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Changing your oil? Maybe go one step further?!!

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Eugene
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Re: Changing your oil? Maybe go one step further?!!

Postby Eugene » Sat Nov 26, 2022 6:01 pm

Dale Finch wrote:Eugene, how is an engine oil flush accomplished?
Fresh oil and filter change, add the engine oil flush. Run engine, time, per directions on bottle. Drain oil and new filter.

Haven't used any in many years. I think the stuff I used was left in the engine until the next oil change. Back then I was using non-detergent oil in the flat head Ford engines.

Walmart has one for around $5-. Auto parts store should have some.

I think it's worth a shot. Won't damage the engine.
I have an excuse. CRS.

NJ Farmer
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Re: Changing your oil? Maybe go one step further?!!

Postby NJ Farmer » Sat Nov 26, 2022 8:27 pm

I should have added that a “swivel socket” or a universal socket is best to get those 3 rear bolts that the oil pan is attached to the ALUMINUM rear main seal retainer. You will not get them out with a straight extension…..

NJ farmer

Note: no matter what kind of oil you are using or have been using it should probably be done once every ten years……just saying!

Gary Dotson
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Re: Changing your oil? Maybe go one step further?!!

Postby Gary Dotson » Sun Nov 27, 2022 8:31 am

Working at the research center, our emissions Dino lab did testing with a variety of oils. When we switched from one oil to the next, we had a special flush oil that was run in the engine for a specified amount of miles, then switched to the next candidate oil. At the end of the test, I bought one of the cars, the rear main seal went out within a month, I always blamed the flush oil. I don’t think I’d use engine flush.

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Re: Changing your oil? Maybe go one step further?!!

Postby Dale Finch » Sun Nov 27, 2022 10:32 am

Gary, do you think chemicals in the flush deteriorated the seal?

Not sure how much worse it could make the situation...there was a fair amount of dark, plus yellowish goo up near the bottom of the rear seal, when looking into the bottom of the engine block. I cleaned things up as best I could, but was hesitant to get too carried away with carb cleaner!

Did a quick Google search & this is quoted from the Amsoil site:

"Is an engine flush necessary?
A good engine flush can help loosen deposits and dissolve sludge, returning your engine to like-new condition. However, in old engines with high miles, the engine sludge may be the only barrier keeping engine oil from seeping through worn or cracked seals. Removing the sludge exposes the seals for what they really are – rubbish. Soon, your engine begins leaking oil, and your mind instantly associates the engine flush product with an oil leak.

In reality, the seals were already bad; the engine flush simply revealed their true condition.

If you suspect your vehicle falls into this camp, leave the engine alone and skip the engine flush. It’s probably not worth trying to revive an engine in such poor condition without first fixing the bad seals or other defects. In effect, you’re choosing your problem: either sludge and deposits robbing performance or, if you clean the engine, the seals showing their true condition."


Think I'll give it a try, knowing there might be seal replacements in the future. :?
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JimCub48
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Re: Changing your oil? Maybe go one step further?!!

Postby JimCub48 » Sun Nov 27, 2022 12:10 pm

I would stay away from the engine flush, I think you would be better off trying detergent oil and filter change a couple of times.You may avoid replacing seals.

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SONNY
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Re: Changing your oil? Maybe go one step further?!!

Postby SONNY » Sun Nov 27, 2022 4:41 pm

I buy 1 oil here ---series 3 diesel oil and everything on the farm drinks it!! diesel truck, gas explorer, all tractors, buldozers and small engines, and I have yet to blow one up as people have said would happen if you run diesel oil in gas motors.

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Re: Changing your oil? Maybe go one step further?!!

Postby Clemsonfor » Mon Nov 28, 2022 1:07 pm

Ha, diesel pin in gas engines won't do anything! I run it in a lot of gas stuff. Anyone who thinks that really doesn't know what there talking about.

As per the flush you can use half a quart or so of marvel mystery oil in the crank case. It tells you the percentage. I believe it's no more than 20% per the label. You can run it for a short period or longer, like work the engine hard doing something. It gradually removes that stuff. Some people will have you believe huge crusts of stuff will fall off and plug oil holes , galleries and your pickup. While anything could happen I have not heard of this happening. A guy I watch on YouTube who is a certified Ford mechanic up in Illinois did several MMO flushes in a high mileage personal truck of his..it had lots of gunk in the top of the engine. It was cleaning it over time. Like I said it didn't get it all in like 10 minutes but if it really is that bad I wouldn't want it to anyway.

Matt Kirsch
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Re: Changing your oil? Maybe go one step further?!!

Postby Matt Kirsch » Tue Nov 29, 2022 3:41 pm

I've had several oil pans off, from Cubs to Super Ms to 240s and never, not once, have I ever found any appreciable sludge in any of them.

If we're doing the anecdotal science thing, I can only conclude that sludge that bad is extremely rare, and pulling the oil pan should not really be a normal maintenance task.

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Dale Finch
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Re: Changing your oil? Maybe go one step further?!!

Postby Dale Finch » Tue Nov 29, 2022 8:32 pm

I agree that dropping the pan is not done often. I DO always poke a very thin screwdriver in after most oil has drained just to "feel" for any large items like the TC Pump nut or the washer.

I also stick my pinky finger in as far as I can go to feel for "grit".

Then I extend my small magnet and sweep around the pan, to see what metal particles are in the pan.

The oil pan on this tractor was SO filled with goo that I couldn't even get my pinky in! This was a first. :(
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