Yessssss!!! Today (finally) I felt the power! Over the winter I gave Dad's 49 a tune up (new points, condensor, rotor, cap, wires, and D21 plugs; adjusted the valves; installed the Rick P. rebuilt IH carb; removed and cleaned the air cleaner; torqued the head bolts) and set the timing at DocFest (thanks Eugene) and then later checked it with a timing light. It was finally dry enough to pull the 23A disk through the garden and WOW what a difference!! No trouble whatsoever.
I have also rebuilt the leaky TC and the steering housing, now the tractor doesn't leak a single drop. Now that its nice and tight, I've caught myself thinking of taking care of some (minor) cosmetic work and a paint job. That is something I never thought I'd worry about, but I REALLY like this tractor and my great-aunt would love to see it all pretty again (it belonged to her and my late great-uncle from 1955-2006).
I have also rebuilt the leaky TC and the steering housing, now the tractor doesn't leak a single drop. Now that its nice and tight, I've caught myself thinking of taking care of some (minor) cosmetic work and a paint job. That is something I never thought I'd worry about, but I REALLY like this tractor and my great-aunt would love to see it all pretty again (it belonged to her and my late great-uncle from 1955-2006).
Trent McPeak
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- 10+ Years
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Re: (Lack of?) power questions
That kind of sounds like it could involve a couple of mini-fests at your house. Maybe we could find a painting expert to come and show us how it is done right.
1947 Circle Cub, 193, 189
1954 Cub w/FH, IH100, 194, F11
1956 Cub Loboy w/FH and 194
1960 Cub Loboy w/FH and L-54
1953 Super A, 2 seater B, Avery V, Avery A, JD M, MH Pony, Leader D, Allis Chalmers C, and my Great Grandpa's ZA Minneapolis Moline.
1954 Cub w/FH, IH100, 194, F11
1956 Cub Loboy w/FH and 194
1960 Cub Loboy w/FH and L-54
1953 Super A, 2 seater B, Avery V, Avery A, JD M, MH Pony, Leader D, Allis Chalmers C, and my Great Grandpa's ZA Minneapolis Moline.
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