Fan pulley question

[CaperKen]

Sorry, I've asked this question before but without success on my end.

How do I get that fan pulley lubrication screw out of the housing? The screw rotates but never works its way out of the hole. The manual diagram seems to indicate that there might be an o-ring on the screw shaft inside the housing.

I've tried to unscrew it while trying to jimmy a razor blade under the screw head but there is not enough room. I'm stumped and would appreciate the wisdom of the forum.

[Bob McCarty]

There is a short stand tube that the screw threads into. I would guess that your stand tube has detached from the inside of the hub and rotates when you try and turn the screw. You might try grabbing the screw head with some vise grips and pull out as you try to turn it.

[Glen]

Hi,
I don't think it is an o ring on the screw, it is a seal ring though, or gasket the Cub owner's manual calls it. The gasket is under the screw head when the screw is in place in the hub.
Below is a page from the 1947 Cub owner's manual, so you can see the parts Bob said above.
The standpipe has threads in it.
https://farmallcub.com/rudi_cub/www.cle ... age-28.jpg

If the standpipe has broken loose inside the hub, you might need to buy a used fan hub assembly somewhere, and replace the assembly.
J P Tractor Salvage at the bottom of the page probably has them.
Nowadays other companies make replacement fan assemblies with sealed bearings.
Or maybe you can repair the one you have somehow, if needed.
If you buy one, there are 2 different sizes of generator drive pulleys on the fan hub, depending on the year of the Cub. IH changed the pulley sizes in the early 1950's.
A 1948 Cub would have the smaller gen drive pulley.
Below are pics from TM Tractor Parts of the pulleys.

[Jim Becker]

If the problem is the stand tube broken loose from the hub, you should be able to remove the fan assembly, take the screws that hold the assembly together out, and separate the main pieces. Then hold the stand tube with a pair of pliers while you remove the screw. You should then be able to reattach the tube. Never saw this problem, so unsure how to reattach. Peen the end? weld/braze? JB-Weld? Whatever choice, be sure the resulting joint is oil-tight.

[CaperKen]

Thanks for the suggestions.

I've tried pulling the screw up with vise grips but the screw head is such that it's hard to get much purchase and the vise grips slide off. And, it feels as if the gasket on the screw does not want to release the screw.

I have a spare assembly that has the same problem as the one that's on the Cub.

I'll try taking the screws out of the fan bearing cap on the spare hub and investigate this problem further, especially the stand pipe issue.

Has anyone replaced the oil retaining screw with a rubber plug or something else that will stay engaged but be easy to remove for oiling?

[CaperKen]

I've taken apart the fan hub assembly and found that the standpipe does rotate as the oiling screw is turned. So, it must be broken from the hub.

After using penetrating oil and heat, I still can't extract the screw from the standpipe. I hold the standpipe with pliers and try to turn the screw but there is no movement.

I'm thinking of drilling out down the middle of the screw and grinding off the screw head. Then, removing more and more of the center of the screw until it separates from the standpipe. Does that seem reasonable? Any help on getting the screw out of the standpipe will be greatly appreciated.

[Glen]

Hi,
Good that you found what is wrong with it.
I've never seen one with the screw that was hard to get out.
Maybe try deepening the screwdriver slot in the screw some with a hack saw, so the screwdriver bit doesn't slip.
Hold the standpipe really tight if you can, use a vise grip pliers, or a vise grip with the long jaws, to reach in farther, if needed.
Then use a screwdriver bit with a 3/8" ratchet that fits the screw head really well, so it doesn't slip, and see if the screw will turn. Maybe you have done that already.

[CaperKen]

I have been able to extract the oiling screw from the standpipe. This took two men. Cutting the screw slot deeper did help -- Thanks, Glen. I had this problem on the fan hub that I recently took off of my Cub and also on a spare fan assembly that I had. Have others had this problem?

The standpipe is not broken from the hub, but it spins when the screw is turned or when the standpipe is turned from the inside of the hub.

It seems as though the standpipe was press-fitted to the hub with a flange ring inside the hub and a smaller rim on the outside of the hub.

Oiling_standpipe_outside.jpg (13.63 KiB) Viewed 313 times

How can I secure the standpipe so that it won't spin. Can I use JB Weld? If so, should it be used on the inside of the hub or on the outside? If I should not use JB Weld, what else can be used. Is simple soldering good enough or is silver soldering needed?

[Rick Spivey]

I've never taken one of these apart so I don't have any idea what all is inside, and how much room there is for a remedy. But based on just the picture you show, I would be tempted to use a small wire-feed mig welder and put two tack welds on either two sides of the inside flange shown on the pipe. Again, assuming that won't interfere with anything. Apparently that pipe was placed in the hub and the outer flange was spread open and downward onto the hub; you coukd try peening it with a tapered punch, but I think the weld would be permanent, and that it is doubtful you could peen it tight enough not to loosen again.

[Glen]

Good that you got the screw out of the hub.
Thanks for the up close pictures.
I would think the silver soldering would be a good way to repair the standpipe. Clean it really well with solvent, or something that removes oil, dry it, then sand it with fine sandpaper so the area is shiny metal. I would solder it on the inside of the hub.
Jim B. said above that it has to be able to hold oil without leaking. The soldering all the way around the standpipe should hold oil.
I don't know if you looked, check for wear in the bearing, when it is slipped together, it should have no noticeable wear or play sideways.

[Don McCombs]

Is there enough room inside for a tack weld without interfering with anything?

[CaperKen]

I don't think it can be welded. There is very little room inside the hub. If possible, it might require an expert welder, which I am not. Plus, I don't have any welding equipment.

It seems like my options are to solder or use JB Weld or buy a new one, which I don't want to do. Would plain soldering work or is silver soldering necessary (I don't have that material)?

[Gary Dotson]

I think ordinary solder should should hold up okay, solder it all the way around, then don’t overtighten the screw. The screw should have a gasket on it.

[staninlowerAL]

Take a look and see if you have enough access room to drill a small hole from the outside so that it exits inside the flange on the inside of the hub then use a small diameter roll pin to close the hole and keep the standpipe from spinning. A dab of JB Weld should seal any opening when you are finished. JMHO Stan

[CaperKen]

Interesting idea.