New Here... Just bought a '49

[agarb]

Introductory post.

Just bought a 1949 Cub in what I consider poor/fair condition. Should be a winter project for me. Starts and runs well. Biggest issue is cracked steering bolster but I found one for what seems to be a good price about 2 hours away that I am scheduled to pick up on Saturday. Also missing the grill and the seat looks awful.

Also I notice there is some transmission (?) noise that stops when I push in the clutch. Hopefully this isn't a kiss of death.

Has a dead 6v battery so a 12v conversion is probably on the horizon. Just upgraded the Super H with all new wiring and a Hitachi 14231 last month so thinking I may try to do the same on this one. I don't have any other 6v equipment so would be nice to have everything 12v.

The goal is to have a mechanically sound "work" tractor to mow my small pasture.

My first question is about a 1 bottom plow that is for sale locally. Seller says it came off a Cub. I'm wondering if somebody can take a look at some photos and tell me if I would have everything needed to hook it to my Cub. I do not have hydraulics nor a proper drawbar. I'm hopeing the existing lever mechanism currently used to raise/lower the mower can work with the plow.

Pictures of Cub in the next post.

[agarb]

Here are pics of the Cub itself.

[Gary Dotson]

Welcome to the forum! yes, that's a Cub plow but it does require the original style draw bar, that's easy enough to find. It also requires a depth control, a lever that mounts to the right final drive. That will likely cost you more than the plow.

the transmission noise is likely failed bearings on the trans. input / clutch shaft. Not a real difficult repair but does require splitting the tractor at the front of the transmission.

I don't know how expensive the Hitachi alternator is, but many of us have used the mini Denso, one wire alternator with great results. The last ones I bought were $37 from Ebay.
Good luck with your project.

[agarb]

Thanks for the response, Gary.

Can anybody refer me to a picture of the depth control so I know what I'm looking for? Is the depth control only used with the plow or other implements as well?

The guy selling me the bolster does have a drawbar so that is not a problem. I'll see if he has a depth control as well.

The reman Hitachi 14231 that I bought for the Super H was $41 shipped, from Rockauto. I like the idea of having the H and Cub being the same in the event one alternator fails I could borrow the other one in a pinch.

[agarb]

Ah, nevermind. I googled it and found some good photos on how it all mounts.

[Stanton]

Welcome to the Forum! While I'm thinking of it, would you edit your profile Zip Code? It has one too many numbers in it. Thanks!

Take some time and read through a few threads to acquaint yourself with the Forum:

• Welcome Wagon
• How to Upload Pictures to a Post
• Forum Picture Posting And Other Interesting Things You Can Do
• Using the Forum

Don't know if you have any of the manuals to your Cub, but now that you’ve logged your 2nd post, you'll have access to the all the PDF Manuals on this site. There’s a few ways to do that:

• From a desktop or laptop, go to "Quick Links" in the upper left corner of your screen. Hit that and a pull-down appears where you'll find "PDF Manuals".
• You can also go to “Cub Info” in the upper toolbar, then hit “Rudi’s Manuals”. From there, you can access a variety of information.
• If you're using a phone, go to the "Links Directory" (second category down the main page). Once in "Links Directory" , scroll down to the second section "Tractor Parts & Manuals" and you'll find them there.

You'll be able to download an Owner's Manual (very strongly recommended) and any service manuals that interest you. Implement Manuals are also available, including the manual for the 193 plow, which you're interested in buying.

We’d encourage you to take the Safety Test located in the Safety Forum: http://farmallcub.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?f=33&t=68084

Might also enjoy reading through this thread (even though it’s for a Cub, much can be applied to any tractor just brought home): What to do with a Cub you just brought home

There are a lot of good threads dealing with Cub repair and maintenance in the How To Forum. Located here: http://farmallcub.com/phpBB2/viewforum.php?f=11

Take some pictures of your tractors and post them, we’d like to see them. That rear right tire appears to be the same pattern as the original tires issued from IHC; could be original.

Remember:
• When you have a specific question, start a new thread in the appropriate sub-forum.
• Before posting, use the Preview button before hitting Submit--it'll show you exactly what your post will look like, including pictures.
• When adding your comments to a thread, be sure to look at the date of the last poster. If it’s more than a 6 months old, the posters are probably not going to see it. Consider starting a new thread.

Glad you joined us.

[John *.?-!.* cub owner]

You need a picture of that plow from the right side, the condition of the point is a big factor. From the little I could see it does not look to good. If you have a real blacksmith in your area they can sharpen it and put a new point on as needed, but it has to be a real blacksmith, not one that only makes decorations. If needed, there is a company called Ploworx that will make a new point/share, which ever you prefer to call it, but expect to pay $125 to $150 for it.

[Ky Cub]

PM Sent...................

[Glen]

Hi,
The Cub operator's manual can help you learn about maintenance that the Cub needs.

