Cub died while mowing the yard

[Stanton]

I did notice briefly that there was a fog of fuel by the manifolds. The carburetor is about twice the size of a cub carb. The gasket looks like it’s making a seal but I can’t see any place else for the fog of fuel to come from. I recon after I fix the axle, I’ll replace the carb.

I'm sorry to hear you damaged your Cub pull-starting it.

This post screams "Pictures! Pictures! Pictures!" Think you'd be better served here with a few pictures to help us see what's going on. Here are a couple references describing attaching photos to a post:
How to Upload Pictures to a Post
Forum Picture Posting And Other Interesting Things You Can Do

It's best to have the pictures you want to upload already reduced in size before trying to post them. They need to be no bigger than 500kb.

1. Open the page on the Forum where you will create the post.
2. Write whatever description or text in the main "Topic Review" box.
3. Next, go down below the text box and you'll see two tabs: "Options" and "Attachments"; select "Attachments".
4. Click on the "Add Files" button and an iPhone menu (at least on my phone) comes up from the bottom of the screen with 3 options:
   
   1. "Take Photo or Video"
   2. "Photo Library"
   3. "Browse"
5. Select, say, "Photo Library", since you should have already resized the image and it's on your phone. Your phone should direct you to your photo library where you can search and select the resized picture you want. Select one.
6. Once the forum size requirements are met for that photo, an extended box will show up below the "Add Files" button. It will list your photo's file name, 2 buttons ("Place inline" and "Delete file"), and a "File comment:" box. If you type a brief description in the "File comment" box, it will show up in your post directly underneath your photo in italicized font. If you want a description or caption associated with the picture, then use this feature, otherwise, you can describe the photo in the main body of your post. If I recall, you may attach up to 6 photos in this manner, one at a time.
7. Once you have attached all the photos, you have a choice to either place them in-line (intermittent among your text in the post) or just leave all the photos to come up at the end of your text. If you have multiple pictures to post, they will be lodged below the main screen in reverse order. For example, if you have 3 pictures and want them to show up in the order you uploaded them, the first pic will be at the very bottom of the list. So, you'd just select that one first ("Place inline" button), then the next one up and so on. Remember, if you choose to leave them at the bottom and not place them in-line, they will appear in reverse order of how they were uploaded.

Hope this helps. Let us know if you want further explanation.

[Waif]

I did notice briefly that there was a fog of fuel by the manifolds. The carburetor is about twice the size of a cub carb. The gasket looks like it’s making a seal but I can’t see any place else for the fog of fuel to come from. I recon after I fix the axle, I’ll replace the carb.

Reads like a doozy....

Maybe more fuel than the air inlet can ratio near properly. Making for a major rich blend heavy on fuel.
You may have a deliberately cast weep hole in your lower manifold to allow rain and condensation to drain from. Could be your fog source.

[Gary Dotson]

No, the weep hole is on the exhaust portion of the manifold.

[Glen]

Hi,
If you saw fumes on the left side of the engine while sitting in the seat, when you were pulling the Cub, and the engine was turning over, it could have been fumes coming out of the crankcase breather, which is near the carburetor, it is on the end of the engine oil dipstick.

That would indicate that the piston rings have blowby.

The Cub might have a Zenith carburetor that someone put on it. They look different than an IH carb, and the mounting flange on the Zenith is bigger than the IH carb has.
IH started using the Zenith carb in mid 1975 on Cubs.

Below is a pic from TM Tractor of a Zenith carb for a Cub.

[outdoors4evr]

Since you now know that the cub sat longer than the previous owner hinted, you may want to start with priming the oil pump.
Secondly, put a tablespoon of oil in each spark plug hole to raise the compression - if ring related.

Pull start is probably the way to go. As mentioned, run the tow rope under the tractor and attach to drawbar. Use third (road) gear.
I wouldn't replace the carb - yet. They tend to drip, leak, and cause havoc during a no-start situation.

