Double weights, do I still need chains?

[Monk89]

Will,

Your zipcode is Chardon, deemed by some as 'snow capital of Ohio.' Yes, you need chains. I live just a few miles north and east of Chardon, so my advice is based on years of experience using a Cub to plow snow in your neck of the woods. Check out my setup here http://www.farmallcub.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=95076&hilit=urethane&start=15. You can even come up and kick the tires on my setup. I'll put the coffee on.

Oh, $400 is cheaper than getting someone to 'push' your driveway for a season and the chains will last for years.

I'm sending you a PM.

Bill

Bill, thank you for the information. Your prior posts and set-up are what motivated me to obtain the double-weight set-up. I think it was the one with where you were saying the turfs, chains, and double weights were the way to go. Yes we get absolutely clobbered here with snow. All of our vehicles are 4wd. I'm looking at some chains now, here are a few contenders:

https://www.tirechainsrus.com/product1178.html

from another user above:

https://www.tractortirechains.com/Tract ... m?CartID=1

Not sure if that one is just a single, or if it's for a set. If it's the set I think that's a pretty good value. $300 ish is about what I can spend without my better half scrutinizing the budget.

[Monk89]

Agree with others when they say "You'll need chains."

I found mine years ago in a C*list ad for tractor chains for a Ford 8N or similar. I knew the circumference of my tire size and was able to match a used set that long or longer. Think I remember taking a foot or so off to fit my wheel diameter. Anyway, then some years later, I found another set of chains and I made cross links, which really improved the chains ability. The cross links prevent the chains from slipping down into the lugs on a field tire. If you have turf tires, then you probably don't need cross links.

Here's a link (no pun intended) to mine: http://farmallcub.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=65509&hilit=chains

Thank you, this is really interesting because there is a set of 8N chains on FB marketplace right up the street listed for $75. For that price I could modify them and maybe add a few cross sets to make them operate better. I am running the AGs on the rears. Turfs in the front.

[Monk89]

[quote="ricky racer"]Like Bill and the others have said, yes you need chains. Double wheel weights are a great start but chains with as many cross links as possible are the real key to traction in the snow and ice. Bill's chains have a lot of cross links and should work great. I added additional cross links to my chains and it made a real difference. Be patient and keep looking on FB Marketplace, Craigslist even eBay for a good deal. Check auction listings in your area (try Auctionzip and search for tire chains). Many auctions these days are online so you can bid without attending the auction. Check with tractor salvage yards in your area and place want ads on FB and Craigslist too. If you are diligent and keep looking, you'll find some chains. Remember, longer chains can be cut down and short chains can be added to if needed.
Getting back to the cross links, if you are running newer AG tires with 23 degree lugs like Firestone's chain cross links tend to fall in-between the lugs and don't do you any good. Having more cross links or a chain with a pattern like the first picture below will reduce the chance of cross links falling in between the lugs.

Ricky I was literally showing my father-in-law your post last week about that extra weight you have on the drawbar. Very cool setup. We were scheming up ways to add some weight, but also on how to fab up an attachment to pull my garbage cans up to the street off the rear draw bar.

[ricky racer]

Like Bill and the others have said, yes you need chains. Double wheel weights are a great start but chains with as many cross links as possible are the real key to traction in the snow and ice. Bill's chains have a lot of cross links and should work great. I added additional cross links to my chains and it made a real difference. Be patient and keep looking on FB Marketplace, Craigslist even eBay for a good deal. Check auction listings in your area (try Auctionzip and search for tire chains). Many auctions these days are online so you can bid without attending the auction. Check with tractor salvage yards in your area and place want ads on FB and Craigslist too. If you are diligent and keep looking, you'll find some chains. Remember, longer chains can be cut down and short chains can be added to if needed.
Getting back to the cross links, if you are running newer AG tires with 23 degree lugs like Firestone's chain cross links tend to fall in-between the lugs and don't do you any good. Having more cross links or a chain with a pattern like the first picture below will reduce the chance of cross links falling in between the lugs.

Ricky I was literally showing my father-in-law your post last week about that extra weight you have on the drawbar. Very cool setup. We were scheming up ways to add some weight, but also on how to fab up an attachment to pull my garbage cans up to the street off the rear draw bar.

Below is a link to the discussion with members here when I built it:
viewtopic.php?f=1&t=66190&p=539808#p539808

[Don McCombs]

We were scheming up ways to add some weight, but also on how to fab up an attachment to pull my garbage cans up to the street off the rear draw bar.

Your best bet would be to add a Fast Hitch and a platform carrier.

[SamsFarm]

A Cub with just one set of weights and ag treads can push a lot of snow as long as it has traction.

But when it ices up, then it is night and day difference and a Cub without the chains gets stuck on the ice so easily.

[Matt Kirsch]

We were scheming up ways to add some weight, but also on how to fab up an attachment to pull my garbage cans up to the street off the rear draw bar.

Your best bet would be to add a Fast Hitch and a platform carrier.

No need for a fast hitch you can rig up a platform carrier on the drawbar, even make it go up and down with the rear rockshaft.

I had a Cub disc at one time that mounted to the drawbar and used it as a pivot with the rear rockshaft as a lifting arm, and it worked almost exactly like a 3pt hitch. Cub 28 disc, maybe?

[Monk89]

Hey everyone, sorry for the delay in getting back to this, has been crazy at work. I did end up ordering and receiving the chains. I went with the double-links, about $370 all-in including shipping. I received them and was messing around with them last night. They are quite substantial, about 35 LBS a set. No way I could have fabricated something similar on my own. The double-links are big circles, they are huge. They are so big that they don't appear to fall between the AG treads. Will formally put them on this weekend to test them out. Next on my list is to install a quick on-off fuel valve, just tired of using the one under the gas tank and spinning it. Thanks again, will check in with photos once I have it all together, and later this winter.

Will

[staninlowerAL]

Next on my list is to install a quick on-off fuel valve, just tired of using the one under the gas tank and spinning it.....

Here's mine, got the parts at the local hardware store, quarter turn 1/8 pipe....If you want the details send me a PM.

[SamsFarm]

I just use that semi-fancy brass L shaped thingy on the end of the sediment bowl. You know, opposite of the fuel line out port.

[Jim Becker]

Several of us have made tools to reach the shut-off handle without reaching in through the obstacles.
viewtopic.php?f=144&t=46168

[Monk89]

Several of us have made tools to reach the shut-off handle without reaching in through the obstacles.
viewtopic.php?f=144&t=46168

This is a good design. Been using channel locks and was just tired of it.

[Eugene]

I convert all my sediment bowl shut off valves to ball valve. My only change is that I eliminated the sediment bowl and use inline filters.