A couple more questions

[tinnerjohn]

Followup to my previous question, if memory serves me correctly, I believe I'll need to use a resistor going to the coil. Also, does anyone know the part number for 12 volt bulbs for the headlight and worklight? I'm going to try to keep the original teardrop lights for now anyway.
Thanks again for the help.

John

[tst]

you can just replace the bulbs in the lights with 12 V ones 1195 an IC15 coil common part # should have the resistor built in so resistor not needed

[tinnerjohn]

Thanks TST! The guys I used to deal with at NAPA are gone now and I'm not so the replacements would know what I'm talking about! I had forgotten about the internal resistor coil, Pretty sure I have one on the shelf.
John

[tinnerjohn]

Got another question hopefully someone can answer. I got the alternator on, but the Echlin IC14 coil I picked up earlier today only has power on the positive side coming from the ignition switch, I found a youtube video that I interpreted as saying the resistances should be different on the two sides, I'm getting 9.36 Ohms on both sides, Am I doing something wrong or do I have a defective part? I'd rather look silly here than at the parts counter!
On a positive note, I was able to easily remove the broken piece of exhaust pipe and chase the threads, my cousin gave me a piece of 1" black pipe that was already threaded. fixed the broken radiator neck with a piece someone on here gave me several years ago and fixed the loose choke arm on the carb so I can use the rod again! Thanks for any advice.

John

[tst]

IC 14 is 6 volt, thought you were converting to 12 volt ?

[tinnerjohn]

I better go take it off and check, the box doesn't say what the voltage is! I know I told them 12 volt,

[tinnerjohn]

I just pulled it off so I can read it, Box is a IC 14, coil is 12V, 905 is on side. I'm not sure what is causing me to not have 12 volts through the coil.

[tinnerjohn]

I just realized I could check my Cub Cadet and remembered the power is intermittent depending on the point position! DUH!! Still curious about the Ohm readings, I need to disconnect and check the Cub Cadet readings.

[tmays]

I wouldn’t worry so much about the ohm readings. Connect everything and pull distributor to see if points are firing. If they are then pull coil wire from center of distributor and check for spark 1/4” from ground.

[Glen]

Hi,
I think tmays meant above to pull the distributor cap.

I would see if the engine runs using the new coil. I guess it is 12 volts, you said.
Below is info for doing a spark test, if you need it.
When assembled on the Cub, the test will help you see if the coil is putting out a good spark.
Don't let the cub roll during the test.
Remove the center wire from the distributor cap, and hold it with the wire end 1/4" away from a bare place on the block, turn the ignition switch to on, run the starter and look at the spark.
It should jump the gap, and be blue or white. A yellow spark is weak, and the engine may not run, or run bad.

[tinnerjohn]

I haven't checked the points or cap yet. It was running before I tore into it, I probably wouldn't have done the conversion yet if the exhaust pipe hadn't given up. but since I needed to take the hood off for it, the old battery wouldn't hold a charge and I had all the parts---you know the rest of the story.

[tmays]

Thank you, Glen. You are correct, distributor cap

[tinnerjohn]

Thanks fellas. I may not get back to it for a day or so. Looks like I'll be behind the wheel of a green tractor all day tomorrow - JD 8400, just a titch bigger than a Cub!

[tinnerjohn]

Thank you all for your help. The biggest part of my problem was I had somehow bumped the coil wire off! A little water in the fuel wasn't helping either. Could be why it didn't want to fire. I also finally remembered that the secondary post of the coil doesn't show constant power! I knew that but it seems like since my heart surgery there are some things that got lost in the memory pdf. My Grandsons still think I'm a walking book of useless knowledge though.

[tinnerjohn]

I figured out that the coil only has power on the negative side with the points opening and closing. And that I had bumped the coil wire off causing it not to start for some silly reason . I ran it with the field cutivator for a half hour or so, no problem. But yesterday I started it, hooked to the disc and stalled it. Now I have no power through the ignition switch to the coil, both sides of the switch are dead in the ON position. I have power from the battery to that side with the switch off, if I disconnect the wire to the coil the switch is hot on both sides like it should be. Does anybody have any ideas? Thanks.

John