Cub oil pressure

[JohnMihevic]

Oil remains in the bearings after engine is stopped and they are not dry. Oil is being pumped immediately upon engine start up, reaching the bearings, and flowing into/filling the oil filter housing.

That really helps me understand now. I never thought about the oil flow path. So, the critical engine bearings get the oil first and then the filter housing fills up, and there is no hurry about that.

[Pap]

I am glad to learn that. I was thinking like John.

[Clemsonfor]

Also in my experience "thicker" oil makes no difference whatsoever. Even 20W50 doesn't help.

I've seen it said on here before that thicker engine oil helped the oil pressure.
I don't think anyone disagreed with it being said then.

If you can link me to that thread I will be glad to go back and disagree with it, LOL.

Seriously, though, at one time in my history I had a Cub Loboy that the oil pressure got pretty low on after being worked for an hour or so. It would start around 35 and be down around 12 when I finished mowing. I had heard the "thicker oil" advice and went to straight 40. No change. I could not find straight 50 so I went to 20W50. Again, no change. Not even 1PSI.

Are you running a factory gauge? If so I really don't think there accurate down that low. I don't think you would see 5 to 10psi change, but probably a few psi that may not be noticeable on the gauge.

[Clemsonfor]

Oil remains in the bearings after engine is stopped and they are not dry. Oil is being pumped immediately upon engine start up, reaching the bearings, and flowing into/filling the oil filter housing.

That really helps me understand now. I never thought about the oil flow path. So, the critical engine bearings get the oil first and then the filter housing fills up, and there is no hurry about that.

An engineer who designed the system wouldn't be much of an engineer if he designed the system to deliver pressure to the gauge first instead of the bearings?

[Bill V in Md]

I am glad to learn that. I was thinking like John.

There is a very good description (including photos and diagrams) of the Cub’s Engine Lubrication System in Blue Ribbon Service Manual GSS-1013. It can be found in the pdf manuals.

[Pap]

Thanks Bill. I will check that out.

[Matt Kirsch]

I've seen it said on here before that thicker engine oil helped the oil pressure.
I don't think anyone disagreed with it being said then.

If you can link me to that thread I will be glad to go back and disagree with it, LOL.

Seriously, though, at one time in my history I had a Cub Loboy that the oil pressure got pretty low on after being worked for an hour or so. It would start around 35 and be down around 12 when I finished mowing. I had heard the "thicker oil" advice and went to straight 40. No change. I could not find straight 50 so I went to 20W50. Again, no change. Not even 1PSI.

Are you running a factory gauge? If so I really don't think there accurate down that low. I don't think you would see 5 to 10psi change, but probably a few psi that may not be noticeable on the gauge.

Nope, I was running a mechanic's test gauge because I was still in the "remote possibility that the gauge is bad" mode. The factory gauge was fine by the way.

[Ray wood]

Sorry for the break, other projects intervened. I failed to remove the oil pressure gauge. The housing on the gauge turned but the fitting into the oil filter casing didn't. I didn't want to get too vigorous with it and possibly crack the glass. The more I thought about it the less convinced I am that the gauge is the problem, anyway.

I thought I'd move on and remove the oil pan. Got to the three bolts by the flywheel and had to return to this forum to find out how to get to them. Looks like I need to take off the flywheel cover, right? Could be tomorrow's job. Glad I'm not relying on the tractor for my chores.

[Dale Finch]

Yes, remove the 4 bolts holding it in place. I use a 1/4" ratchet with an extension & universal 1/2" LOW PROFILE socket, similar to this:
https://www.amazon.com/CRAFTSMAN-Universal-Socket-4-Inch-CMMT99216/dp/B07QJ81SK4/ref=asc_df_B07QJ81SK4/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=505297440476&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=16074104821623384679&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9009672&hvtargid=pla-1197069080876&psc=1

Or this set:
https://capritools.com/shop/1-4-drive-universal-socket-set-sae/
Before I got the universal socket, I used a 1/4" drive with a regular universal, an extension and a 1/2" socket ground down.

[tnestell]

Maybe a 1/4" wobble extension would work.

[Clemsonfor]

I didn't have any problem with the rears. Between a half inch universal joint socket and a 1/4" drive with a wobble extension and just plain wrenches.

And yes you have to take the flywheel inspection cover off

[Ray wood]

I took off the oil pan and didn't see anything peculiar. I took out the oil filter and there's definitely oil coming into there from the pump. I took off the oil gauge but haven't worked out how to attach it to my compressor. I'll take the gauge off my other Cub and see if it works. So no solution yet but good practice.

[tst]

just use a air blower in the back of the gauge to see if it moves

[Ray wood]

Thanks. I tapped the gauge and blew on it with the compressor - and it seems fine. May have been a bit of gunk in it. Back in the tractor and all looks OK. Thanks again for all your help.