One wire alternator

[bofahs]

For me, the wiring diagram would be more useful if it were for a one-wire, with the start switch in the dash. Also, does the resistor to the coil have to be added because of the new alternator? In the diagram above, at the starter, does the 2 gauge wire from the battery connect to, or switch apart from, the 10 gauge wire to the alternator?

[Slim140]

For me, the wiring diagram would be more useful if it were for a one-wire, with the start switch in the dash. Also, does the resistor to the coil have to be added because of the new alternator? In the diagram above, at the starter, does the 2 gauge wire from the battery connect to, or switch apart from, the 10 gauge wire to the alternator?

The resistor is added when converting from 6V to 12V because the points will burn up if the 12V isn't reduced. The 10 gauge wire and the 2 gauge wire share the same lug on the starter so the 10 gauge wire can feed voltage from the alternator to charge the battery. You can run the 10 gauge wire to the battery post instead of the starter lug if you want (waste of wire though).

[bofahs]

The resistor is added when converting from 6V to 12V because the points will burn up if the 12V isn't reduced. The 10 gauge wire and the 2 gauge wire share the same lug on the starter so the 10 gauge wire can feed voltage from the alternator to charge the battery. You can run the 10 gauge wire to the battery post instead of the starter lug if you want (waste of wire though).

So, I'm thinking that, since it was already 12 v. battery ignition, I don't need the resistor. The starter switch is in the Dash. And, since it's getting difficult to buy a POS battery cable without the included 10 ga. wire hanging off the side, I'd use that between the Battery and the Ammeter. So, if you'd be kind enough to look over the attached diagram (if you can do that without laughing, that'd be great), I think this is how the wiring should go. Right?

[Jim Becker]

Your tiny wires going from the ammeter to the light and ignition switches are on the wrong side of the ammeter.

[Eugene]

Since the (I assume push button and not a key switch with solenoid) starter switch is located in the dash you can save quite a bit of wire by connecting the medium red wire from the amp meter to the lug on the starter switch connected to the battery cable.

[bofahs]

Your tiny wires going from the ammeter to the light and ignition switches are on the wrong side of the ammeter.

Yeah, I picked up on that - thanks! The revised drawing is attached.

Oh, Eugene - I was skittish about using the medium wire - the existing wire to the starter is 4 gauge. It was a little off-putting when I started digging into the wiring, as the wire from the ammeter to the starter switch was about 12 gauge, and from there to the starter itself was the fat one. I was thinking, "This can't be right! But wait - it's been like that for the 22 years I've owned it, and it was 30 years old when I got it."

Also, a similar diagram in the forum a couple days ago shows 2 gauge wire to the starter, so... ???

[Eugene]

The medium red wire from the amp meter to the positive terminal on the battery doesn't need to be any larger than the wire from the alternator to the negative side of the amp meter. The major amp load on the alternator will be shortly after engine start up. If the black wire will carry that load, no need to go larger.

Being cheap, I would wire the current medium red wire from the amp meter to the positive terminal on the battery, to the battery cable end nearest the amp meter.

My Cub with 62 amp single wire alternator will register around 30 amps on the gauge upon engine start up. Then, within short order drop to below 10 amps on the gauge. Gauge only reads in 10 amp increments.

[bofahs]

Well, I know rstoots started this thread, but I've probably gotten as much, or more help than he. I'm now just waiting on the alternator, as recommended by chipmaker, and then we shall see. Thanks to one and all.