'55 Cub "Refurbishing"

[Dale Finch]

Guess you are still here (for now!), so I continue...

I did a few small things:
Removed, cleaned & primed the seat post & mating platform area then installed it & oiled the post.
Wire brushed & primed the water inlet, then it with a new hose, clamps and gasket.
Installed a new fuse holder, then added missing wires.

The distributor was disassembled...good thing, because one of the 2 weight springs was unattached, with the washer off the post. So in addition to not having the one weight operational, there was evidence of the Weight Guard being rubbed by the "loose" weight. I decided to try beinding the hook on the spring, to shorten it a bit, and reuse it.

I installed a new Terminal Insulator to replace the broken one. Serviced the distributor per the manual, gapping the points to .020".

I installed a zerk fitting into both the distributor housing and base, and greased per the manual, then replaced the plugs. Installed the distributor with new breaker cover gasket and felt seal, and swapped out the chipped rotor for what I think is a good used one.

There had been a little bit of slop in the governor rockshaft, so while it was off, I installed a new woodruff key (from TM Tractors, a forum sponsor).

You can see the worn top edge of the old key on the left:

Governor rockshaft reinstalled after lubricating ALL the linkages. Everything is now moving freely!

[Dale Finch]

And we march on...I really should do this post more often to keep from totally boring you!! We're getting close to being up to date though!!

Ran my newly made up NEGATIVE battery cable up to the starter, with its new Starter Switch. It is a 1/0 welding cable, and I went ahead and had the welding shop crimp on the stud end. I have a FUSION pre-soldered terminal for the Neg. battery post end that I still need to attach, once all the wiring is run. That cable is a tight fit, but it works, is very flexible, and I even was able to get the clips over it (not yet installed in the photo). The hard one is the one that wedges at the clutch pedal to prevent wear. It's a PITA to install, but if you have ever seen that cable short out against the pedal...those sparks truly fly!!

I had previously cleaned the air cleaner and the crankcase breather, so installed the assembly with new hoses and clamps, then filled the cleaner cup with engine oil. Installed the previously rebuilt carb.
HINT: if you aren't familiar with the little "baby" hitch pins, they are much easier than cotter pins for most of the rod linkages in the cub.

Cleaned, primed and installed the clutch housing and handhole covers.
Cleaned, primed and installed the mounting brackets for the coil, V-regulator and generator. Of course, being me, I had to take them back off and remove the paint from all the mating surfaces, to provide the needed grounding!!

Installed and wired up the coil, V-regulator and generator. Per suggestions from some of you, I turned the regulator around so the 3 terminals were on the inside. Then installed my new Clancey radiator (TM Tractors, again) with new hose and clamps. I had had a friend weld on the missing nut to the upper left radiator channel, then cleaned, primed and painted, those plus the fan and fan shroud. They were the only things actually painted, rather than primed, but I couldn't let that pretty new radiator be surrounded by "ugly"!!

Filled the fan hub per the manual.

Added the 3 quarts of engine oil, then filled the steering gear housing per the manual.

As soon as I get the negative battery terminal soldered on, I plan to do a compression check, then see if this beastie will actually run!!
So! Caught up for now...hopefully only a few more posts to go, before she goes back out to the farm, awaiting spring!

[SONNY]

It GOTTA run cause it had the Dale touch!! LOL! Lookin great and looks like you found/fixed several things that most would have overlooked! --- Great job!

[JimCub48]

I am looking at your pic with the oil, is that sae 30 non detergent conventional oil, what is the 100 mean ,Thanks ps it is hard to find straight 30 oil here.

[Eugene]

SAE 30 weight oil. ISO 100 weight oil which is the same weight oil as SAE 30.

On the non-detergent oil. Locally, it's not stocked on the display floor. Have to ask the clerk who goes into the back room for your oil.

[Don McCombs]

https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/produ ... ae-30-1-qt

[Jim Becker]

As you look closely at those oil cans, you will see that it is labeled "lubricating oil", not "motor oil". A close inspection of the containers would find it has no API rating and might find a warning not to use it in an engine.

I've gone over to the dark side on detergent motor oil. I don't think it is likely to cause a problem, even in an old dirty engine. Anecdotal evidence otherwise seems to be very old and rooted in the early days of detergent oil when it did cause some problems.

[Dale Finch]

SAE 30 weight oil. ISO 100 weight oil which is the same weight oil as SAE 30.

On the non-detergent oil. Locally, it's not stocked on the display floor. Have to ask the clerk who goes into the back room for your oil.

YEP! What Eugene said. I would buy it by the 5gal jug, but all they carry is the quarts. At least I can get it by the case...and I get a "shop" discount from having done my restorations in a local body shop...they still give it to me! (Probably give it to everybody!)

I agree with you, Jim...just haven't made the switch. I guess it is from my old VW days! With the filters these days and the frequency of oil changes, I could probably switch with no problem. This particular engine, though, was FILTHY...so I am hoping to run the crap out of it then change oil & filter sooner than normal.

[Dale Finch]

Time to catch up, because I have some questions!

I got the new battery cable installed, a 2/0 welding cable. I had the welding shop crimp on the starter lug end, but added the Negative Pre-soldered FUSION Terminal myself...very easy!

