Stalling Out

[TheBeekeeper]

Hi Gang,

I am looking for some advice on my situation. I reviewed all the old posts on sputtering, stalling, etc. but thought someone might have some more exact advice on my situation.

I bought my cub late last year and it has an entirely new electrical system on it. I don't believe the engine has been rebuilt, at least not for a while. I was mowing with my Woods 42C in some fairly decent sized weeds last weekend and after about 1 hour of use in 90 degree heat the engine would stall out. Now it seemed like after it would get a bit hot the govenor would not kick in at all, which would cause the inevitable stall in the large weeds. After stalling, the engine would not start for at least 20 mintues. Once we even had to pull start it as the battery was losing charge after all the starting attempts.

My first thought was that the carb might be sending too much or little fuel to the engine when it was heating up. I am thinking about buying a rebuild kit and starting there. What other thoughts do you guys have on this situation?

Thank You

[Phillip W. Lenke]

I have had similar problems with a BN . I would use it for about 30 min the would quit. See post about BN runnin fine on other IH tractor forum.
I was starving for fuel.
By the way you must have honey bees Eh! I have some also.
Send PM
Pwl

[beaconlight]

The easiest and cheapest would be plugged vent holes in the fuel tank cap. When it quits remove the cap and if you hear a woosh clean the vents. The next most common and cheep fix is tochenc the sediment bowl. That glass gizmo under the fuel tank. if it has dust, rust or other crud clean it and the screen. I would change the gasket if it isn't new. if the screen is missing add one. There was a screen on the gas input to your carb when it was new. If you have one clean it. Next remove the brass hex on the side of the carb bowl. It is the jet. When you remove it fuel will run from the tankin a steady stream if all is well. Catch it in a clean white pail and look for rust, dust or other crud. If you have any drain the tank completely, filter the gas through a coffee filter and pour a gallon at a time through till you get clear. You may want to take the carb off at this time and clean the interion and the bowl. Clean the jet before you put it back. I poke a piece of telephone inside wire through it and blow it out with compressed air. If you do take the carb apart don't over tighten it when you out it back together. People warp the carb tops by over tightening. There is a free cap offer from case IH some where on Rudis server. You ca see the parts for your carb there too.

Bill

[Eugene]

Ignition problem. Weak or breaking down coil (highly probable) or condensor? The engine runs for an hour - my guess it is not the carburator or fuel supply.


Eugene

[beaconlight]

Ordinarily I would agree with you because of the time but I had the same thing happen and it was running stirred up the dirt in the fuel. I didn't mention it before but if it runs better with the choak part way or fullen out it probably the fuel.
As Eugene said it could be a condenser or coil breaking down. I like to do the cheap things first. Coils and points breaking down over time is a real possibility. Carbon tracks on the inside of the cap can do it too.
I re-read your post andsee that because of the wait Eugene thinks it is electrical. I still would try the gas cap first and try to run clean fuel out of the carb because it is free. The other thought is that tomorrrow is sat and if you go to the dealer for parts had best buy points, condenser, cap and coil before 1:00 clock. I always have a spare on hand as well as an oil filter and gasket. Spare plugs too. It's a convenience and I could wake up and decide to do a tuneup and oil change while the coffee is brewing at 5:00 AM. That's why I put the garage 150 feet from the house. No need to wake up the cook before she wants up.
There are other more exotic things could be going on here but try the least expensive ones first. If you don't already hace a grease gun get one and grease. That is another form of cheap (inexpensive) insurance. A lot of grease costs less than a little bit of parts.

Bill

[mac]

I agree with eugene I would check ignition I am having a simular problem with my 49

[Phillip W. Lenke]

could be a problem with both. But I would start with the fuel then go up in cost (Mag) looked at. As I had similar problems with Bn changed mag comletely. Rebuilt but still quit ,frustated me. See post in othe forum IH Tractors BN running fine. Tell what I dealt with May help you.
PWL

[TheBeekeeper]

Thanks everyone for the ideas. Here is a small update. I pulled the tractor out this weekend to get to the other tractor in the barn and we noticed 2 problems that immediately grabbed attention. First problem was that as soon as I turned on the fuel bowl and then turned on the secondary in-line fuel valve this secondary value was leaking from the value closure itself. I plan on replacing this. The tractor started and ran pretty normally, but a keen set of eyes noticed that there was also a fuel drip coming from the carb. So upon further inspection we believe the floats to be shot.

I'm going to start looking at these two things first and then potentially go on the dirty fuel scenario next. As somebody said in an earlier post, cheap stuff first

Thanks again for all the posts.

[beaconlight]

Don't forget that the float closes a needle valve that if leaking could be the cause of fuel leak as well as a bad float. there have been reports on NON IH rebuild kits having the gasket too wide and it obstructs free motion of the float. Lastly the seat fot the needle valve has a red fibre gasket that can leak if defective or if the sweat is not tightly secured.
Still in the cheap stuff catigory.

Bill