1952 Farmall Cub magneto gives me a shock when tractor is running

[widejokar]

I recently replaced the generator, coil, distributor cap and plug wires, ignition switch, ammeter.
I followed the Cub Wiring Diagram that was on a Farmall Forum. Tractor starts and runs fine. I apparently made a wiring connection error somewhere.
I’m a new Farmall Cub owner so I need some suggestions!

[Rick Spivey]

Could you give a little more detail? What are you touching when you receive a shock? For instance, if you touch the grounding post on the magneto, or the wire in the back of the kill switch, you are likely to get a jolt.

[Stanton]

This topic has been moved to the Farmall Cub forum.

Welcome to the forum! Sorry to hear about your shock.

When you have some time, read through a few threads to acquaint yourself with the Forum:

• Welcome Wagon
• How to Upload Pictures to a Post
• Forum Picture Posting And Other Interesting Things You Can Do
• Using the Forum

Don't know if you have an Owner's or Service manual, but after your 2nd post on the Forum, you'll have access to the all the free PDF Manuals. They are located via "Quick Links" in the upper left corner of your screen. Hit that and a pull-down appears where you'll find "PDF Manuals". Through that link, you'll be able to download an Owner's Manual (very strongly recommended) and any service manuals that interest you. Implement Manuals are also available.

Might also enjoy reading through this thread: What to do with a Cub you just brought home

There's some electrical information in the How To Forum, located here: http://www.farmallcub.com/phpBB2/viewforum.php?f=140

I was able to use the Search box (upper right corner of your screen) and locate some past threads by typing "wiring diagrams":
http://www.farmallcub.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?f=174&t=99709&p=786825&hilit=wiring+diagrams#p786825

Hope this helps.

Glad you joined us.

[John *.?-!.* cub owner]

Like the others have said, more info is needed, however by your description of what you have done and the year of the tractor I assume you have a distributor rather than a magneto. If when you got shocked you were touching the screw on the side of the distributor (or a magneto, either one) a shock there would be normal, as it would be on the screw of the coil the that the wire from the distributor connects to. It hurts like the dickens too. You may even get a little shock on the coil terminal going to the switch, but it is not usually too bad.

[widejokar]

I’m not sure but I may have touched that screw on side of magneto that comes from the coil. My Cub has a Cut-Out rather than a Distributer.
I hate to get shocked ⚡️so I’m trying to get my 45 yr old Firefighter Son to touch the magneto. That sounds like a plan, Right?
Thanks guys for responding.

[Rick Spivey]

The "cut-out" would be in place of a full "Voltage Regulator", not the distributor. If you actually have a magneto ignition system, as opposed to a battery ignition system, then the stud on the side of the magneto is a "hot point" that is used to "kill" the tractor by grounding the magneto spark. It grounds it at the points, which is your primary voltage, as opposed to a spark plug wire, which is your secondary voltage. The spark plug wire would give you a much bigger jolt than the points stud, but both may give a small shock if touched. You should be able to touch anywhere else on the magneto body, such as to adjust timing, without getting a shock. Most of the time, with a magneto, you can "static time" the cub, which means without the engine running, and there would be very little chance of a shock. If any of this is unclear, do some searches for information, or ask more questions. Why are you touching the magneto when the cub is running, what are you trying to accomplish?

edited for spelling on "static"

[MiCarl]

IIRC - The manual says to static time by rotating the top of the magneto toward the engine, put cylinder 1 at TDC, then rotate the magneto away from the engine until the impulse coupler pops.

I presume when the coupler pops it'll fire cylinder #1, so if you had a hand on the wire or distributer cap it might bite.

[Jim Becker]

. . . screw on side of magneto that comes from the coil. My Cub has a Cut-Out rather than a Distributer. . . .

All this and on a '52 model doesn't make sense. Post a picture that includes your magneto and as much of the generator as possible. Include an arrow pointing to where you got zapped. Without that, we are just guessing what you have and how to set it.

[widejokar]

I am a new member so I haven’t figured out how to post a picture here from my iPhone. I tried a copy & paste but that didn’t work. The location was on the side of the magneto located at the base of the distributor.
You were saying this doesn’t make sense on a 1952 Farmall Cub and you are correct.
I used the link on this Site where I entered the Cub Serial number and it tells you what Year it is. I found that my “1952” Cub is actually a 1948 Cub!
I bought it as a 1952 and without this look-up Link I would never have known it was a 1948 so I’m glad I joined the Club!
It’s still in excellent shape for a 1948 and my new paint job with new decals makes it look sharp.

[staninlowerAL]

Not to further confuse the issue but it is not uncommon for parts from earlier or later tractors to be swapped around since they will fit. You could very well have a 1952 with a bolster/id plate from a 1948. Normally a 1952 would probably have a distributor but who knows what has been "swapped" around. You could even have a 1952 with a magneto from an older tractor with an external coil which in that case would be wired like a distributor. Pictures will help unscramble it all. I'll send you a PM with my email address and if you want me to post your pictures just email to me. Stan

[widejokar]

Thanks Stan! Good information!

[k hutchins]

Stan
It sounds to me like it might be the other way around. A '48 with a '52 bolster and serial plate.
I agree pictures would help. I'm always amazed at what some members can deduce from a couple simple pics, even if they are bad angles, poor lighting, etc.

Good luck and welcome to the forum.

[staninlowerAL]

Stan It sounds to me like it might be the other way around. A '48 with a '52 bolster and serial plate.
I agree pictures would help. I'm always amazed at what some members can deduce from a couple simple pics, even if they are bad angles, poor lighting, etc. Good luck and welcome to the forum.

Agreed, I was simply trying to make the point that things should not be taken as they appear.Remember the Johnny Cash song about the Cadillac? I like to verify the information (as much as possible). JMHO