Any ideas for a custom rear scraper blade??

[JBP1]

Hello all. Hope you have had a great spring thus far.

My Wife's cub has been behaving great since I replaced the RR wheel bearings . Thanks to all who provided help on that.

With the spring, We've gone from a front blade to the 42" Woods mower now. But the 2500' driveway still wants to grow potholes.

Hopefully this question is fun to discuss. Does anyone have suggestions about making a custom rear scraper blade for a 73 Cub? I have a spare blade, some rusty steel/angle iron, a welder, and several large turnbuckles (about 1/2" to 1" diameter). Just was looking for some concepts to see what details I can use with what I have.

Thanks,
JBP

[XFARMA]

Why not mid mount your front blade and use it as a grader blade like it was designed for?

[gitractorman]

Yea, mount it in the middle, you'll be amazed at how much better control you have for grading with it mounted in the "grader" position. Immensely better than the blade being in the front, and I've found that it is even better and easier to control than a rear-mounted blade on a 3-point hitch. Here is a pic for you to see the mounting:



Trust me, you'll love it. You can hold grade so easily by just resting your hand on the touch control quadrant, and feathering the lift lever. I re-graded about an acre of my back yard using this setup and it was amazing.

My picture shows the alternate drawbar that is available for the Cub, however you can do the same thing by flipping your standard drawbar 180 degrees.

[BigMatt]

I understand what a pain taking off the mower is, and if you want a project, then why not?

My first suggestion is to make a drag out of a couple of tires and some of that angle iron. There is a camp owner in Canada where we go that has one and it works great. Every time he leaves or comes home, he hooks up the drag to his truck and his "road" stays smooth. It is about 10 miles long though.

My other suggestion (if you want seat time) is to take that angle and build a rear mount grader blade. If you have a drawbar and touch control, you might want to look at my post on my planter. you could use the same type of mount only modified and lenghtened for the grader blade. (just skip to the end for pictures) http://www.farmallcub.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=56798&hilit=planter+project

I would also include some way to angle the blade.

[ScottyD'sdad]

I agree that the center position is best. Commercial road graders were all built that way. However, removing the mower is a real pain! I suggest looking at the design of available rear scrapers, and picking out good ideas that you can duplicate, and designing the mounting, similar to the single gang disk harrow mount. The closer it is, to the rear of the tractor, the less difficult it will be, to get a level grade, so, don't let it protrude too far. Ed

[Tezell]

Nice looking set up gitractorman! JBP1 sounds to me like it would be a good time to purchase another Cub, one to mow with and one to grade with!

[Rudi]

JBP:

One thing that you will find on this topic is that many of us use what we have at hand. To grade a road/driveway the best piece of equipment would probably be a



not all of us have constant access to one of these though. Other thing is, it takes a long time to learn how to grade with a blade out front. Belly mount blades are easier to grade with because the telegraph effect is lessened.

The very next best thing to my mind and I guess to many others is as Bill said



Still not all of us have a dedicated setup .. I need to try and mid-mount mine. I know it will do a great job as the Cub-54 can be angled much like a dozer's blade.

For those who have long driveways sometimes other tools will do the job just as well.



Even though my driveway is now essentially blacktopped, the drag is integral to keeping the vast majority of my logging road in good shape. Plus it gives me a lot of seat time. With the groomer setup that I have, telegraphing dips and such is a non issue as the skids are long enough and the drag is wide enough for this to not be a problem.

The other thing is that thinking outside of the box is the norm in our community so I am always supportive of anyone wanting to try out a good idea. One never knows just what will be the result, but I do know that the journey is always interesting. Whatever you do, please document as you go so we can see how you make out

Oh, before I forget -- our camp road -- about 3/4 mile I guess was always maintained by my father-in-law and his Massey-Ferguson 1040 and he graded that road with a rear mount scraper blade. Works well .. just really hard on the back and neck... As Ed said, keeping the blade as close to the rear of the tractor is key especially as any dips etc. will telegraph out to the blade. It will take more trips to get a good job than with a center mount setup.

There are many ways to skin a cat

[CKCowboy]

Hello all. Hope you have had a great spring thus far.

My Wife's cub has been behaving great since I replaced the RR wheel bearings . Thanks to all who provided help on that.

With the spring, We've gone from a front blade to the 42" Woods mower now. But the 2500' driveway still wants to grow potholes.

Hopefully this question is fun to discuss. Does anyone have suggestions about making a custom rear scraper blade for a 73 Cub? I have a spare blade, some rusty steel/angle iron, a welder, and several large turnbuckles (about 1/2" to 1" diameter). Just was looking for some concepts to see what details I can use with what I have.

Thanks,
JBP

I have a LoBoy and I can't center mount the blade and have been thinking about the same thing.
Haven't come up with plans, but have thought of mounting a box scraper on the fast hitch.
Need to get back to that.
Dave

[JBP1]

Hello all. Hope you've been enjoying a beautiful spring. I pray that the folks in Joplin don't have any more troubles, because it looks like hell already, and is horrible.

I've been 'outside the box' on this project. Attached are a couple of photos. The blade does a fairly inadequate job at this point, but does some scraping.

What I'm going to do next is to somehow attach a beam/spring device (like the one that sits on top of the front blade setup) from the top center of the blade to the middle of the draw bar (if that is what that part of the tractor is). The intent would be to keep the blade from tipping forward. Also, I'm going to bolt an extender on the lift bar so I get more 'stroke' on that.

The three turnbuckles handle the load fine, and make adjustments easy. Putting it on only requires one bolt and two pins, so far. It is simple, crude, ugly and.......practically free.

JBP

[Peter Person]

I use what I have...



Came with a LoBoy that I bought a few years back. Kept the blade, sold the LoBoy.

Peter

[Josh Blair]

Yea, mount it in the middle, you'll be amazed at how much better control you have for grading with it mounted in the "grader" position. Immensely better than the blade being in the front, and I've found that it is even better and easier to control than a rear-mounted blade on a 3-point hitch. Here is a pic for you to see the mounting:



Trust me, you'll love it. You can hold grade so easily by just resting your hand on the touch control quadrant, and feathering the lift lever. I re-graded about an acre of my back yard using this setup and it was amazing.

My picture shows the alternate drawbar that is available for the Cub, however you can do the same thing by flipping your standard drawbar 180 degrees.

are you so lonely you are playing tic tac toe with the cub????