2/0 Welding Cable - less than $3/foot

FUSION Pre-soldered negative right angle terminal

Although the nicely cleaned and painted starter bench tested good, the starter switch would not make contact, even when replaced with a new one. I smoothed out the contacts inside the switch and the starter "nub" under the switch, but still no go. Fortunately I had a spare starter on the shelf, and after cleaning it up, and installing the new starter switch, it tested good, and worked after installed! At least the patina matched better!!

Testing a spare starter - it's good!

I did compression tests:
DRY: #1 0, #2 98, #3 85, #4 95
Added PB Blaster into each cylinder, and handcranked it 6-8 revolutions to distribute oil, then added some engine oil, hand cranked it, and let it sit over night.
WET: #1 92, #2 100, #3 97, #4 110
I plan to use seafoam in gas and oil, and run the heck out of it once I have it going!!

Static timed the distributor, then attempted a start. HOLY COW! I thought I had a mosquito fogger in my driveway!! All that oil in the cylinders smoked like crazy! I did have good oil pressure.

First running - good oil pressure, hydraulics work

Installed the taillight bracket and light, making sure all mating surfaces were bare and clean of paint & rust. Tested and light worked, though sure won't blind you!

Rear light works, both white and red (internal red bulb)

Installed the fuel tank, which was clean. I had already cleaned the sediment bowl, and replaced the screen and gasket.

Fuel tank, fortunately quite clean!

A few observations from the test running:
1. A slight seeping at the oil filter bolt. Removed the cover, cleaned the area around the bolt hole, and reinstalled.
2. The Ammeter still showed no charging, even though I had polarized the new voltage regulator, and the generator had been rebuilt by a local shop. Swapped out the ammeter with a spare, and at least it did show discharge when the lights were turned on. But no charging yet.
3. One head bolt showed a tiny amount of water (haven't put antifreeze in yet) around the head of the bolt. (I will tackle this when I have the courage to remove and seal that bolt! Lt. Mike, let me know how your job goes!!)
4. A few drops of oil below the clutch housing cover, so may indicate a new rear seal in its future.

I added the 2 McCORMICK emblems that I happened to have and that were missing. Also put tinnermen nuts on 3 posts of the FARMALL CUB emblems. They had had screws put in to hold them in place.

[k hutchins]

So far so good. Happy it fired and ran.
Was that the distributor you got from me? Not sorry l swapped it out for a mag considering you had work to do on it if it was.
When you pull that head bolt, don't forget to dope the threads. That may solve your problem.
Great posts and pics. Keep up dating. Look forward to the rest of the progress.

[Dale Finch]

I'm only one day of work from being up-to-date on my posts, but have run into a couple of snags.

The no charge situation - if I can't resolve that, I'll take the generator and regulator to the rebuilders and have them bench test both together. I suspect they did NOT test the v-reg. When I called them today, they stated what I already know...that just because they are new, often regulators don't work. I thought that a bit strange since they sold it to me!

I'm actually not sure if this is your distributor or not. I may need to open it up again to swap out some of the advance mechanism parts with another one I have on the shelf.

And there's the "seeping"head bolt...

Good part is that I have no time frame, and the project is right here in my garage, so I can putter, then take a break!

And the longer it takes, the longer time before I'm looking for another project to buy!!

[Jim in SC]

Dale, interesting post about the "seeping head bolt." I'm on a parallel refresh with my Cub - I even finished the rear light this last weekend, like you did, After I got the light working (pic is posted in my last thread), I went and looked at my engine head and also noticed one of the head bolts weeping and rusted. It was one of the center bolts. Hmmm. I got my wrench out and pulled the head on the spot. I had reset the head maybe two months ago with a new gasket and everything, but neglected (oops) to coat the head bolt threads with pipe dope, soooo - they leaked. I posted my question about the leaking problem and Don and Gary quickly gave me some great advice about using PTFE thread sealer. I got some yesterday and am now just waiting on a new head gastket to reset the head. Then I'm looking forward to that huge cloud of blue smoke that you mentioned when I start it for the first time!

[Dale Finch]

Jim, we DO seem to be on similar/parallel paths with these cubs. Wouldn't it be nice if this COVID would go away so we could get together and do these tasks together?!

I haven't decided whether I will:
1. Remove the head, get a look inside, replace the gasket, and reinstall the head (with Permatex Copper Spray & thread sealant).
OR
2. Just remove that one head bolt, get a new one and install it with sealant.

Sometimes I'm an indecisive chicken-s#*t!!

Who is the best source for head bolts, and what are the correct sizes & lengths? I know I could look them up, but figured you guys know these things, since several folks have just posted doing this job!

[Jim in SC]

Dale, I do agree that the head bolts should probably be replaced, but I'm taking a chance that they're okay. I did replace one that was pretty poor in appearance and I happened to have a good grade 8 bolt that fit fine. The other ones - hmmm - like I said - I'll chance them. i'm sure that you'll get a good answer on where to get some new replacement ones though. Maybe Fastenal?

I agree about the time frame too - what would I be doing if didn't have a Cub project? Well, okay, I do have a couple of yard chores and the H needs a tune, so there is always something else to do!

[Dale Finch]

Of course there are other jobs to do, but...!!!