[Dirtdoc74]

Quick summary of history and action taken.
Previous owner used it for 25 years to mow his lawn ,42 inch cut mower. I don’t believe it sat outside much at all. He maintained it very good.
It died on him while mowing grass. It seems like someone had just replaced fan assembly. When I worked on it, it was obvious that all the screws and bolts to do the job had recently been removed. They forgot to put oil in the hub so it locked up, killing the engine.
It did sit outside long enough for 1 valve to stick openl, didn’t take much effort to get it moving. I put some mmo in each cylinder and let it soak for a week, that freed them up.
It had spark, but seems weak. The tester shows yellow spark, sometimes brighter than others. New distributor, points etc ordered.
Tried to pull start it, noticed fog above carb , below head, that’s when the axle snapped. The carb must be a zenith.
So the tractor was running good enough to mow grass, sat outside maybe couple months, had tin can on exhaust. Now it turns over good. I messed up breaking axle. Seems like little gremlins holding it back from running. With all your wonderful advice success is just a matter of time.

[Waif]

No, the weep hole is on the exhaust portion of the manifold.

Aye.

[Dirtdoc74]

Just noticed after I limped the broken cub into the tool shed that the oil dipstick was popped out of the tube. Was hitting the carb. Maybe this has so much blow by it pushed it right out of the tube. I’m sure I would have it all the way down before I started to pull it. I always wanted to fully rebuild a Cub engine. I believe I might have a candidate.

[Glen]

Hi,
If you can get the engine to run, try using Seafoam additive in the engine oil.
People on here say it works well to loosen stuck piston rings, and reduce oil burning.

One of the experts on here said to use it for 2 oil change periods.
The 1955 Cub operator's manual says to change the oil every 150 hours.

They also say on here to work the engine while using the Seafoam.
It is sold at auto parts stores.
If the rings are wornout, the Seafoam won't help much.

If crankcase pressure blew the dipstick out some, the breather material might be dirty, or plugged.
The Cub operator's manual says wash it out with kerosene every time the oil is changed.

[Clemsonfor]

Hi,
If you can get the engine to run, try using Seafoam additive in the engine oil.
People on here say it works well to loosen stuck piston rings, and reduce oil burning.

One of the experts on here said to use it for 2 oil change periods.
The 1955 Cub operator's manual says to change the oil every 150 hours.

They also say on here to work the engine while using the Seafoam.
It is sold at auto parts stores.
If the rings are wornout, the Seafoam won't help much.

If crankcase pressure blew the dipstick out some, the breather material might be dirty, or plugged.
The Cub operator's manual says wash it out with kerosene every time the oil is changed.

I agree with Dale. There breather must be plugged up for it to blow out. It's basically got course steel wool inside it. It's possible I guess dirt daubers clogged it up. But you can literally have so much blow by it won't even run and that oil filler shouldn't blow out. Mine fits pretty tight too.

[Dirtdoc74]

I looked at the breather material thinking I’d find dry,, crusty oil and dirt. But it looks cleaner than my other cubs. Fits good and snug in the tube too. So far I think I’ve been ready to take it apart 3 different time. And 3 times been given another trick to try. I greatly appreciate that. My ignition parts came in, so I’ll see if that helps to get it to run. If it start, might be awhile before I can work it hard. No front wheels make it hard to move.

[Dirtdoc74]

I have the front axle tube ready to drive out the pin. Tool out the two bolts, I can wiggle it and nothing is tight but that rascal won’t come out. I’m missing something. Doesn’t seem to be binding anywhere, is there another set bolt, key way or what? I don’t want to get too physical with it unless I’m sure it’s a burr on the pin.

[SamsFarm]

The pin under the radiator housing?

If so, you might need the drive it out!

Ps, chances are your front axle was already cracked!

I had one break once also, limped it back to the shop, tore one off another cub and installed it, and back to work.

Eventually I swapped them back, and the broken one was repaired before being reinstalled!

[Don McCombs]

After the two bolts are removed, the only things in there are the pin and two washers. Is it possible it is hanging up on one of the washers? Have you taken the weight off of the axle assembly?

[Dirtdoc74]

The wheel /axle assembly is off on both sides. Only main tube remains. I can visually see that the pin is moving freely in circles. Looks like I should be able to push it out with my fingers. I never thought about the washers. It almost seems like a spring pin was hidden in there somewhere. Turns 1/4 turn easy but no movement back and forth.