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Magneto problem?

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dennnis79
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Magneto problem?

Postby dennnis79 » Sun Feb 05, 2006 11:17 pm

It seems like these little problems won't stop. I rebuild the engine last year and had a full summer's worth of work. I just got a sinking carb float replaced last week. I had the tractor out letting it warm up before I was going to scrape the driveway.

It was humming along nicely when it quit in an instant. After several attempts to restart, I got a big backfire ( and scared the beejeesus outta me :shock: ) After that I checked all the spark plug and ignition wires and everything seemed to be in order. I attempted another start and got another backfire :shock: :shock: . I started to check the rotor and it felt very loose. So I left the ignition off and took off the distributor cap and cranked the engine. I saw the rotor trip around and the firing order looked to be 1,3,4,2,2,2,2,2,2,2..... .

So I guess the mag is shot? Will I need a new/rebuilt mag, or can I get a replacement for the rotor gear? I've taken apart everthing on the tractor but this piece. But to be honest, messing with the mag concerns me. Even though it's been converted to a battery ignition, I really don't want a shock.
dennis
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Postby Donny M » Sun Feb 05, 2006 11:25 pm

It may be that teeth on the rotor are stripped. Pull the rotor and give it a look see. You won't get shocked if the battery is disconnected. Well, at least not too bad :lol: :lol: Really since it's been converted, you won't get shocked if you just leave the ignition switch in the off position.
8)

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magneto rotor gear teeth

Postby JoeKansas » Mon Feb 06, 2006 7:55 am

What will be shocking is trying to find a replacement rotor for that magneto. These particular bakelite rotors have the gear teeth as part of the rotor assembly, and the rotors are a scarce commodity.
The only reason I know this is I thought about replacing one recently on a mag I was fixing, and was basically told there are none to be had- That I better take care of the one I had.........
A possible fix- if some teeth are stripped off- would be to fill in the spot with the missing teeth with some JB weld type epoxy stuff, let it harden, and the try to file (or dremel tool grind) a tooth profile back into the material.
That is the only temporary fix I can think of. Good luck!

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Go to a Case dealer, I

Postby countershaft » Mon Feb 06, 2006 8:52 am

replaced mine last summer, both gears from the Farmall ( Case) dealership. A little "bitty" though.
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John *.?-!.* cub owner
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Postby John *.?-!.* cub owner » Mon Feb 06, 2006 8:54 am

The rotors are still available from dealers (if you have one that is willing to bother with special orders). part number 351692R91. Also the drive pinion which turns the rotor sometimes wears down to the point it can damage the rotor, it is part number 251526R1. If your local dealer won't order them check with http://www.cngco.com or http://www.casetractorparts.com. One other note, get a cap form the delaer. the universal replacements you get form parts places are distibutor caps, not magneto caps, and they sometimes will break a rotor. I learned that lesson the hard way.
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Postby dennnis79 » Mon Feb 06, 2006 9:16 am

I had a brand new rotor and cap that I got from the dealer in Hamel. That rotor for the mag wasn't cheap :shock: . Will I have to disassemble the whole mag to change the pinion rotor?
dennis

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and another thing.....

Postby JoeKansas » Mon Feb 06, 2006 9:22 am

.....you are talking about parts for the J-4 mag, right? I didn't check with an IH dealer, maybe that's what my problem was. :oops:
What my mag is off of is a power unit- no sure which engine style it is, exactly- besides IH. I really never knew there were different styles (C60, C63 or what ever).
The power unit originally had the right angle drive flat belt pulley. I used to use it to run a buzz saw, then quit that and took all that belt pulley stuff off and went straight out the back of the engine with a straight shaft. I use it to power a DC arc welding rig I made. It starts good with the hand crank, but I bought an electric starter and added it to it for ease of starting.
I will try to go get a picture for you guys to see. It uses 4 chrysler alternators- belt driven. If the engine had enough HP, it would put out about 240 amps cranked all the way up. But, it lacks a little oomph at full output. Good enough for what I use it for. It welds, thaws pipes, and jump starts vehicles. Those old Chrysler alternators are a dime a dozen, and the only things that wear out are brushes on the alternators (hardly ever) and V belts.
While I am here, I want to find out if there would be any interest in a engine block from a cub, along with the crank, the accompanying gears, lifters, springs, pistons w/rods, cam, and valves. No pan or head.
I bought this engine at an auction 10 years ago as a spare parts piece for my welder engine. I just disassembled it the other day and have sent the block off to be cleaned- so I can inspect it for defects.
I think the place I bought it from scavenged the head off of it, and that there was nothing wrong with the engine itself. It has standard bearings and the cylinders haven't been bored any. There was some surface rust in the cylinders, but that could be honed out.
When I get it back, and if you guys post any interest, I will probably put it in either this forums' "for sale" column, or on ebay.

