'48 C60 engine rebuild

[Cubfriend]

On page 1-41 of the Service Manual I do not understand this statement:

NOTE: If necessary, install a new wear sleeve onto the fan drive pulley using the FES 33-4 fan drive pulley wear sleeve installer as shown. Be sure to apply a sealer onto the pulley O. D. or the I. D. of the wear sleeve before installing the wear sleeve onto the pulley.

When I look at my pulley I do not find a sleeve, so I am not sure how to understand this.

But when I look at the idler gear I do see a bushing that appears to be pressed into the gear. I have been using the Service Manual but I don't see any reference to this bushing so that I can check the clearance. I went ahead and installed the idler gear. I did not notice any slop related to that bushing. Later I found the information on the bushing on page 10 of GSS-1008. As I read through GSS-1008 I noticed that many of the specs in the Service Manual are specified as a wider range of values in GSS-1008, with the Service Manual value typically the minimum value. Example the Main bearing bolt torque is 55 ft-lbs in the service manual but 55 to 60 in GSS-1008. A similar story for the rod bearing bolts and the idler gear bolt. While I meet the minimum should I revisit them to get into the mid range (or does it even matter for my old school snap action torque wrench)?

And on a third topic I find that some of my parts were not clearly labeled when I removed them from the tractor. Oops! So I have been looking up the parts specifications on Messicks to confirm the correct bolt, etc. But I cannot find the valve cover bolts or studs on Messicks and my memory is not clear as to what I should put in those two holes? Can anyone point me in the correct direction to look this info up?

For clarification the fan drive pulley is the crankshaft pulley. They commonly get a groove worn into them over time that warrants replacing the pulley or repairing it with a sleeve over the groove where the front seal runs on the pulley.

[Glen]

Hi,
The valve cover bolts have sealing washers under the heads. If you have a new gasket set for the engine, hopefully 2 new ones came in set.
Or maybe the old ones are still good.
They are sort of expensive to buy separately. Below is a post from a few days ago discussing them.

viewtopic.php?f=1&t=114554

Below is a listing for them at TM Tractor, you can see what they look like.

http://www.tmtractor.com/new/en/934fp.htm

[phill_mi]

I am considering getting new head bolts, and I have read many of the threads regarding head bolts. But I also noticed that McMaster Carr has the 3/8- 16 Grade 8 in both the 2 3/8 and the 3 1/4 lengths, meaning no grinding bolts or extra washers. I note that they have them in both the Zinc-Yellow Chromate and in Zinc-Flake Coated (which has a higher corrosion resistance). Any reason to not use the Zinc-Flake Coated?

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

I have used the zinc aluminum bolts from McMaster and have been really pleased with them. The plating does last longer than regular zinc yellow chromate. I also use the zinc aluminum when I don't want to see a bright yellow plating on hardware.

Curious, MCM no longer lists zinc aluminum, but now has zinc flake. I am pretty sure it is the same. I wonder why the name change. Must be a trade name thing.

[phill_mi]

I almost ordered the zinc flake from MCM, but at the last minute I placed the order with TM along with some other items. I am still debating whether I should retorque my bearing cap bolts using the GSS-1008 values rather than the Service Manual value, as described above. The '48 C60 did not use locking nuts on the rods and my machinist said to just make sure I met the torque specs and it would be fine. It has a nut that is similar to a castle nut, but there is not space for a cotter pin. So I torqued rod nuts to 16 ft-lbs. but wondering if I should redo it to get in the middle of 16 - 20 ft-lbs. I am also not sure of the accuracy of my old snap-over torque wrench, or if it matters.

[Gary Dotson]

They’re likely fine as they are but if it will give peace of mind, go for it.

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

I always use a drop of red loctite on rod bolts. Unless it's a new engine using new or upgraded rod bolts.

[phill_mi]

As I make notes for the future on the steps that I have done so far, I have a question about how you folks measure crankshaft thrust clearance. Is that measurement done after applying assembly lube to the bearing, or before?

[Glen]

The Cub service manual doesn't really say about that, that I saw, but the other bearing clearances are measured dry of oil, so probably the crankshaft end play is also.
Below is the page from GSS-1411 telling how to measure it, if you need it.
It begins at the 2nd note, on down the page.
You can remove the cap and put oil on the bearing after measuring.

http://farmallcub.com/rudi_cub/www.clea ... -01-51.jpg

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

Thrust should always be measured dry. Even a thin film of oil can affect the measurement.

[phill_mi]

Installing Crankshaft Pully
I suspect the solution is patience and persistence, but I am interested in any advice on how to line up the pully to the woodruff key. I am using all thread screwed into the crankshaft with a nut, washers, and a piece of iron to push the pully onto the crankshaft. I also heated up my pulley, but with the delays I doubt that made any difference. I have to use the press to move the pulley onto the shaft at least a 1/16" before it starts to contact the woodruff key and each time I tried it just pushed the key out of the shaft slot. The pulley is new from TM. On my last try for tonight I had to rig up a jig to pull the pulley back off of shaft. (I did not plan ahead for that eventuality so I had to scramble to make a puller jig.) After I got the pulley free, I checked the key in the pulley slot and initially it did not want to slide into the slot. Maybe that is the problem. I may have dislodged a burr because now it slides into the slot with a very tight fit. But it is late and I did not try to put it on the shaft again. Any suggestions on how to line up the key would be appreciated. I put non-harding permatex #2 on the cover gasket, but left it loose until I get the pulley mounted. So I hope the delay does not cause a problem with the gasket.
Thanks, Phill

[Gary Dotson]

I’ve never had an issue aligning the key way, maybe file the leading end edge of the key way a bit to help with the lead in and deburr the entire key way.

[Bill V in Md]

In addition to heating the pulley, you could also put the key in the freezer, until ready to install.

[phill_mi]

Oil Pump:
Should I put assembly lube on the oil pump gears? I was thinking not as I will prime the pump prior to starting the engine.

Regarding the fan drive pulley, thanks for all the advice on that issue. I finally got it. I can't count the number of times I pressed the new pulley onto the crankshaft just to have the woodruff key back out of the slot, and then had to setup the jig to press the pulley off the shaft. It was a tight fit, but after sanding down the front corners of the key and the pulley I finally got them to line up correctly.

[Eugene]

Oil Pump: Should I put assembly lube on the oil pump gears?

Wouldn't hurt anything.