Pretty sure its the switch but thoughts

[ShawnAgne]

When I converted the Cub I rewired it all and even before then if it sat for a couple months it would be dead. So would the culprit possibly be that the switch is bad? I've never blown out the electronic ignition which happens if you leave the switch on and not running. But thought is, there is just a very slow trickle going through the switch? Any ideas where to check? Don't feel like tearing it all apart but wouln't hurt my feelings to be able to fix it.

[Eugene]

Ignition off, disconnect the battery cable at the starter. Check for voltage between the battery cable and elec line going to amp meter and ignition switch. Also check for amp draw.

Next check at alternator between bat terminal and line to amp gauge. Check here for amp draw. A single wire alternator will have a draw in the milliamps.

Both checks should narrow down the amp draw/problem location.

[Matt Kirsch]

Lights and charging system can both draw down the battery with the switch off.

Another way to test if you have a draw is to disconnect the "hot" cable to the battery, and tap it on the post. If you see a spark something is drawing on the battery. You can also connect a test light or even a simple 12V bulb between the hot post of the battery and the cable. If the light lights you've got a draw. You might also see the ammeter twitch as you connect and disconnect the battery. People poo-poo the ammeter and try to say voltmeters are better, but a voltmeter won't tell you if you have a parasitic draw.

No spark, no light, no draw. Probably a bad battery.

You can eliminate the lights if you wired them through the fuse by removing the fuse.

[Eugene]

People poo-poo the ammeter and try to say voltmeters are better, but a voltmeter won't tell you if you have a parasitic draw.

A parasitic draw is comprised of both a voltage and amperage.

Probably a bad battery.

Voltage drop test.

The testing sequence I listed eliminated or confirmed the starter as the problem. Check all visible wiring and conduct the simple tests before you have to remove the hood/gas tank.

Electron flow is from negative to positive. So, where is the problem; wiring or an appliance?

[Greenthumbfarms]

People poo-poo the ammeter and try to say voltmeters are better, but a voltmeter won't tell you if you have a parasitic draw.

A parasitic draw is comprised of both a voltage and amperage.

Probably a bad battery.

Voltage drop test.

The testing sequence I listed eliminated or confirmed the starter as the problem. Check all visible wiring and conduct the simple tests before you have to remove the hood/gas tank.

Electron flow is from negative to positive. So, where is the problem; wiring or an appliance?

I always start by checking a ground, then would check for voltage drop/power at the fixture and work backwards