Crankshaft Pulley Removal (In-Process)

[darkmuncan81]

Thanks Raymond, haven't pulled an oil seal before on any vehicle before so this was helpful. Didn't realize it was a fairly straightforward operation. Was also throwing me off because the seal I received varied slightly in appearance from what I'm guessing was the original. Was making me question how it was supposed to come out.

[darkmuncan81]

Thanks Raymond, have not removed oil seal before personally so this confirms it's fairly straightforward - can definitely tell this one is stuck in there good but it's likely the original equipment from what I can tell.

[Don McCombs]

It’s likely the new seal is thinner than the old one. Follow the suggestions and you will get it out.

[darkmuncan81]

Thanks Don.

Sorry to the forum admins for the double post above, didn't realize my post had gone to a second page...couldn't delete it.

[Glen]

haven't pulled an oil seal before on any vehicle

Hi,
If the oil seal is tight and won't come out, they have said on here to drill 2 small holes in it, straight across from each other, and use an automotive dent puller, with a sliding weight on it, to pull the seal out. Go from one hole to the other, so the seal is pulled evenly, and gradually pull the seal out.

Be sure to put the new seal in with the seal lip facing toward the engine. Seals don't seal well installed backwards.
If the pulley is rough where the seal runs, use fine sandpaper and sand it smooth. Wipe off all sanding with a clean rag.
If there is a groove worn in the pulley where the seal runs, it may need a wear sleeve put on the pulley.
The sleeve makes a flat surface for the seal to run on.
Below is a listing at TM Tractor Parts for a seal with sleeve. You can look at the picture.
http://www.tmtractor.com/new/en/472fp.htm

Don't hammer directly on an oil seal, it can dent the seal. Use some flat metal to cover the seal, and hammer on that.
The crankshaft sticking out of the engine makes it harder to put the seal in.
You would need to cut a hole in flat metal so it will go on the crankshaft, to where the seal is.
A cutting torch would do that.
Put oil on the seal rubber, and pulley where the seal runs, when you put the pulley on.

[darkmuncan81]

Thank you Glen, that is very helpful information!

[darkmuncan81]

Wanted to post follow up to say thanks again for all the help. Oil seal successfully replaced and pulley reinstalled without incident thanks to all the helpful tips given in this post.
While I had front split I also replaced the governor spring, radiator hoses, and belts. Have to reattach front end but hopefully in the clear. Thanks again everyone!

[darkmuncan81]

To help anyone else who may come across this post, here is a brief summary of how I did this. These steps presume upon already having the Cub split at the front and the belts removed.

To remove pulley:

-Used the 3” bearing separator behind the pulley from this kit on Amazon:
(KOOPOOL Bearing Puller 12-Piece, Gear Puller Set, Wheel Bearing Removal Tool, Wheel Hub Axle Puller Set, Bearing Separator with 2’’ and 3’’ Bearing Separator Jaws https://a.co/d/6LZIgnT)
-Used the 6” 2 Jaw puller from this kit at Harbor Freight:
(https://www.harborfreight.com/two-jaw-p ... 64305.html) to pull on the bearing separator.
-Used a Grade 8 1/2” x 5” Bolt which I rounded the head on my grinder to be small enough to fit through the pulley opening and then added anti-seize and screwed this through the pulley into the crankshaft. Also made a dimple in the middle of the head with a drill so the puller had a place to push off.

To put in the oil seal:

-After oiling the seal, I set it evenly inside the opening and used a 5” length of 2” pvc pipe and a rubber mallet to tap it in evenly around the crankshaft.

To reattach pulley:

I put a little grease on the crankshaft, lined up the key and started the pulley on the crankshaft by hand. Then I threaded a 1/2” piece of all-thread with anti-siege through the pulley and into crankshaft. Then I put on this 3” square washer from McMaster-Carr (https://www.mcmaster.com/product/91133A150) followed by a couple large fender washers on the threaded rod next with a little grease between them and finally a grade 8 1/2” nut.
Then it was just elbow grease until it seated up against the pinion gear.

I didn’t need to use heat or hammer/wood block to reseat the pulley. Big thanks to all the tips on this forum that helped me figure out this convoluted process.