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Sickle bar mower question
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- 5+ Years
- Posts: 41
- Joined: Mon Aug 18, 2014 6:37 pm
- Zip Code: 21163
- Tractors Owned: '66 IH Cub Lo Boy (Harvey)
- Location: Woodstock, Maryland
Sickle bar mower question
Last year, I came into my first tractor (1966 Cub LoBoy), which had a few extras, including a sickle bar mower. Removed the tow bar and leveling blade and hooked up the sickle bar. As best I can tell by both sight and manual, I hooked up everything correctly.
Out to the tall grasses to field test. Bar lowered, PTO on, mower going. Things seem to be OK for a small while, but boy does this thing seem to shake violently! So much so that some of the bolts loosen from around the PTO (where the mower attaches just below the spindle) and I actually lose some bolts near the connecting rods. Tighten loose bolts, replace lost ones and try again. Same result. And then a third time. By this time, I had to had to take the mower off and return the leveling blade to its rightful spot to be ready for winter snow.
Seems odd if all was set up correctly and things functioning normally that I'd have such unusual results. Clearly, such a device shouldn't be doing what it is designed to do and then come apart in the process. I'm hoping the group might be able to help out this rookie. The help is too late for last season, but perhaps I'll have better luck for next season. Much appreciated.
Out to the tall grasses to field test. Bar lowered, PTO on, mower going. Things seem to be OK for a small while, but boy does this thing seem to shake violently! So much so that some of the bolts loosen from around the PTO (where the mower attaches just below the spindle) and I actually lose some bolts near the connecting rods. Tighten loose bolts, replace lost ones and try again. Same result. And then a third time. By this time, I had to had to take the mower off and return the leveling blade to its rightful spot to be ready for winter snow.
Seems odd if all was set up correctly and things functioning normally that I'd have such unusual results. Clearly, such a device shouldn't be doing what it is designed to do and then come apart in the process. I'm hoping the group might be able to help out this rookie. The help is too late for last season, but perhaps I'll have better luck for next season. Much appreciated.
"In theory there is no difference between theory and practice. In practice there is." Yogi Berra
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- 10+ Years
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1952 Cub
1942 Farmall H - Location: Raymond, MS
Re: Sickle bar mower question
Lot of moving parts on a sickle mower, so there's alot to look at. Bearings and bushings have to be in good condition. Lead and register need to be correct. Everything should be aligned correctly. Drive pulley should be tight and running true. Pics and video would be great. I know, not possible right now
Thomas
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Re: Sickle bar mower question
Are you using tapered or square shoulder bolts. Tapered bolts are REQUIRED in certain places.
"I'd rather be a mechanic in the shop"- Henry Ford
252646 & 221525. 195897 (Gone, but not forgotten)
252646 & 221525. 195897 (Gone, but not forgotten)
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1 1964 LoBoy
1 1965 LoBoy
1 1966 LoBoy - Circle of Safety: Y
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Re: Sickle bar mower question
From my experience, the mower is going to shake the tractor some. This shaking is going loosen bolts that are not rock solid tight. So, the rule of thumb is to run the mower a little, stop and retorque everything, especially on the mower itself. You may have to retorque bolts several times. If the mower is shaking a lot from the beginning, I suspect wear in the drive shaft bushings. Since you have the mower off the tractor, now is a good time to check the bushings by seeing if there is lateral play in the drive shaft (check both front and back). If the mower starts shaking only in heavy grass, check knife register and sharpness of the cutting edges. I have one field that makes my mower shake a lot just because the vegetation is really thick. I suspect my knife head is not being held down tight enough. If the front bracket bolts come loose, the mower will shake very violently. I assume you have the correct implement (cone shaped) bolts for the front bracket? --Lee
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- 10+ Years
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2013 NH Workmaster 40 - Circle of Safety: Y
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Re: Sickle bar mower question
How fast are you running it? I usually mow in 2nd gear, at half throttle, maybe less. My experience has been that as the grass gets thicker, it runs smoother. As others have said, the tapered implement bolts are a must where required. I'll reiterate to check the lead, slop in the knife, etc. I do hope you get it figured out. A sickle bar is a pleasure to mow with when it's all tuned and running like it should.
WaMoo - Dairy Farmer and U.S. Coast Guard (Retired)
Chewelah, WA
"I had rather be on my farm than be emperor of the world."
~George Washington
Chewelah, WA
"I had rather be on my farm than be emperor of the world."
~George Washington
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- 10+ Years
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Re: Sickle bar mower question
What size pulley do you have on the PTO shaft?
1950 FCub, 1975 FCub, 1948 FCUB, 1955 FCUB, 1993 Ford 1715
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Re: Sickle bar mower question
The sickle is not made to mow grass with. its made to mow hay and weeds with!!--- And shake they will! I have one someone stuck on one of my older cubs, and the thing is junk compared to the one on my ac-c tractor! thanks; sonny
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- 10+ Years
- Posts: 277
- Joined: Mon Jun 06, 2011 6:46 pm
- Zip Code: 99109
- Tractors Owned: 1954 Farmall Cub
2013 NH Workmaster 40 - Circle of Safety: Y
- Location: Chewelah, WA
Re: Sickle bar mower question
I would also recommend looking at GSS-1053, Mower Cutter Bars-All Models; Maintenance and Repair. I thinks it's up above PDF manuals.
Another good generic reference is The Mower, How to Repair and Adjust:
http://ir.library.oregonstate.edu/xmlui ... sequence=1
Consumable cutter bar parts (sections, ledgers, wear plates, etc.) are relatively inexpensive. I've had good luck with Webbs Sickle Service.