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Postby Bigdog » Mon Feb 06, 2006 9:25 am

There is always someone looking for a good used block and innards. I know of someone right now looking for one. So there will be interest.
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Postby JoeKansas » Mon Feb 06, 2006 9:28 am

OK, I planned on getting the block back today, so I will look it over for any problem, and try and take a picture of it and all it's innards and see what you all think............
The only problem I can think of is that shipping will eat somebodys lunch. :arrow: The block weighs 105 pounds, empty.

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Postby George Willer » Mon Feb 06, 2006 11:04 am

JoeKansas wrote:OK, I planned on getting the block back today, so I will look it over for any problem, and try and take a picture of it and all it's innards and see what you all think............
The only problem I can think of is that shipping will eat somebodys lunch. :arrow: The block weighs 105 pounds, empty.


Joe, I'm sure someone here will want it... there's a recurring problem that many think can be permanently cured by welding. I disagree. This will help you find the critical area. A crack on the other side is possible, but less likely. I've seen both.

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Postby dennnis79 » Mon Feb 06, 2006 11:04 am

I just went out and pulled the rotor off ( I love working at home :D ) and it looks like a few teeth on the rotot are chewed off. I'll go fetch a new one, but what would cause this? The rotor pinion does not have any play in it at all. Neither does the main mag shaft.

And as long as the subject is drifting to old blocks, any suggstions on what to do with a block that needs a .020 ovebore and has a couple of reapirs for freeze burst damage? A boat anchor comes to mind, but I've already got 2 anchors in my big nice fiberglass boat and it would proably sink my 10' john boat :( .
dennis

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Postby Bigdog » Mon Feb 06, 2006 11:08 am

They make dandy doorstops. Or, at today's scrap prices, turn it into pocket change.
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Postby dennnis79 » Mon Feb 06, 2006 3:16 pm

Well I was lucky that the dealer had the rotor in stock.

But it bothers me that this rotor and cap had less that 20 hours on them. Here is what the damaged rotor looks like.
Image

Does the pinion gear look worn here?
Image
Image

What about all that skooge in there? Should all that be cleaned out? What if any lube should be used in there?

And I tried in vain to get the felt, PN 251534R1 item 3 here Group 12 - Power - Page 22, but it was discontinued. I saw no sign of felt under the rotor retainer. Could not having that felt cause rotor gear damage?
dennis

"Hey, I didn't get a harumpf outta that guy!"

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Postby JoeKansas » Mon Feb 06, 2006 3:17 pm

If the freeze split isn't affecting the cylinders, just the outside, I'd save it.

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Nails and sucih

Postby allenlook » Mon Feb 06, 2006 4:15 pm

I'm the same guy from the recent thread that didn't realize until my early thirties that they sell NEW, STRAIGHT nails, not even pounded into a board yet! And here I'd been pulling them out all this time, straightening them out, and reusing them...

I've got a growing pile of casting with cracks in them because I simply can't bear to part with something that heavy - it's gotta be good for something! Or reparable someday vs. the price of ever-disappearing old parts.

So far I have one front bolster, one head, and soon I'll add a final drive to the pile... Maybe after a while I will have enough parts to build what I can call a "Cub Crack Baby", entirely out of cracked castings :D
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