Below is the 1949 Cub operator's manual. The experts on here recommend people read it. It has lots of info about operation, maintenance, and lubrication. There is a table of contents on page 1.
It shows how Cubs originally looked in it. The lube section begins on page 14.

http://farmallcub.com/rudi_cub/www.clea ... index.html

It shows the electrical system that a 1949 Cub originally had.
Cubs made before mid 1964 originally had 6 volt, positive ground electrical systems.

The 10W oil mentioned in the manual for the Touch Control, was changed later to use Case IH Hy-Tran fluid. It is sold at Case IH dealers.
There are other brands, be sure it works with IH hydraulic systems before buying one.

I would check or change all the oils before using the Cub. Using it with low oil in a gear housing can damage the parts in the housing.
There are 3 separate gear housings, with 3 separate oil levels to check, in the rear area of a Cub, the transmission, and 2 final drives.

The transmissions in Cubs commonly get water in them, from rain, or condensation inside the housing over time.

It looks like your Cub has what they call on here a Trimmed Dash.
It is different than the dash most Cubs have. It was used for a short time, in the late 1940's.
Barnyard knows about them, maybe he will comment.

Below are pics from TM Tractor of the style of dash most Cubs have. But they shortened the wrap around of the sides during 1949. This one would fit your Cub, I think in your pics it has the longer wrap around attaching, made on the hood.

http://www.tmtractor.com/tm-tractor/gsu ... ng_001.htm

In your pics it looks like the clutch pedal has a problem. It is too low.
It should be held up against the platform edge by a return spring under the platform.
But it shouldn't go as low as it is even if the spring is gone.
It is supposed to have 1" of free play at the top end of it's travel.
Page 40 in the manual above tells how to adjust the clutch pedal free play.

Below is a listing at TM Tractor for a new clutch pedal spring.
The same spring is used on the brake pedals, there should be 3 springs under the platform.

http://www.tmtractor.com/new/cl/864fp.htm

Other things to check.
Sometimes the clutch pedal gets tight in the housing at it's base. It should work freely, up from the position where it is in your pics.
If it is tight, it needs lubing at the base, and freeing. It may take time to work penetrating oil into the pivot. Usually you can pull the pedal out of the housing about 1/4", that helps to work oil into the pivot. Lube the pivot with motor oil when it is free. Push the pedal in again when done lubing it.

If the pedal is not tight moving, I would look up through the hand hole under the clutch area, and see if the throwout bearing is worn. The graphite sticks out of a new bearing 5/16".
You could grease the throwout bearing grease fitting while you are under there.
They say on here to use cheap grease, so the oil in the grease absorbs into the graphite.
The clutch pressure plate fingers may need their height adjusted.

Below is a listing for a new battery box, if you want to look at the pics. This is the style box that Cubs originally have.
There are pics of the box in the manual above. There should be 4 holes to fasten it to under the flat piece in your pics.
The rear light bracket originally fastens to the bracket on the rear of the box.

http://www.tmtractor.com/new/el/5721fp.htm

Good luck with the Cub.

[Barnyard]

Your zip code has too many numbers to tell where you live, but it appears you are probably in Ohio. If so, there is a CubFest Friday and Saturday near Cincinnati that you should attend. There will be some knowledgeable folks here who can answer many of your questions. There is also a Cub here that has a plow mounted (and several plows not mounted) so you can see and learn more about what a good plow should look like.

[Gary Dotson]

Right, Bill! I was wondering if he might be somewhere in the Dayton area.

[Stanton]

Your zip code has too many numbers to tell where you live, but it appears you are probably in Ohio. If so, there is a CubFest Friday and Saturday near Cincinnati that you should attend. There will be some knowledgeable folks here who can answer many of your questions. There is also a Cub here that has a plow mounted (and several plows not mounted) so you can see and learn more about what a good plow should look like.

He edited it. Appears to be in/around Pleasant Hill, OH, just north of Dayton. I'd also echo Barnyard and Gary's suggestion to attend the Shallow Creek CubFest, just north of Harrison, OH. Even if you can only attend Saturday, it would be well worth it. If you can bring your Cub, then all the better.

Bill and Rosie are the hosts of this CubFest and one earlier in the year called the Barnyard Bash. They have a website with more info, including directions: http://www.barnyardbash.com/ Check out the "How to Find Us" link on the left side of their site.

[agarb]

Thanks for all the feedback.

Let's just say the location I entered is a "nearby" zip code and leave it at that. I hate to provide too much personal info online, no matter how benign it seems.

Glen - thanks for all the tips on the clutch.

And fluids are at the top of the list of things I need to do. There is evidence of some leaks that need fixed. This will be a winter project.

[Clemsonfor]

A zip code is a HUGE area. I totally get what you mean when you say that. I usually only enter my county. Now I get it if your ZIP code may have like 500 people or less in it how you may be worried. But what you did works just as well.

Still sounded like you put one to many numbers into your ZIP code.

[Barnyard]

I have a feeling that is a 1948 Cub.