Using the advice on this forum, and the references, you should be able to get your mower humming along like a sewing machine!
Another good generic reference is The Mower, How to Repair and Adjust:
http://ir.library.oregonstate.edu/xmlui ... sequence=1
Consumable cutter bar parts (sections, ledgers, wear plates, etc.) are relatively inexpensive. I've had good luck with Webbs Sickle Service.
Using the advice on this forum, and the references, you should be able to get your mower humming along like a sewing machine!
WaMoo - Dairy Farmer and U.S. Coast Guard (Retired)
Chewelah, WA
"I had rather be on my farm than be emperor of the world."
~George Washington
Chewelah, WA
"I had rather be on my farm than be emperor of the world."
~George Washington
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- 5+ Years
- Posts: 41
- Joined: Mon Aug 18, 2014 6:37 pm
- Zip Code: 21163
- Tractors Owned: '66 IH Cub Lo Boy (Harvey)
- Location: Woodstock, Maryland
Re: Sickle bar mower question
I managed to find a brief video of the sickle bar in action. Can't seem to attach a video, so here's a link: https://www.dropbox.com/s/wp68zm7q2vu4x ... r.mpg?dl=0
This is fairly early in the run, so this is while things were running relatively smooth. Before the bolts popped...
HC
This is fairly early in the run, so this is while things were running relatively smooth. Before the bolts popped...
HC
tmays wrote:Lot of moving parts on a sickle mower, so there's alot to look at. Bearings and bushings have to be in good condition. Lead and register need to be correct. Everything should be aligned correctly. Drive pulley should be tight and running true. Pics and video would be great. I know, not possible right now
"In theory there is no difference between theory and practice. In practice there is." Yogi Berra
-
- 5+ Years
- Posts: 41
- Joined: Mon Aug 18, 2014 6:37 pm
- Zip Code: 21163
- Tractors Owned: '66 IH Cub Lo Boy (Harvey)
- Location: Woodstock, Maryland
Re: Sickle bar mower question
Not sure that I noticed or perhaps even noticed the difference...I started with whichever bolts the previous owner had with it and did my best to replace when lost. I also didn't notice anything about different bolts in the manual for the L22.
danovercash wrote:Are you using tapered or square shoulder bolts. Tapered bolts are REQUIRED in certain places.
"In theory there is no difference between theory and practice. In practice there is." Yogi Berra
-
- 5+ Years
- Posts: 41
- Joined: Mon Aug 18, 2014 6:37 pm
- Zip Code: 21163
- Tractors Owned: '66 IH Cub Lo Boy (Harvey)
- Location: Woodstock, Maryland
Re: Sickle bar mower question
I would say that I was probably mowing about the same. Tried in first gear at 1/2 to 3/4 and tried in second as well, but certainly no more than 1/2 throttle.
WaMoo wrote:How fast are you running it? I usually mow in 2nd gear, at half throttle, maybe less. My experience has been that as the grass gets thicker, it runs smoother. As others have said, the tapered implement bolts are a must where required. I'll reiterate to check the lead, slop in the knife, etc. I do hope you get it figured out. A sickle bar is a pleasure to mow with when it's all tuned and running like it should.
"In theory there is no difference between theory and practice. In practice there is." Yogi Berra
-
- 10+ Years
- Posts: 3428
- Joined: Wed May 11, 2011 8:59 pm
- Zip Code: 39154
- Tractors Owned: 1969 Farmall Cub
1952 Cub
1942 Farmall H - Location: Raymond, MS
Re: Sickle bar mower question
Well it definitely should not be loading up with grass like that. Is there quite a bit of previously cut dry grass in there? Green grass helps lubricate things. Can't tell from angle of video, but looks like lead needs adjusted? Also register must be correct in order to cut cleanly.
Thomas
-
- 5+ Years
- Posts: 41
- Joined: Mon Aug 18, 2014 6:37 pm
- Zip Code: 21163
- Tractors Owned: '66 IH Cub Lo Boy (Harvey)
- Location: Woodstock, Maryland
Re: Sickle bar mower question
A Browning BK50H I believe. OD=4.75 inches
Bob Triplett wrote:What size pulley do you have on the PTO shaft?
"In theory there is no difference between theory and practice. In practice there is." Yogi Berra
-
- 5+ Years
- Posts: 41
- Joined: Mon Aug 18, 2014 6:37 pm
- Zip Code: 21163
- Tractors Owned: '66 IH Cub Lo Boy (Harvey)
- Location: Woodstock, Maryland
Re: Sickle bar mower question
Thanks to everyone for their sage wisdom thus far. Lots to think about prior spring/summer. I don't foresee needing the sickle bar for much and I don't use for regular mowing. I've only used so far to deal with overgrown grass that had a couple of years to take over a few parts of the property. House sat vacant for some time and the grass resembled hay in some areas...
"In theory there is no difference between theory and practice. In practice there is." Yogi Berra
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- 5+ Years
- Posts: 41
- Joined: Mon Aug 18, 2014 6:37 pm
- Zip Code: 21163
- Tractors Owned: '66 IH Cub Lo Boy (Harvey)
- Location: Woodstock, Maryland
Re: Sickle bar mower question
Unfortunately, no.
tmays wrote:Well it definitely should not be loading up with grass like that. Is there quite a bit of previously cut dry grass in there?
"In theory there is no difference between theory and practice. In practice there is." Yogi Berra
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