shoe blade height for snow 54A

[inairam]

Should the shoe skids let the blade rest on level ground or should there be a gap? A gap will save pavement but leave snow that could turn to ice.

I have two cubs (74 and 75) set up for snow both with 54A grader blades. I have one setup that has no gap and one with a small gap.

I guess the only way to change it ( same bolt holes) is to bend the shoes.

[radioguy41]

If it's a metal scrapper I'd leave it up about an inch or a little less, if the scrapper's been replaced with vinyl I'd probably let it ride on the surface.

[Barnyard]

It should be slightly off the ground to protect the cutting edge. If you leave it on the ground, I see no reason for the shoes.

[ricky racer]

I quit using shoes on my plow years ago. Why have a blade up off of the ground and leave snow to pack down and turn to ice? I prefer to scrape all the way down to gravel or pavement. I have one driveway of gravel and one of concrete. I'm reluctant to scrape the gravel driveway until the ground freezes a bit. After the ground is frozen I drop the blade down and plow away.

[Don McCombs]

If you want to have your blade down on the pavement, but not mark or gouge it, Bill’s method below is the way to go…

viewtopic.php?t=59064

[Jim Becker]

Notwithstanding Ricky's comment, generally, you want to have a little more gap below the blade if you are plowing on (potentially loose) gravel. Ultimately, you do whatever works for you. By the way, the relationship between the shoes and the edge of the blade will change some depending on how far forward you lean the blade. Tipping it forward effectively raises the shoes.

[Lt.Mike]

With the blade in direct contact yes it’ll scrape it clear and have the best shot at the days sun totally removing it from black top. It’ll also cause damage when it catches a crack or edge.
I carefully scrape my blacktop clear but have damaged it in the past. I don’t like ice either so I chance it. When I go to my neighbors gravel driveway I lift it that inch so I’m not moving his gravel all over.
I’d think a good compromise would be to set the shoes with a 1/2” gap.
It’s been suggested to buy a rubber stall mat from tractor supply (they are cheap) and cut it into strips to use as a cutting edge. That would be the ticket for concrete drives avoiding rusty scrape stains.

[Waif]

I run on ice or hardpacked snow on the dirt road. Want it to stay frozen as long as possible.
Shoes keep trucks plow off the ground.

Too , running on shoes reduces resistance.
Were I running a Cub , (my Cub plow was welded a lot to keep it from tripping by a previous owner and I don't agree with it not tripping) I'd still run on shoes.

Concrete I can scrub with the snowblower or shovel on walk areas.
Were I only using a Cub , I'd wait for a warm day and lower the plow/raise the shoes to allow scraping to concrete.
Yes , that would mean multiple tries till the ice/hardpack is soft enough with very limited days before spring for thaws.

[Winfield Dave]

If you want to have your blade down on the pavement, but not mark or gouge it, Bill’s method below is the way to go…

http://www.farmallcub.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=59064

I run rubber edge on macadam, gravel and grass. Have for several years.

[inairam]

I did not set up this tractor last year for snow and did not use this blade for 3 years. I forgot I purchased a urethane edge until LT Mike made the suggestion. I put on today by using the sandwich method using the cutting edge.

I was thought to plow snow with the blade not on the ground. It workers well at saving the pavement and blade if there is sun on the area. I have a lot of shade the last 150 feet to the house and made a lot of ice the other day. The other Cub I have set up is for a gravel drive and that was set up to be on the ground because it is mostly used on the gravel.

[lowgearfarm]

Started plowing with my '49 in 1976. I wore through two sets of plow shoes after using them on asphalt for a few years. Took off the shoes and ran the blade right on the asphalt until the cutting edge got too close to the main blade. Flipped the cutting edge over (top to bottom) to get a few more years, then later flipped it right to left to get a few more years (one side always seemed to wear faster than the other). Then bought a new cutting blade. Wore through that one in a few years. Had a hard time finding new cutting edges, but did find a sympathetic welder who offered to make cutting edges for me. He's asked if I wanted hardened steel or milder steel. I opted for the mild steel (without really knowing why), but in retrospect, I'm glad I did. Better to wear out a cutting edge than the driveway - easier to replace. We're now into the 46th year of plowing.

[Barnyard]

then later flipped it right to left to get a few more years (one side always seemed to wear faster than the other).

Did you drill a new hole for the center bolt or leave it out?

[SamsFarm]

In my opinon shoes are set so you dont push all your gravel / slag / limestone, or whatever you have that is loose into the grass while plowing snow.

Unless you enjoy raking the driveway out of the grass in the spring!

Shoes might also benefit incase you have something (like a frost heaved concrete section) that your blade might catch on!

[lowgearfarm]

then later flipped it right to left to get a few more years (one side always seemed to wear faster than the other).

Did you drill a new hole for the center bolt or leave it out?

Good catch, Barnyard. I left the center bolt out (and carefully put the bolt somewhere - I forget just where). When faced with the option of "perfection" versus "good 'nuff" I lean more toward the latter. I figure that I can get more work finished that way [smiley face].